4933Re: [SabreSailboat] More Electrical
- Aug 2, 2006Most ammeters don't carry the full load. They use a shunt for that and register from a suprisingly low current. This makes them susceptible to loose or dirty connections. That's what I would checkfirst.Pete
On 8/1/06, David Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
My amp meter never shows that it is charging the battery. When starting it will drop to -30 or -40 amps but then returns to 0. I carry an inexpensive (less than $20) sears digital voltmeter. When I checked the voltage at the breaker panel it was about 13.6 volts, so I know the battery is getting charged.
Oswego, NY/Lake OntarioOn Aug 1, 2006, at 5:36 PM, Bob Burns wrote:
Today on the boat I again noticed that the amp meter seems to be randomly jumping around. The batteries are well charged but for some reason the amp meter will suddenly jump to 40 amps, stay there for a while and then jump back to what seems to be the right spot on the dial. The engine is a Volvo MD7A and this caught my attention a few weeks ago, then seemed to go away. Any ideas as to what can cause this? My guess is the regulator but I don't even know where it is!
By the way, on a related electrical issue, my ST 4000 autopilot was giving me a 'no data' message and the compass heading was stuck at 158 degrees. My immediate fear was that the electromagnetic compass had joined the parrot in the Monty Python skit and had ceased to exist. My first solution of rapping the compass with a screwdriver handle got it to change heading but now it was suck on 330 degrees; not exactly progress. Next day I removed the control head and removed all the wires, sprayed each connection with some contact cleaner and reattached all of the wires. Fixed! I guess the moral of the story is to never underestimate the simplest solution.
Any help with the jumpy alternator will be appreciated.
From: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailbo firstname.lastname@example.org] On Behalf Of John Garvin
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Origo stove
I know someone mentioned the BlueSea 8080 within the
past couple of days....2 winters ago, I installed a
bunch of new electrical components including a BS 8080
switch, a BS 9112 Automatic Charging Relay, a new
distribution panel, and a Xantrex true charge 40A
charger. BlueSea has a nice diagrama of what the
whole setup looks like (see attached photo).
My alternator charges the starting battery so I hooked
the Xantrex charger to the house bank.
I bought all my parts from Peter Kennedy. His prices
are much less than places like west marine. Jack
Rabbit Marine was pretty competitive, but Peter was so
helpful, I felt better buying from him.
No muss, no fuss. It works great.
--- Brooks Wright < email@example.com > wrote:
> Thanks Jim for the info.
> Sorry, but I already have an airplane. How do you
> think I get out to my mooring?
> Jim Starkey < firstname.lastname@example.org > wrote:
> Brooks Wright wrote:
> > Jim and Mike,
> > With the exception of the chocolate brownie in a
> Swanson's TV dinner I
> > agree completely regarding frozen dinners.
> Probably won't be cooking
> > those. A baked potatoe or heating soup, coffee,
> etc. will not take a
> > long time.
> > To answer your question, Jim, I have two 12 volt
> deep cycle house
> > batts. in parrallel, but they are both fairly new
> and same age. They
> > are separate from the starting batt. with 3
> switches a la Dick's
> > setup. However, my electrical guy advised against
> the combiner (and
> > said they caused fires, when I asked why he didn't
> like them)
> There are two types of "combiners". The more
> expensive ones are a set
> of diodes (and large heat sinks) to isolate the
> battery. This are dumb,
> inefficient, and require special wiring to ensure
> the batteries actually
> get charged. The better ones have a relay that
> bridges the batteries
> when charging current is present (the lower batter
> will always absorb
> the charge). The best way to handle it is to get a
> suitable relay
> (about $45 from the evil West Empire) driven by an
> oil pressure switch
> (about nothing from Napa).
> You might as well leave the 12 volt batteries as
> they are, but switch to
> a pair a big 6 volt batteries in series when you
> decide to replace them.
> > .
> > I'm supposed to be painting the house right now so
> naturally took
> > advantage of the question about the microwave to
> take a break and pull
> > out the electrical book. Just for a check on the
> numbers I divided the
> > Power required for AC on the Micro spec sheet 980
> (.98kW) by 12.5 V
> > and got 78.4 amps. I believe that means it would
> draw 78 amps in an
> > hour. So allowing that one, of course, wouldn't
> want to approach the
> > 50% total availabe amp hrs in the house bank (2 x
> 75 amp hrs x .5) it
> > seems like I could get away with 5 or so minutes.
> The absolute worst thing that could happen is that
> you'll either run the
> engine during desert or go to bed without a bedtime
> story. I don't know
> about designer rums, but a nice single malt works
> just fine in the dark,
> particularly if you pour a little extra because you
> can't see well.
> > P.S. try the Marie Calendar dinners. They're not
> too bad. (Well, if
> > you're in a hurry).
> If you're in a hurry, you've got the wrong kind of
> Wanna buy an airplane?
> Jim Starkey, Senior Software Architect
> MySQL AB, www.mysql.com
> 978 526-1376
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