47249Re: Inboard jib track on Sabre 28
- Apr 20 8:45 AM
Thanks, Dave and all. I'm glad I asked, because this looks all different from what I had envisioned. As you can see from the my attachment, I was planning on adding a 4 foot track that runs considerably forward of what you are talking about, starting 10 inches forward of the front of the coaming, as specified by Sabre for jibs 140 or smaller. So what you folks are describing would require installing a much longer track.
Though my genoa is up against the spreader close-hauled, I can see that with the aft end further inboard, there might be a better shape to the aft bottom portion of the sail, and maybe more twist in the genoa. Does the bottom of the sail tend to sit right up against the shrouds?
I had originally asked about the inboard track because I am planning on getting a new genoa (because of earlier mentioned problems with the luff of my genoa being cut 8 inches or so too short), and was thinking about getting a 140 jib, and for a 140, the outboard track really doesn't look like it would work at all. So with that in mind, how long does my inboard track have to be, and how far back would it have to be placed? It does seem that the Sabre spec of a foot forward of the coaming seems to be too far forward, as I had suspected. So I would be interested in finding out what layout you folks have.
---In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, <dave@...> wrote :What he said.dge
Sent from my iPhone 5.
On Apr 19, 2014, at 6:46 PM, "cbrey ." <carter.brey@...> wrote:
I use the lazy sheet for this technique. Works like a champ.
CarterOn Apr 19, 2014 3:24 PM, "Rick and Eva Hill" <lattitudes2@...> wrote:An option on switching the sheets between tracks is to tie a shorter piece of line to the genoa and temporarily tie it off on a midship cleat or somewhere else while you re-lead the sheet.Rick
On Apr 19, 2014, at 12:02 PM, "DAVID LOCHNER" <davelochner@...> wrote:
Sid,Fore and aft position is less critcial than the position relative to the boat's centerline. It is very helpful to have the holes on the tracks align so that car placement is easier, i.e, 4 holes back is the same on both tracks.Yes, a turning block is necessary both because of the lead and the forces on the genoa car especially when you are close hauled.Sheets always go over the lifelines.On re-running the sheets, it depends. Sometimes I'll re run them if I expect to do wide jibe angles on a broad reach. But that's a lot of work. Often I'll just run one sheet on the outboard track and let the second sheet become lazy. So, I'll have 2 sheets on the leeward side and one on the windward side. I only bother to do this when cruising on a long leg. Seldom do I run both sheets to the outside track, often 2 on the inside track and one working sheet on the outside. On those broad reaches, I'll take the vang and attach it to stanchion base and bring the boom down, I'll pick up a knot or so of speed and not have the boom banging around.DaveOn Apr 19, 2014, at 11:44 AM, xawdisney@... wrote:
OK, I said that I would need help if I decided to install an inboard jib track... so here goes.1. Placement... Spec says 1 ft forward of coaming, but that this might want to be adjusted fore or aft... Has anyone had to adjust this position?2. If you use the inboard jib track, it looks like a turning block for the sheet becomes necessary to keep the sheet from chafing on the coaming,,, Is this the case? The sheeting angle on the winches is not ideal using the outboard track, but I get by.3. When the inboard track is used with a 140-150 genoa, how does the sheet run relative to the lifelines?4. Do you use a second sheet to switch to the outer track for downwind, or rerun the sheets?I would like to understand how all this stuff works before drilling 26 holes in the deck.Thanks for any advice.SidPassing FancyS28-II #319
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