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Vented Loop

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  • followingsea2001
    Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That vent is crusted up
    Message 1 of 28 , Jan 3, 2008
    • 0 Attachment
      Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
      head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
      vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
      also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
      anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

      Martin Thomas
      Kokopelli
    • Dan Trainor
      Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So, I simply replaced mine with a
      Message 2 of 28 , Jan 4, 2008
      • 0 Attachment
        Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
         
        FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
         
        Dan
        Sabre 32
        Narragansett Bay

         
        On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@...> wrote:

        Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
        head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
        vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
        also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
        anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

        Martin Thomas
        Kokopelli




        --
        Dan
      • Peter Tollini
        So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :) ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in
        Message 3 of 28 , Jan 4, 2008
        • 0 Attachment
          So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
           
          ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
             - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
           
          Pete

           
          On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor <daniel.trainor@...
          > wrote:

          Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
           
          FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
           
          Dan
          Sabre 32
          Narragansett Bay

           
          On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@... > wrote:

          Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
          head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
          vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
          also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
          anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

          Martin Thomas
          Kokopelli




          --
          Dan


        • jack horner
          Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran
          Message 4 of 28 , Jan 4, 2008
          • 0 Attachment
            Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
            I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
             All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

            Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
            So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
             
            ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
               - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
             
            Pete

             
            On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor <daniel.trainor@ earthlink. net > wrote:
            Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
             
            FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
             
            Dan
            Sabre 32
            Narragansett Bay

             
            On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@earthlink. net > wrote:
            Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
            head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
            vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
            also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
            anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

            Martin Thomas
            Kokopelli




            --
            Dan



            Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

          • bruceheyman@cox.net
            Lee, Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that. Bruce
            Message 5 of 28 , Jan 4, 2008
            • 0 Attachment
              Lee,
              Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
              Bruce
              Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

              -----Original Message-----
              From: jack horner <captbluwater@...>

              Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
              To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


              Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
              I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
               All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

              Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:


              So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
               
              ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                 - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
               
              Pete

               
              On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor <daniel.trainor@ <mailto:daniel.trainor@...> earthlink.net > wrote:





              Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
               
              FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
               
              Dan
              Sabre 32
              Narragansett Bay

               
              On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@earthlink. <mailto:mnthomas@...> net > wrote:




              Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
              head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
              vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
              also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
              anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

              Martin Thomas
              Kokopelli




              --
              Dan







              ----------------
              Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51438/*http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs>
            • jack horner
              Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS I m about to
              Message 6 of 28 , Jan 5, 2008
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                Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                bruceheyman@... wrote:
                Lee,
                Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                Bruce
                Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                -----Original Message-----
                From: jack horner

                Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                 All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                Peter Tollini wrote:


                So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                 
                ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                   - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                 
                Pete

                 
                On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                 
                FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                 
                Dan
                Sabre 32
                Narragansett Bay

                 
                On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                Martin Thomas
                Kokopelli




                --
                Dan







                ----------------
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              • Grant Woodside
                Jack, I don t know if this is a good idea, but it worked for me. We had a Pearson 28-1 (featured in Good Old Boat this issue) with a Westerbeake 21 that was
                Message 7 of 28 , Jan 5, 2008
                • 0 Attachment
                  Jack,

                  I don't know if this is a good idea, but it worked for me. We had a
                  Pearson 28-1 (featured in Good Old Boat this issue) with a Westerbeake
                  21 that was raw water cooled. No heat exchanger. It would overheat.
                  Many mechanics tried to fix it without success.

                  One night I had a dream about how to fix it. I removed the impeller
                  from the water pump. I removed both the raw water intake and out-go.
                  Used a water hose in the out-go. All kinds of gunk was flushed out the
                  intake.

                  After the water ran clear, put the engine back together and it ran
                  fine.

                  Again, I don't know if this is a good idea and it was raw water cooled.

                  Grant

                  --- jack horner <captbluwater@...> wrote:

                  > Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and
                  > still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer
                  > all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was
                  > bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over
                  > all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I
                  > read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust
                  > and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                  > I think this is my problem. HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I
                  > bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the
                  > rust out after I knock out the plug !
                  > All ideas more than welcome and needed. Should be 72 here tomorrow
                  > in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks
                  > LEE/ SABRE 28 SANDPIPER 1982
                  >
                  > Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too
                  > late :)
                  >
                  > ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way
                  > others worked in oils or marble..
                  > - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                  >
                  > Pete
                  >
                  >
                  > On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor <daniel.trainor@... > wrote:
                  >
                  > Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going
                  > to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So, I simply
                  > replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able
                  > cap) - $25. I moved its location about a foot inward towards center
                  > of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with
                  > Sealand OrderSafe hose.
                  >
                  > FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the
                  > carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with
                  > heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you
                  > can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick
                  > enough).
                  >
                  > Dan
                  > Sabre 32
                  > Narragansett Bay
                  >
                  >
                  > On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@... > wrote:
                  > Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                  >
                  > head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top.
                  > That
                  > vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                  > also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out.
                  > Has
                  > anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?
                  >
                  > Martin Thomas
                  > Kokopelli
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > --
                  > Dan
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ---------------------------------
                  > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
                • bruceheyman@cox.net
                  Lee, I ve never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would look for a way to hook
                  Message 8 of 28 , Jan 5, 2008
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Lee,
                    I've never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would look for a way to hook up a garden hose to the cooling water input (after the water pump) to help flush the engine out once you get the plugs out. The plugs can probably be removed by driving a hole in them and then drive in a sheet metal screw and then pulling on it wit vice grips. Reinstalation can probably be done with a block of sacrificial wood and a hammer.
                    Don't know if you have much water flow but I remember an email along time ago where someone said they did not have much flow. They were messing around with their raw water strainer and found that when they lowered it to about the same level as the water pump the amount of cooling water flow went up dramatically.
                    Good luck!
                    Bruce
                    Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: jack horner <captbluwater@...>

                    Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:34:06
                    To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                    Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                    bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                    Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                    Bruce
                    Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: jack horner

                    Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                    To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                    Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                    I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                     All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                    Peter Tollini wrote:


                    So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                     
                    ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                       - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                     
                    Pete

                     
                    On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                    Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                     
                    FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                     
                    Dan
                    Sabre 32
                    Narragansett Bay

                     
                    On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                    Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                    head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                    vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                    also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                    anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                    Martin Thomas
                    Kokopelli




                    --
                    Dan







                    ----------------
                    Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


                    Yahoo! Groups Links






                    ----------------
                    Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51733/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ >
                  • Scott
                    Lee, Don t know if this will help, but here is what I used to do with my MD7A. I would take a large plastic tyrap (thick version about 24in long). I would
                    Message 9 of 28 , Jan 5, 2008
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Lee,
                        Don't know if this will help, but here is what I used to do with my MD7A. I would take a large plastic tyrap (thick version about 24in long). I would unscrew the drain-screw and ream out the rusted gunk by snaking the tyrap in thru that drain. The tyrap I had was the perfect diameter and just the right stiffness to do the work but I was also able to rotate it each time I pushed it back in with hopes that it would find a new path and a new pile of rust each time. I was amazed that everytime I pulled it out, another pile of gunk came with it. I actually had a collection of different size tyraps for these purposes. I would do the same thing with a smaller size tyrap at the thermostat housing. They worked perfect, they don't breakoff inside and don't get caught on anything. If you do knock off the freeze plugs, the tyrap would probably work there also..
                       
                      ps: at one point in my ownership, I pulled off the exhaust manifold and had a local place do an acid bath on the unit. Cleaned it up nice. But I never did anything but the tyrap method on the block.   
                       
                      Scott
                      '89 Targa 34 #387  

                      ----- Original Message ----
                      From: jack horner <captbluwater@...>
                      To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Friday, January 4, 2008 5:22:36 PM
                      Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                      Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                      I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                       All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                      Peter Tollini <pete@tollini. com> wrote:

                      So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                       
                      ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                         - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                       
                      Pete

                       
                      On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor <daniel.trainor@ earthlink. net > wrote:
                      Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                       
                      FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                       
                      Dan
                      Sabre 32
                      Narragansett Bay

                       
                      On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@earthlink. net > wrote:
                      Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                      head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                      vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                      also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                      anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                      Martin Thomas
                      Kokopelli




                      --
                      Dan



                      Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.




                      Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
                    • jack horner
                      Bruce, Yes I have drooped the level of the strainer last season , saw little increase in pressure but I m not changing it back. Its actually lower than the
                      Message 10 of 28 , Jan 6, 2008
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Bruce, Yes I have drooped the level of the strainer last season , saw little increase in pressure but I'm not changing it back. Its actually lower than the water pump.
                        Well I can figure out how to remove the top freeze plug but the one behind the
                         starter wheel with out removing it will be hard than how in gods name do you install a new one once your done the wash out !?
                         I even talked to the Volvo repair shop but there mechanic had never removed  them on a MD7A !  Just like all my ducks in a row before I open a can of worms.
                        Does anyone have any experience with freeze plugs ? Or removing rust shavings from the bottom of a Volvo MD7A ?
                        I changed oil yesterday in both the engine and trans. And took her out of the slip for a ride to heat the engine. Still have the problem of temp 200 when hot and SUDDENLY falling to 160 in one minute ! Baffles me !!    HELP>>>>!!!!   LEE

                        bruceheyman@... wrote:
                        Lee,
                        I've never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would look for a way to hook up a garden hose to the cooling water input (after the water pump) to help flush the engine out once you get the plugs out. The plugs can probably be removed by driving a hole in them and then drive in a sheet metal screw and then pulling on it wit vice grips. Reinstalation can probably be done with a block of sacrificial wood and a hammer.
                        Don't know if you have much water flow but I remember an email along time ago where someone said they did not have much flow. They were messing around with their raw water strainer and found that when they lowered it to about the same level as the water pump the amount of cooling water flow went up dramatically.
                        Good luck!
                        Bruce
                        Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                        -----Original Message-----
                        From: jack horner

                        Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:34:06
                        To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                        Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                        bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                        Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                        Bruce
                        Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                        -----Original Message-----
                        From: jack horner

                        Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                        To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                        Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                        I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                         All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                        Peter Tollini wrote:


                        So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                         
                        ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                           - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                         
                        Pete

                         
                        On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                        Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                         
                        FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                         
                        Dan
                        Sabre 32
                        Narragansett Bay

                         
                        On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                        Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                        head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                        vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                        also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                        anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                        Martin Thomas
                        Kokopelli




                        --
                        Dan







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                      • bruceheyman@cox.net
                        Lee, I had the exact same temperature cycling. As the engine became hotter and hotter the exhaust water flow would become less and less. At it s hottest it
                        Message 11 of 28 , Jan 6, 2008
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Lee,
                          I had the exact same temperature cycling. As the engine became hotter and hotter the exhaust water flow would become less and less. At it's hottest it would be just spitting water out the transom and would be very loud. Then it would all of a sudden get significantly quieter, the water flow would increase and the engine temp would drop substantially. After I reconfigured the raw water intake so that it was easy to "pickle" the engine the water flow increased enough to prevent the temperature cycling. I also rebuilt the water pump.
                          Bruce

                          Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: jack horner <captbluwater@...>

                          Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 06:38:05
                          To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                          Bruce, Yes I have drooped the level of the strainer last season , saw little increase in pressure but I'm not changing it back. Its actually lower than the water pump.
                          Well I can figure out how to remove the top freeze plug but the one behind the
                           starter wheel with out removing it will be hard than how in gods name do you install a new one once your done the wash out !?
                           I even talked to the Volvo repair shop but there mechanic had never removed  them on a MD7A !  Just like all my ducks in a row before I open a can of worms.
                          Does anyone have any experience with freeze plugs ? Or removing rust shavings from the bottom of a Volvo MD7A ?
                          I changed oil yesterday in both the engine and trans. And took her out of the slip for a ride to heat the engine. Still have the problem of temp 200 when hot and SUDDENLY falling to 160 in one minute ! Baffles me !!    HELP>>>>!!!!   LEE

                          bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                          I've never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would look for a way to hook up a garden hose to the cooling water input (after the water pump) to help flush the engine out once you get the plugs out. The plugs can probably be removed by driving a hole in them and then drive in a sheet metal screw and then pulling on it wit vice grips. Reinstalation can probably be done with a block of sacrificial wood and a hammer.
                          Don't know if you have much water flow but I remember an email along time ago where someone said they did not have much flow. They were messing around with their raw water strainer and found that when they lowered it to about the same level as the water pump the amount of cooling water flow went up dramatically.
                          Good luck!
                          Bruce
                          Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: jack horner

                          Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:34:06
                          To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                          Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                          bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                          Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                          Bruce
                          Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: jack horner

                          Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                          To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                          Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                          I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                           All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                          Peter Tollini wrote:


                          So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                           
                          ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                             - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                           
                          Pete

                           
                          On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                          Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                           
                          FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                           
                          Dan
                          Sabre 32
                          Narragansett Bay

                           
                          On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                          Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                          head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                          vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                          also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                          anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                          Martin Thomas
                          Kokopelli




                          --
                          Dan







                          ----------------
                          Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


                          Yahoo! Groups Links






                          ----------------
                          Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.


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                        • Dave Lochner
                          Lee, While you re checking things, check the gaskets on the raw water filter. There is a cork gasket on the top and bottom of the glass. When they begin to
                          Message 12 of 28 , Jan 6, 2008
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Lee,

                            While you're checking things, check the gaskets on the raw water
                            filter. There is a cork gasket on the top and bottom of the glass.
                            When they begin to deteriorate water flow can be disrupted as air will
                            leak in to the system and weaken the water pump's ability to suck
                            water. The fix is about as cheap as you can get, go to the Auto parts
                            store and buy some cork gasket material (about $5) and cut new
                            gaskets. You'll have enough gasket material left over to effect the
                            same repair on the next 10 boats you own.

                            Dave


                            On Jan 6, 2008, at 9:53 AM, bruceheyman@... wrote:

                            > Lee,
                            > I had the exact same temperature cycling. As the engine became
                            > hotter and hotter the exhaust water flow would become less and
                            > less. At it's hottest it would be just spitting water out the
                            > transom and would be very loud. Then it would all of a sudden get
                            > significantly quieter, the water flow would increase and the engine
                            > temp would drop substantially. After I reconfigured the raw water
                            > intake so that it was easy to "pickle" the engine the water flow
                            > increased enough to prevent the temperature cycling. I also rebuilt
                            > the water pump.
                            > Bruce
                            >
                            > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
                            >
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: jack horner <captbluwater@...>
                            >
                            > Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 06:38:05
                            > To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                            > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT
                            >
                            >
                            > Bruce, Yes I have drooped the level of the strainer last season ,
                            > saw little increase in pressure but I'm not changing it back. Its
                            > actually lower than the water pump.
                            > Well I can figure out how to remove the top freeze plug but the one
                            > behind the
                            > starter wheel with out removing it will be hard than how in gods
                            > name do you install a new one once your done the wash out !?
                            > I even talked to the Volvo repair shop but there mechanic had never
                            > removed them on a MD7A ! Just like all my ducks in a row before I
                            > open a can of worms.
                            > Does anyone have any experience with freeze plugs ? Or removing rust
                            > shavings from the bottom of a Volvo MD7A ?
                            > I changed oil yesterday in both the engine and trans. And took her
                            > out of the slip for a ride to heat the engine. Still have the
                            > problem of temp 200 when hot and SUDDENLY falling to 160 in one
                            > minute ! Baffles me !! HELP>>>>!!!! LEE
                            >
                            > bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                            > I've never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there
                            > removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would
                            > look for a way to hook up a garden hose to the cooling water input
                            > (after the water pump) to help flush the engine out once you get the
                            > plugs out. The plugs can probably be removed by driving a hole in
                            > them and then drive in a sheet metal screw and then pulling on it
                            > wit vice grips. Reinstalation can probably be done with a block of
                            > sacrificial wood and a hammer.
                            > Don't know if you have much water flow but I remember an email along
                            > time ago where someone said they did not have much flow. They were
                            > messing around with their raw water strainer and found that when
                            > they lowered it to about the same level as the water pump the amount
                            > of cooling water flow went up dramatically.
                            > Good luck!
                            > Bruce
                            > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
                            >
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: jack horner
                            >
                            > Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:34:06
                            > To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                            > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT
                            >
                            >
                            > Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a
                            > pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE
                            > FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to
                            > expect ! Help !!!!! Lee/ Fla S-28/ 82
                            >
                            > bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                            > Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point?
                            > I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I
                            > did that.
                            > Bruce
                            > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
                            >
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: jack horner
                            >
                            > Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                            > To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                            > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT
                            >
                            >
                            > Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and
                            > still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer
                            > all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was
                            > bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over
                            > all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I
                            > read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust
                            > and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                            > I think this is my problem. HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I
                            > bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the
                            > rust out after I knock out the plug !
                            > All ideas more than welcome and needed. Should be 72 here tomorrow
                            > in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks
                            > LEE/ SABRE 28 SANDPIPER 1982
                            >
                            > Peter Tollini wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            > So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too
                            > late :)
                            >
                            > ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way
                            > others worked in oils or marble..
                            > - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                            >
                            > Pete
                            >
                            >
                            > On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going
                            > to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So, I simply
                            > replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able
                            > cap) - $25. I moved its location about a foot inward towards center
                            > of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with
                            > Sealand OrderSafe hose.
                            >
                            > FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the
                            > carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with
                            > heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you
                            > can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick
                            > enough).
                            >
                            > Dan
                            > Sabre 32
                            > Narragansett Bay
                            >
                            >
                            > On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                            > head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                            > vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                            > also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                            > anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?
                            >
                            > Martin Thomas
                            > Kokopelli
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > --
                            > Dan
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > ----------------
                            > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
                            >
                            >
                            > Yahoo! Groups Links
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > ----------------
                            > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.
                            > Try it now.
                            >
                            >
                            > Yahoo! Groups Links
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > ----------------
                            > Looking for last minute shopping deals?
                            > Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51734/*http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
                            > >
                            >
                            >
                            > Yahoo! Groups Links
                            >
                            >
                            >
                          • Ed Burke
                            The temp cycling sounds like a sticky thermostat to me. You could try removing the thermostat completely for a test and see if it stays cool or continues to
                            Message 13 of 28 , Jan 6, 2008
                            • 0 Attachment
                              The temp cycling sounds like a sticky thermostat to me.  You could try removing the thermostat completely for a test and see if it stays cool or continues to heat and cool.
                               
                                          Ed
                               
                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of jack horner
                              Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 9:38 AM
                              To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                              Bruce, Yes I have drooped the level of the strainer last season , saw little increase in pressure but I'm not changing it back. Its actually lower than the water pump.
                              Well I can figure out how to remove the top freeze plug but the one behind the
                               starter wheel with out removing it will be hard than how in gods name do you install a new one once your done the wash out !?
                               I even talked to the Volvo repair shop but there mechanic had never removed  them on a MD7A !  Just like all my ducks in a row before I open a can of worms.
                              Does anyone have any experience with freeze plugs ? Or removing rust shavings from the bottom of a Volvo MD7A ?
                              I changed oil yesterday in both the engine and trans. And took her out of the slip for a ride to heat the engine. Still have the problem of temp 200 when hot and SUDDENLY falling to 160 in one minute ! Baffles me !!    HELP>>>>!!!!   LEE

                              bruceheyman@ cox.net wrote:

                              Lee,
                              I've never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would look for a way to hook up a garden hose to the cooling water input (after the water pump) to help flush the engine out once you get the plugs out. The plugs can probably be removed by driving a hole in them and then drive in a sheet metal screw and then pulling on it wit vice grips. Reinstalation can probably be done with a block of sacrificial wood and a hammer.
                              Don't know if you have much water flow but I remember an email along time ago where someone said they did not have much flow. They were messing around with their raw water strainer and found that when they lowered it to about the same level as the water pump the amount of cooling water flow went up dramatically.
                              Good luck!
                              Bruce
                              Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: jack horner

                              Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:34:06
                              To:Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                              Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                              Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                              bruceheyman@ cox.net wrote: Lee,
                              Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                              Bruce
                              Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: jack horner

                              Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                              To:Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                              Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                              Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                              I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                               All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                              Peter Tollini wrote:


                              So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                               
                              ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                                 - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                               
                              Pete

                               
                              On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                              Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                               
                              FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                               
                              Dan
                              Sabre 32
                              Narragansett Bay

                               
                              On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                              Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                              head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                              vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                              also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                              anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                              Martin Thomas
                              Kokopelli




                              --
                              Dan







                              ------------ ----
                              Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


                              Yahoo! Groups Links






                              ------------ ----
                              Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.


                              Yahoo! Groups Links

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                            • Bob Burns
                              Jack- a couple of thoughts before you pull/break the plugs, my engine had a petcock drain for the block. I would open that and see what kind of flow there is.
                              Message 14 of 28 , Jan 6, 2008
                              • 0 Attachment

                                Jack- a couple of thoughts before you pull/break the plugs, my engine had a petcock drain for the block. I would open that and see what kind of flow there is. You may also be able to remove the petcock unit from the block and then probe/ look inside the block to see what kind of rust build up is in there. Also, have you cleaned out the intake seacock so there’s absolutely no blockage? It seems very weird that after all you’ve done it would still be running hot,,good luck! There should be a nautical version of the Profanisaurus for stuff like this.

                                 

                                Bob

                                Former S28 owner

                                 

                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jack horner
                                Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 8:34 AM
                                To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                                 

                                Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                                bruceheyman@ cox.net wrote:

                                Lee,
                                Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                                Bruce
                                Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: jack horner

                                Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                                To:Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                                Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                                I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                                 All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                                Peter Tollini wrote:


                                So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                                 
                                ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                                   - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                                 
                                Pete

                                 
                                On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                                Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                                 
                                FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                                 
                                Dan
                                Sabre 32
                                Narragansett Bay

                                 
                                On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                                Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                                head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                                vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                                also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                                anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                                Martin Thomas
                                Kokopelli




                                --
                                Dan







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                              • ice_cold_beer_ahhh
                                Another thing to consider... I assume this is a fresh water cooled set up. Make sure the heat exchanger is not clogged. You can run the raw water through the
                                Message 15 of 28 , Jan 6, 2008
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  Another thing to consider...
                                  I assume this is a fresh water cooled set up. Make sure the heat
                                  exchanger is not clogged. You can run the raw water through the
                                  engine block thereby bypassing the heat exchanger as a test.

                                  Jim


                                  --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, bruceheyman@... wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Lee,
                                  > Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection
                                  point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently
                                  after I did that.
                                  > Bruce
                                  > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
                                  >
                                  > -----Original Message-----
                                  > From: jack horner <captbluwater@...>
                                  >
                                  > Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                                  > To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                  > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and
                                  still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer
                                  all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was
                                  bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over
                                  all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I
                                  read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust
                                  and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                                  > I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ?
                                  I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get
                                  the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                                  >  All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here
                                  tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all
                                  out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982
                                  >
                                  > Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris
                                  too late :)
                                  >  
                                  > ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way
                                  others worked in oils or marble..
                                  >    - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                                  >  
                                  > Pete
                                  >
                                  >  
                                  > On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor <daniel.trainor@ <mailto:daniel.trainor@...>
                                  earthlink.net > wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going
                                  to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply
                                  replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able
                                  cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center
                                  of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with
                                  Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                                  >  
                                  > FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the
                                  carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box
                                  with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way,
                                  you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick
                                  enough). 
                                  >  
                                  > Dan
                                  > Sabre 32
                                  > Narragansett Bay
                                  >
                                  >  
                                  > On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@earthlink.
                                  <mailto:mnthomas@...> net > wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from
                                  the
                                  > head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top.
                                  That
                                  > vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                                  > also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out.
                                  Has
                                  > anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?
                                  >
                                  > Martin Thomas
                                  > Kokopelli
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > --
                                  > Dan
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > ----------------
                                  > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
                                  <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51438/*http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs>
                                  >
                                • bruceheyman@cox.net
                                  Believe it or not that is exactly what I thought. Took the thermostat out and it still temperature cycled. However it did take a little bit longer running at
                                  Message 16 of 28 , Jan 7, 2008
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Believe it or not that is exactly what I thought. Took the thermostat out and it still temperature cycled. However it did take a little bit longer running at RPMs b4 it started the cycling.
                                    Bruce
                                    Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                                    -----Original Message-----
                                    From: "Ed Burke" <merlin0038@...>

                                    Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 12:31:14
                                    To:<Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
                                    Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                                    The temp cycling sounds like a sticky thermostat to me.  You could try removing the thermostat completely for a test and see if it stays cool or continues to heat and cool.
                                     
                                                Ed
                                     
                                    -----Original Message-----
                                    From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of jack horner
                                    Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 9:38 AM
                                    To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT



                                    Bruce, Yes I have drooped the level of the strainer last season , saw little increase in pressure but I'm not changing it back. Its actually lower than the water pump.
                                    Well I can figure out how to remove the top freeze plug but the one behind the
                                     starter wheel with out removing it will be hard than how in gods name do you install a new one once your done the wash out !?
                                     I even talked to the Volvo repair shop but there mechanic had never removed  them on a MD7A !  Just like all my ducks in a row before I open a can of worms.
                                    Does anyone have any experience with freeze plugs ? Or removing rust shavings from the bottom of a Volvo MD7A ?
                                    I changed oil yesterday in both the engine and trans. And took her out of the slip for a ride to heat the engine. Still have the problem of temp 200 when hot and SUDDENLY falling to 160 in one minute ! Baffles me !!    HELP>>>>!!!!   LEE

                                    bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                                    I've never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would look for a way to hook up a garden hose to the cooling water input (after the water pump) to help flush the engine out once you get the plugs out. The plugs can probably be removed by driving a hole in them and then drive in a sheet metal screw and then pulling on it wit vice grips. Reinstalation can probably be done with a block of sacrificial wood and a hammer.
                                    Don't know if you have much water flow but I remember an email along time ago where someone said they did not have much flow. They were messing around with their raw water strainer and found that when they lowered it to about the same level as the water pump the amount of cooling water flow went up dramatically.
                                    Good luck!
                                    Bruce
                                    Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                                    -----Original Message-----
                                    From: jack horner

                                    Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:34:06
                                    To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                                    Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                                    bruceheyman@... wrote: Lee,
                                    Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                                    Bruce
                                    Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                                    -----Original Message-----
                                    From: jack horner

                                    Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                                    To:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                                    Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                                    I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                                     All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                                    Peter Tollini wrote:


                                    So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                                     
                                    ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                                       - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                                     
                                    Pete

                                     
                                    On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                                    Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                                     
                                    FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                                     
                                    Dan
                                    Sabre 32
                                    Narragansett Bay

                                     
                                    On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                                    Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                                    head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                                    vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                                    also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                                    anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                                    Martin Thomas
                                    Kokopelli




                                    --
                                    Dan







                                    ----------------
                                    Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


                                    Yahoo! Groups Links






                                    ----------------
                                    Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.


                                    Yahoo! Groups Links






                                    ----------------
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                                    them fast with Yahoo! Search. <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51734/*http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping>
                                  • jack horner
                                    Jim, My MD7A is 1982 RAW water cooled. I have tried to get a different thermostat and they VOLVO says thats the only on that will fit and marine auto stores
                                    Message 17 of 28 , Jan 7, 2008
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      Jim, My MD7A is 1982 RAW water cooled. I have tried to get a different thermostat and they  VOLVO says thats the only on that will fit and marine auto stores cross reference the thing to come up with the same deal !! 160- 180 degrees. Has any one changed the Therm to other than  the standard ? Its not a normal fit !!!! Yeah VOLVO !!!  lee/ 1982 Md7a sabre 28/ fla

                                      ice_cold_beer_ahhh <jmcgovern1@...> wrote:
                                      Another thing to consider...
                                      I assume this is a fresh water cooled set up. Make sure the heat
                                      exchanger is not clogged. You can run the raw water through the
                                      engine block thereby bypassing the heat exchanger as a test.

                                      Jim

                                      --- In Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com, bruceheyman@ ... wrote:
                                      >
                                      > Lee,
                                      > Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection
                                      point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently
                                      after I did that.
                                      > Bruce
                                      > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
                                      >
                                      > -----Original Message-----
                                      > From: jack horner <captbluwater@ ...>
                                      >
                                      > Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                                      > To:Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                      > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and
                                      still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer
                                      all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was
                                      bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over
                                      all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I
                                      read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust
                                      and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                                      > I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ?
                                      I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get
                                      the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                                      >  All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here
                                      tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all
                                      out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982
                                      >
                                      > Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris
                                      too late :)
                                      >  
                                      > ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way
                                      others worked in oils or marble..
                                      >    - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                                      >  
                                      > Pete
                                      >
                                      >  
                                      > On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor <daniel.trainor@ <mailto:daniel. trainor@. ..>
                                      earthlink.net > wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going
                                      to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply
                                      replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able
                                      cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center
                                      of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with
                                      Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                                      >  
                                      > FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the
                                      carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box
                                      with heatgun/ hairdryer  until all hose is relatively soft - this way,
                                      you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick
                                      enough). 
                                      >  
                                      > Dan
                                      > Sabre 32
                                      > Narragansett Bay
                                      >
                                      >  
                                      > On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 <mnthomas@earthlink .
                                      <mailto:mnthomas@ ...> net > wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from
                                      the
                                      > head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top.
                                      That
                                      > vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                                      > also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out.
                                      Has
                                      > anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?
                                      >
                                      > Martin Thomas
                                      > Kokopelli
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > --
                                      > Dan
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > ------------ ----
                                      > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
                                      <http://us.rd. yahoo.com/ evt=51438/ *http://www. yahoo.com/ r/hs>
                                      >



                                      Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

                                    • jack horner
                                      Ed, Tried and removed the therm and the housing will not seal with out the Thermostat. So I cut the center out of one of my thermostat and did not really run
                                      Message 18 of 28 , Jan 7, 2008
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        Ed, Tried and removed the therm and the housing will not seal with out the Thermostat. So I cut the center out of one of my thermostat and did not really run cooler.  The brain say thermostat but just is not so . I REPLACED THE WATER PUMP TOO . NO CHANGE. I RAN RHYEALIME RUST STUFF THROUGH NO MAJOR CHANGE.  DID REPLACE INTAKE HOSE AND CHECKED FLOW FROM THE THRU HULL OK ! TOOK THE WHOLE EXHAUSET SYSTEM APART  ALL PIPES BLASTED AND REPAINTED AND REINSTALLED ALL NEW GASKETS TOO !  RAW WATER COOLED 67 DEGEREES NOW IN FLA CAN BE 82-85 IN SUMMER.  THANKS  / LEE 1/7/8

                                        Ed Burke <merlin0038@...> wrote:
                                        The temp cycling sounds like a sticky thermostat to me.  You could try removing the thermostat completely for a test and see if it stays cool or continues to heat and cool.
                                         
                                                    Ed
                                         
                                        -----Original Message-----
                                        From: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:Sabresailbo at@yahoogroups. com]On Behalf Of jack horner
                                        Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 9:38 AM
                                        To: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                                        Bruce, Yes I have drooped the level of the strainer last season , saw little increase in pressure but I'm not changing it back. Its actually lower than the water pump.
                                        Well I can figure out how to remove the top freeze plug but the one behind the
                                         starter wheel with out removing it will be hard than how in gods name do you install a new one once your done the wash out !?
                                         I even talked to the Volvo repair shop but there mechanic had never removed  them on a MD7A !  Just like all my ducks in a row before I open a can of worms.
                                        Does anyone have any experience with freeze plugs ? Or removing rust shavings from the bottom of a Volvo MD7A ?
                                        I changed oil yesterday in both the engine and trans. And took her out of the slip for a ride to heat the engine. Still have the problem of temp 200 when hot and SUDDENLY falling to 160 in one minute ! Baffles me !!    HELP>>>>!!!!   LEE

                                        bruceheyman@ cox.net wrote:
                                        Lee,
                                        I've never knocked the plugs out so have no experience with there removal or replacement. Only thing I would offer is that I would look for a way to hook up a garden hose to the cooling water input (after the water pump) to help flush the engine out once you get the plugs out. The plugs can probably be removed by driving a hole in them and then drive in a sheet metal screw and then pulling on it wit vice grips. Reinstalation can probably be done with a block of sacrificial wood and a hammer.
                                        Don't know if you have much water flow but I remember an email along time ago where someone said they did not have much flow. They were messing around with their raw water strainer and found that when they lowered it to about the same level as the water pump the amount of cooling water flow went up dramatically.
                                        Good luck!
                                        Bruce
                                        Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                                        -----Original Message-----
                                        From: jack horner

                                        Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:34:06
                                        To:Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                                        Yes i reamed out this point 2 months ago. I still suspect rust in a pile at the bottom inside the engine. HAS ANYONE KNOCKED OUT THE FREEZE PLUGS> I'm about to do this and have no idea what to expect !  Help !!!!!    Lee/ Fla  S-28/ 82

                                        bruceheyman@ cox.net wrote: Lee,
                                        Have you run a drill bit through the exhaust/water injection point? I often found that my MD7A ran much cooler and consistently after I did that.
                                        Bruce
                                        Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                                        -----Original Message-----
                                        From: jack horner

                                        Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:22:36
                                        To:Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT


                                        Guys I have a MD7A that overheats ! I paid a guy 848 to fix it and still broken . I tried myself. I replaced the temp gage and sencer all wires to it too. Ran RYHMEa lyme thru it to clean out rust was bad. removed head all passages clogged. Did the head passages over all clear now . still the same 200 temp I have a laser temp gun ! I read someplace here that they can sometimes get clogged up with rust and the rust settles to the bottom of the engine in a pile !
                                        I think this is my problem.  HAS any one removed the KNOCK plugs ? I bought new ones this looks major to me . Have no idea how to get the rust out after I knock out the plug ! 
                                         All ideas more than welcome and needed.  Should be 72 here tomorrow in Florida so i will look it over and plan it all out ....Thanks  LEE/ SABRE  28 SANDPIPER 1982

                                        Peter Tollini wrote:


                                        So now you tell me! Only two years and a dog-eared Profanisauris too late :)
                                         
                                        ...my father was an artist. Only he worked in profanity the way others worked in oils or marble..
                                           - Jean Shepherd, as recounted in A Christmas Story
                                         
                                        Pete

                                         
                                        On 1/4/08, Dan Trainor earthlink.net > wrote:





                                        Yes, my Bronze loop was original and badly crusted up - I was going to clean up and reinstall - but it was too gross - So,  I simply replaced mine with a Forespar Marelon (with screw-off / replace-able cap) - $25.  I moved its location about a foot inward towards center of boat (easier to get at) and replaced all surrounding hoses with Sealand OrderSafe hose. 
                                         
                                        FYI, a trick I leaned from a friend is to keep the hose in the carboard shipping box it came in and heat up inside of box with heatgun/hairdryer until all hose is relatively soft - this way, you can fit / shape hose runs easily with less fuss (if your quick enough). 
                                         
                                        Dan
                                        Sabre 32
                                        Narragansett Bay

                                         
                                        On 1/3/08, followingsea2001 net > wrote:




                                        Our S34 II #291 has a vented loop in the overboard discharge from the
                                        head. The fitting is bronze and has a screwed on vent at the top. That
                                        vent is crusted up and though it still breaks the siphon effect, it
                                        also spits a fair amount of "water" when the toilet is pumped out. Has
                                        anyone replaced/serviced this fitting?

                                        Martin Thomas
                                        Kokopelli




                                        --
                                        Dan







                                        ------------ ----
                                        Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


                                        Yahoo! Groups Links






                                        ------------ ----
                                        Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.


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                                      • Carter Brey
                                        I second this suggestion of Dave s. I had a low exhaust water output problem during a cruise last summer-- just a thin spitting of water out the exhaust and
                                        Message 19 of 28 , Jan 7, 2008
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          I second this suggestion of Dave's. I had a low exhaust water output
                                          problem during a cruise last summer-- just a thin spitting of water out
                                          the exhaust and slightly elevated thermostat reading at cruise rpms
                                          which would redline at idle. I interrupted the trip and at anchor I tore
                                          apart the entire raw water circuit from intake seacock to pump to heat
                                          exchanger to injection elbow looking for a blockage, and found none. I
                                          was totally stumped and demoralized-- it seemed to defy logic. A
                                          mechanic finally pointed out to me that the dried out cork gasket in the
                                          raw water strainer was compromising the suction, resulting in reduced
                                          seawater intake. Banal, but there you are.

                                          Carter Brey
                                          S28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
                                          City Island, NY

                                          Dave Lochner wrote:
                                          > Lee,
                                          >
                                          > While you're checking things, check the gaskets on the raw water
                                          > filter. There is a cork gasket on the top and bottom of the glass.
                                          > When they begin to deteriorate water flow can be disrupted as air will
                                          > leak in to the system and weaken the water pump's ability to suck
                                          > water. The fix is about as cheap as you can get, go to the Auto parts
                                          > store and buy some cork gasket material (about $5) and cut new
                                          > gaskets. You'll have enough gasket material left over to effect the
                                          > same repair on the next 10 boats you own.
                                          >
                                          > Dave
                                          >
                                        • Ed Burke
                                          The cycling thing still gets me. It seems like when the engine heats up then the coolig system works and when it cools it starts to fail. I like the idea of a
                                          Message 20 of 28 , Jan 10, 2008
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            The cycling thing still gets me.  It seems like when the engine heats up then the coolig system works and when it cools it starts to fail.
                                             
                                            I like the idea of a gasket leaking and then sealing when heated.  I've had my cork gasket in the strainer fail also.  I suppose that this could be cooling and heating slightly as flow rates through it change.  It could also be a clamped hose or another gasket on the block which would temperature cycle more.  Clearly though a leaky gasket would suck air, reduce water flow and then allow the engine to heat up and then start the cycle again.
                                             
                                            So I like Carter's idea of an air leak.  Good luck.
                                             
                                                            Ed
                                             
                                             
                                            -----Original Message-----
                                            From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Carter Brey
                                            Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 9:33 AM
                                            To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                                            I second this suggestion of Dave's. I had a low exhaust water output
                                            problem during a cruise last summer-- just a thin spitting of water out
                                            the exhaust and slightly elevated thermostat reading at cruise rpms
                                            which would redline at idle. I interrupted the trip and at anchor I tore
                                            apart the entire raw water circuit from intake seacock to pump to heat
                                            exchanger to injection elbow looking for a blockage, and found none. I
                                            was totally stumped and demoralized- - it seemed to defy logic. A
                                            mechanic finally pointed out to me that the dried out cork gasket in the
                                            raw water strainer was compromising the suction, resulting in reduced
                                            seawater intake. Banal, but there you are.

                                            Carter Brey
                                            S28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
                                            City Island, NY

                                            Dave Lochner wrote:
                                            > Lee,
                                            >
                                            > While you're checking things, check the gaskets on the raw water
                                            > filter. There is a cork gasket on the top and bottom of the glass.
                                            > When they begin to deteriorate water flow can be disrupted as air will
                                            > leak in to the system and weaken the water pump's ability to suck
                                            > water. The fix is about as cheap as you can get, go to the Auto parts
                                            > store and buy some cork gasket material (about $5) and cut new
                                            > gaskets. You'll have enough gasket material left over to effect the
                                            > same repair on the next 10 boats you own.
                                            >
                                            > Dave
                                            >

                                          • jack horner
                                            Thanks, My top priority is to check the Strainer and replace gaskets needed or not . All the hoses are proper and new ! You guys are so great THANK YOU Lee/
                                            Message 21 of 28 , Jan 10, 2008
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                                              Thanks, My top priority is to check the Strainer and replace gaskets needed or not . All the hoses are proper and new !
                                               You guys are so great  THANK YOU  Lee/ Tarpon Springs  FLA

                                              Ed Burke <merlin0038@...> wrote:
                                              The cycling thing still gets me.  It seems like when the engine heats up then the coolig system works and when it cools it starts to fail.
                                               
                                              I like the idea of a gasket leaking and then sealing when heated.  I've had my cork gasket in the strainer fail also.  I suppose that this could be cooling and heating slightly as flow rates through it change.  It could also be a clamped hose or another gasket on the block which would temperature cycle more.  Clearly though a leaky gasket would suck air, reduce water flow and then allow the engine to heat up and then start the cycle again.
                                               
                                              So I like Carter's idea of an air leak.  Good luck.
                                               
                                                              Ed
                                               
                                               
                                              -----Original Message-----
                                              From: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:Sabresailbo at@yahoogroups. com]On Behalf Of Carter Brey
                                              Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 9:33 AM
                                              To: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                              Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                                              I second this suggestion of Dave's. I had a low exhaust water output
                                              problem during a cruise last summer-- just a thin spitting of water out
                                              the exhaust and slightly elevated thermostat reading at cruise rpms
                                              which would redline at idle. I interrupted the trip and at anchor I tore
                                              apart the entire raw water circuit from intake seacock to pump to heat
                                              exchanger to injection elbow looking for a blockage, and found none. I
                                              was totally stumped and demoralized- - it seemed to defy logic. A
                                              mechanic finally pointed out to me that the dried out cork gasket in the
                                              raw water strainer was compromising the suction, resulting in reduced
                                              seawater intake. Banal, but there you are.

                                              Carter Brey
                                              S28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
                                              City Island, NY

                                              Dave Lochner wrote:
                                              > Lee,
                                              >
                                              > While you're checking things, check the gaskets on the raw water
                                              > filter. There is a cork gasket on the top and bottom of the glass.
                                              > When they begin to deteriorate water flow can be disrupted as air will
                                              > leak in to the system and weaken the water pump's ability to suck
                                              > water. The fix is about as cheap as you can get, go to the Auto parts
                                              > store and buy some cork gasket material (about $5) and cut new
                                              > gaskets. You'll have enough gasket material left over to effect the
                                              > same repair on the next 10 boats you own.
                                              >
                                              > Dave
                                              >



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                                            • The Aviation Buff
                                              I recall something silly that happened with an old truck. Someone put the thermostat in backward. I would eventually open but never worked right,,, today it is
                                              Message 22 of 28 , Jan 10, 2008
                                              • 0 Attachment
                                                 
                                                I recall something silly that happened with an old truck. Someone put the thermostat in backward. I would eventually
                                                open but never worked right,,, today it is quite difficult to do that on vehicles. But older diesels?
                                                 
                                                FA

                                                ----- Original Message ----
                                                From: Ed Burke <merlin0038@...>
                                                To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                                Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 8:36:52 AM
                                                Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                                                The cycling thing still gets me.  It seems like when the engine heats up then the coolig system works and when it cools it starts to fail.
                                                 
                                                I like the idea of a gasket leaking and then sealing when heated.  I've had my cork gasket in the strainer fail also.  I suppose that this could be cooling and heating slightly as flow rates through it change.  It could also be a clamped hose or another gasket on the block which would temperature cycle more.  Clearly though a leaky gasket would suck air, reduce water flow and then allow the engine to heat up and then start the cycle again.
                                                 
                                                So I like Carter's idea of an air leak.  Good luck.
                                                 
                                                                Ed
                                                 
                                                 
                                                -----Original Message-----
                                                From: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:Sabresailbo at@yahoogroups. com]On Behalf Of Carter Brey
                                                Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 9:33 AM
                                                To: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                                Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] MD &7A NEW SUBJECT

                                                I second this suggestion of Dave's. I had a low exhaust water output
                                                problem during a cruise last summer-- just a thin spitting of water out
                                                the exhaust and slightly elevated thermostat reading at cruise rpms
                                                which would redline at idle. I interrupted the trip and at anchor I tore
                                                apart the entire raw water circuit from intake seacock to pump to heat
                                                exchanger to injection elbow looking for a blockage, and found none. I
                                                was totally stumped and demoralized- - it seemed to defy logic. A
                                                mechanic finally pointed out to me that the dried out cork gasket in the
                                                raw water strainer was compromising the suction, resulting in reduced
                                                seawater intake. Banal, but there you are.

                                                Carter Brey
                                                S28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
                                                City Island, NY

                                                Dave Lochner wrote:
                                                > Lee,
                                                >
                                                > While you're checking things, check the gaskets on the raw water
                                                > filter. There is a cork gasket on the top and bottom of the glass.
                                                > When they begin to deteriorate water flow can be disrupted as air will
                                                > leak in to the system and weaken the water pump's ability to suck
                                                > water. The fix is about as cheap as you can get, go to the Auto parts
                                                > store and buy some cork gasket material (about $5) and cut new
                                                > gaskets. You'll have enough gasket material left over to effect the
                                                > same repair on the next 10 boats you own.
                                                >
                                                > Dave
                                                >




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                                              • Finley, Mike
                                                Someone with a good memory could perhaps remind me of the size zincs required for the shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) ...and a 1992 vintage Maxprop
                                                Message 23 of 28 , Jan 13, 2008
                                                • 0 Attachment

                                                  Someone with a good memory could perhaps remind me of the size zincs required for the  shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) …and a 1992 vintage Maxprop

                                                   

                                                  Thanks

                                                  Mike

                                                  Divided Sky

                                                  S36/100

                                                • Dave Evans
                                                  The shaft on our 34-II with a 27A is 1 ; imagine that yours is the same. dge ... required for the shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) ...and a 1992 vintage
                                                  Message 24 of 28 , Jan 13, 2008
                                                  • 0 Attachment
                                                    The shaft on our 34-II with a 27A is 1"; imagine that yours is the
                                                    same.
                                                    dge

                                                    --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@...>
                                                    wrote:
                                                    >
                                                    > Someone with a good memory could perhaps remind me of the size zincs
                                                    required for the shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) ...and a 1992
                                                    vintage Maxprop
                                                    >
                                                    > Thanks
                                                    > Mike
                                                    > Divided Sky
                                                    > S36/100
                                                    >
                                                  • Dave Lochner
                                                    A good source for zincs, is www.boatzincs.com Dave
                                                    Message 25 of 28 , Jan 13, 2008
                                                    • 0 Attachment
                                                      A good source for zincs, is www.boatzincs.com

                                                      Dave


                                                      On Jan 13, 2008, at 11:44 AM, Dave Evans wrote:

                                                      The shaft on our 34-II with a 27A is 1"; imagine that yours is the 
                                                      same. 
                                                      dge

                                                      --- In Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com, "Finley, Mike" <mfinley@... > 
                                                      wrote:
                                                      >
                                                      > Someone with a good memory could perhaps remind me of the size zincs 
                                                      required for the shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) ...and a 1992 
                                                      vintage Maxprop
                                                      > 
                                                      > Thanks
                                                      > Mike
                                                      > Divided Sky
                                                      > S36/100
                                                      >


                                                    • Neubsr@aol.com
                                                      Mike - I have a Sabre 36, 1986 with the same W27 and a 3 blade Max Prop. The shaft size is 1 inch. Go to www.boatzincs.com to determine the right zinc for the
                                                      Message 26 of 28 , Jan 13, 2008
                                                      • 0 Attachment
                                                        Mike - I have a Sabre 36, 1986 with the same W27 and a 3 blade Max Prop. The shaft size is 1 inch. Go to www.boatzincs.com to determine the right zinc for the Max Prop. They have a very helpful guide for the Max Prop. Their prices are excellent as well as their service.  Where do you keep you 36. 
                                                         
                                                        Richard
                                                        Sabre 36  Seascape
                                                        Lake Ontario at RYC


                                                        -----Original Message-----
                                                        From: Finley, Mike <mfinley@...>
                                                        To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
                                                        Sent: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 6:23 am
                                                        Subject: [SabreSailboat] Zinc Size

                                                        Someone with a good memory could perhaps remind me of the size zincs required for the  shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) …and a 1992 vintage Maxprop
                                                         
                                                        Thanks
                                                        Mike
                                                        Divided Sky
                                                        S36/100

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                                                      • Finley, Mike
                                                        Richard My S36 is on the West River (Galesville, MD) around the middle of the Chesapeake Bay Thanks for the info - what size zinc do you use for your maxprop?
                                                        Message 27 of 28 , Jan 13, 2008
                                                        • 0 Attachment

                                                          Richard

                                                           

                                                          My S36 is on the West River (Galesville, MD) around the middle of the Chesapeake Bay

                                                           

                                                          Thanks for the info – what size zinc do you use for your maxprop?

                                                           

                                                          Thx

                                                          mike

                                                           


                                                          From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Neubsr@...
                                                          Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 3:08 PM
                                                          To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                                          Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Zinc Size

                                                           

                                                          Mike - I have a Sabre 36, 1986 with the same W27 and a 3 blade Max Prop. The shaft size is 1 inch. Go to www.boatzincs. com to determine the right zinc for the Max Prop. They have a very helpful guide for the Max Prop. Their prices are excellent as well as their service.  Where do you keep you 36. 

                                                           

                                                          Richard

                                                          Sabre 36  Seascape

                                                          Lake Ontario at RYC


                                                          -----Original Message-----
                                                          From: Finley, Mike <mfinley@prtm. com>
                                                          To: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com <Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com>
                                                          Sent: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 6:23 am
                                                          Subject: [SabreSailboat] Zinc Size

                                                          Someone with a good memory could perhaps remind me of the size zincs required for the  shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) …and a 1992 vintage Maxprop

                                                           

                                                          Thanks

                                                          Mike

                                                          Divided Sky

                                                          S36/100


                                                          More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail!

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                                                        • Neubsr@aol.com
                                                          Mike - I had to select the one that fit the design / shape of my Max Prop and year that it was built, not when I bought it. The shape of the zinc needed did
                                                          Message 28 of 28 , Jan 13, 2008
                                                          • 0 Attachment
                                                            Mike - I had to select the one that fit the design / shape of my Max Prop and year that it was built, not when I bought it. The shape of the zinc needed did change with the design changes of the Max Prop. The boatzinc web site does allow you to work through this decision process.
                                                             
                                                            Richard
                                                            Sabre 36 Seascape
                                                            Lake Ontario at RYC


                                                            -----Original Message-----
                                                            From: Finley, Mike <mfinley@...>
                                                            To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
                                                            Sent: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 4:19 pm
                                                            Subject: RE: [SabreSailboat] Zinc Size

                                                            Richard
                                                             
                                                            My S36 is on the West River (Galesville, MD) around the middle of the Chesapeake Bay
                                                             
                                                            Thanks for the info – what size zinc do you use for your maxprop?
                                                             
                                                            Thx
                                                            mike
                                                             

                                                            From: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:Sabresailbo at@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Neubsr@...
                                                            Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 3:08 PM
                                                            To: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
                                                            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Zinc Size
                                                             
                                                            Mike - I have a Sabre 36, 1986 with the same W27 and a 3 blade Max Prop. The shaft size is 1 inch. Go to www.boatzincs. com to determine the right zinc for the Max Prop. They have a very helpful guide for the Max Prop. Their prices are excellent as well as their service.  Where do you keep you 36. 
                                                             
                                                            Richard
                                                            Sabre 36  Seascape
                                                            Lake Ontario at RYC


                                                            -----Original Message-----
                                                            From: Finley, Mike <mfinley@prtm. com>
                                                            To: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com <Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com>
                                                            Sent: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 6:23 am
                                                            Subject: [SabreSailboat] Zinc Size
                                                            Someone with a good memory could perhaps remind me of the size zincs required for the  shaft on a 1990 S36 (Westerbeke 27A) …and a 1992 vintage Maxprop
                                                             
                                                            Thanks
                                                            Mike
                                                            Divided Sky
                                                            S36/100

                                                            More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail!
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