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33372Re: Traveler Replacement

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  • rdemayo
    Aug 1, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      Thanks Pete - A 3/8" control line will work. So did you use the 60mm or 72mm blocks on the Lewmar Oceans Series I? The way I read the specs., there is an option to go to larger 72mm blocks on the ends and the car.

      Bob D.
      Boston
      '93 30MkIII/#243


      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
      >
      > Bob -
      > Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise
      > sliding bolt track. I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to
      > Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes
      > Salsa braid in 3/8". It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and
      > ridiculously strong, but supple. Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta
      > braid. Easy to handle, no kinks. I replaced the traveller cleats with
      > Harken cam cleats with fairleads.
      > I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range
      > setup on another 30 Mk III.
      > Either way, the actual replacement job is the same. You'll need to find
      > someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.
      > Pete
      >
      > On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 11:26 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
      >
      > > **
      > >
      > >
      > > My '93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it's
      > > replacement is imminent. I thought I'd get one more season out of it but I'm
      > > motovated to do a mid-season upgrade.
      > >
      > > I've read with interest the details of the Lewmar Ocean Series upgrade
      > > issues you guys documented, and I have some questions:
      > >
      > > If I go with the L-Ocean I, the specs. indicate the largest control line
      > > for the 60mm blocks is 5/16". The 72mm blocks can go to 3/8". The existing
      > > control line is 7/16" and I'm not inclined to go smaller. Can anyone confirm
      > > the largrest line I can use with the 60mm or 72mm blocks? What are you
      > > using? With which Ocean Series, 1 or 2?
      > >
      > > The specs. also do not indicate the the high beam track will accomodate the
      > > sliding bolts, thereby a retrofit to all existing bolt hole locations. I
      > > read the installation notes here indicating the beam track is sliding bolt.
      > > Confirm?
      > >
      > > What bedding compound for the bolts and track? Suggestions?
      > >
      > > Thanks -
      > > Bob D.
      > > Boston
      > > '93 30MkIII/#243
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Martin -
      > > > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If
      > > you
      > > > have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end
      > > of
      > > > the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on
      > > either
      > > > side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show that.
      > > > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
      > > > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
      > > > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
      > > > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
      > > > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
      > > > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
      > > > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
      > > > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
      > > > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
      > > > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
      > > > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
      > > > Now for the hard part -
      > > > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
      > > > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
      > > > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
      > > > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
      > > > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms
      > > and
      > > > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
      > > > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
      > > > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
      > > > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the
      > > old
      > > > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
      > > > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
      > > > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since
      > > you'll
      > > > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet
      > > blocks
      > > > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
      > > > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
      > > > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
      > > > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
      > > >
      > > > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
      > > > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
      > > > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
      > > > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
      > > > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
      > > > washers.
      > > > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
      > > > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk
      > > a
      > > > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long
      > > enough
      > > > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
      > > > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
      > > >
      > > > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
      > > > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
      > > >
      > > > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
      > > > upgrade? Absolutely.
      > > > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main
      > > :)
      > > >
      > > > Pete
      > > >
      > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
      > > > > from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd
      > > like
      > > > > to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
      > > > >
      > > > > Martin
      > > > > Kokopelli s34II #291
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
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