RE: [SabreSailboat] RE: New holding tank - question
- Nov 24, 2013 Expand MessagesView SourceJohn
My setup for sanitation lines in my S34 MKII has almost no low spots for waste to sit, and used significantly less hose.
I am including four pictures to show you what I did. Since I did this recently, I still want to finish it off by adding a way to lock the Y valve in place to be legal. This summer we kept it locked with a zip tie because I was sailing more than working.
1. I moved the whale diverter valve to a location under the sink. From the toilet there is about 3 feet of hose to get to the valve.
2. From the valve there is about 1 foot of hose that goes to the center of the hull and turns up to a vented loop that is as high and as close to the middle of the hull as I could get it. After the loop, there is about 2 and 1/2 feet to the overboard seacock.
3. From the valve to the left is about 5 inches of hose that goes to a PVC 90 degree elbow. This elbow makes a hard turn through the bulkhead. This hole is high enough that from here on it is a straight run down hill to my holding tank. That is probably about 5 feet of hose.
4. The only other hose I have is the pump out hose which also has no low spots.
My old set up was like the one you described with the Y valve near the tank, and lots of places for waste to sit.
In the future, I would like to add another fitting to the top of the tank with a dip tube that goes directly to a macerater pump directly overboard.
Also, in the future I would upgrade to the Trident 101 hose. I used what I did, because I had it and it was brand new. So far zero odor, which may be due to the lack of low spots.
On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 08:45 PM, jl_folk@... wrote:
John / jsts -
When you did this Uniseal tank inlet / outlet project did you put the Y-valve in the original location, and route the hose from the toilet to the Y-valve in the same way?
In my current installation, the hose essentially runs downhill from the head then makes a 90 degree turn up to the Y-valve. I'm trying to figure out how to avoid that low spot in the hose, as this is where the existing hoses are permeated the worst.
I ripped everything out today; tank and all hoses. I am haunted by the smell. I'm glad my wife wasn't there to see the mess.
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <jsts@...> wrote:Terry
I agree with this info. The hose of the very front of the tank is the old inlet.
When I drilled out my leaking fitting I was able to center my hole saw by installing a 1 1/2 inch plug that I got at home depot for about one dollar. I sacrificed this fitting and used it to center my hole saw bit.
On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 04:48 PM, jl_folk@... wrote:
Terry - my perspective:
1. The Uniseal will require a hole larger than the old threaded fitting molded into the tank. So you'll essentially remove that leaking fitting when you drill the new larger hole for the Uniseal. Search for 'hole saw enlarger' on Amazon and you will find a gadget that will let you put 2 hole saws on the same mandrel. The smaller one fits inside the existing hole and acts as a guide for the larger hole saw.
2. On my boat at least (also 34MKII), that hose is the inlet hose for the raw sewage.
Good luck. I am ripping out my existing holding tank tomorrow, getting ready to drop in the new one.
---In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, <wtsnt@...> wrote:
I pulled the waste holding tank out of my 34 MkII last weekend and thoroughly pressure washed it in preparation to re-plumb the hoses to the top of the tank. I have 2 questions/issues:
1. Facing the bow, the existing lower right hose fitting (output I think) was leaking. The suggested repair notes installing "dummy" 1 1/2 inch PVC pipes capped off using Uniseals. My question is, the leak I have is from the threaded insert that is fitted to the holding tank. Does that get removed and the Uniseal installed, or does the Uniseal fit in that threaded insert?
2. In the pictures I've seen of the holding tank upgrade, the hose that is located at the upper port side of the holding tank facing the bow is also capped off with a "dummy" PVC pipe. I hate to admit it, but I don't know what that hose is for. It comes back to the main diverter valve, but I'm not sure of its function. Can anyone update me on that?
Sabre 34 MkII "Kismet"
---In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, <jsts@..> wrote:My boat used to hold waste in the pump out hose when the outlet was on the bottom of the tank
Since I moved the outlet to the top of the tank, it is a more direct run, with no dips and sags. It took less length of hose, and I don't have to worry about odor, or a leak in that hose.
Great reasons to move to the top of the tank
S34 MKII Hull #333
On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 08:55 AM, Michael Rutstein wrote:It may be true ON JOHN'S BOAT that "but that is not the case in the Sabre 38 Mark I, to name one boat. If any part of your outlet hose lies below the top of the holding tank, then that length of hose, and any low spots further along, will hold waste and you'd better be sure that the hose and the connection to the tank are going to hold up.--
S/V TreasureSabre 38Salem, MA