The trick on reinstallation is to dry fit the window, then put down an outline in 3M 3" blue masking tape. If need be, put it below the frame, and then cut around the corners with a utility knife.
Remove the frame, wipe area with acetone, bed it (I used 4200) and install. You should get a bit of oozing all around. After an hour or when the 4200 has skinned, you can remove the tape and have a clean install.
I found the only leak I got was the channel glazing and not the frame to the cabin.
Barry, not sure of the 28, but on my 32, it is foam between the inner and out skins. They have a tendency to crack and fall away. If that is your problem, cut a piece of stiff styrofoam to put in there.'
Since I'm in the middle of a similar project on my S30. Let me try to answer your questions.
On the Sabre Yachts website, there is a drawing of how the window is bedded and instructions for rebedding the port. This would be a good place to start.
Removal is relatively straightforward. Remove the inside trim piece, break the seal around the port on the outside and use a wide putty knife and other devices to push the window and frame out. I used 2 putty knives one on the outside with a helper and one inside with a rubber mallet. I put the putty knife in the gap between the side of the cabin and the window frame and gently tapped the putty knife. I continued around the frame until the window popped out. Taking the window apart is straightforward.
The most challenging part is removing all the old caulk. Sabre used GE Silpruf which is an adhesive silicone caulk that is used to hold plate glass windows in their frames. It is tenacious stuff. You'll have to order it from somewhere, I ordered mine through the local Fastenal store.
After trial and error, I developed this system.
First make a tool. I found a scrap piece of oak corner molding that I trimmed down to fit the channel. Then, with the frame clamped in a vise, gently heat the caulk with a heat gun, the caulk will soften and you can either trim most of it off with a razor knife or use your homemade caulk removing tool to get most of the caulk off. Then cover the remaining caulk with a liberal dose of Dap Caulk Remover (about $3.50 at Lowe's), ignore the warning to not leave it on for more than 6 hours. Let it sit over night in a cool place (my basement worked well) so it doesn't dry out too much. Then use your homemade caulk removing tool to scrape, rub, and peel off the old caulk. You will probably need to do this a couple of time to get the worst of it off. Not a difficult job, but it can be tedious and good opportunity to practice patience.
When I talked to the guy at the auto glass shop, he suggested that the butyl tape that the sabre drawing shows is unnecessary. The silpruf should be enough to get a good seal.
I'll know by this time tomorrow how easy they are to reinstall.
According to my S30 manual, the S30 and S28s have mahogany plywood under the stanchion bases.
Identi! ty Crisis
Oswego, NY/Lake Ontario
On Jun 30, 2006, at 10:00 PM, Barry Wilson wrote:
I discovered a soft spot in the core below the window/port over the galley of my S28. I think I know the challenges of repairing the core. However, how easy is it to remove and replace the window? What challenges will have I have getting the window back in and sealed properly? Once removed, must I proceed to the final repair, or can the window be replaced as part of an exploratory adventure?
Assuming I can dig out the rotten core, didn't I read of a chemical of some sort that can be used to bolster core that isn't rotten but may have been damp at one point.
And one final question. In anticipation of some rebedding tasks, does anyone know if all the stanchions are through solid glass on the S28, or are some through wood cored deck?
S28 II 400
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