23174Re: Attention gearheads
- Dec 1, 2009Peter,
Last winter when I was still trying to "save" our W33, I sent the injectors out for a bench test at $75 a pop. At that time I was made to understand that an injector shop could replace the barrels and use new shims ($15=/-) to get them into a "rebuilt" condition. I was able to get all four injectors tested and "reconditioned" for $325 if my mind serves me right. I know I did not have to spend the $425 x 4 that new injectors would have run. Our problem turned out to be scoring on the #4 cylinder wall. You probably remember that as I posted the sad story here last year and that we now have a new 3TJH4E Yanmar down below. I hope you do not have to go that route. Because I did and I am now $16K lighter in the cruising kitty, I am writing from New Orleans where I am working instead of cruising this winter. Pooh! At least I am ashore with the rest of you instead of writing about the warm waters and wonderful anchorages in Mexico this winter!
Jan S38 Mk I #41 "Capriccio" Mazatlan, Mex.
--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
> Guys -
> Thanks for the responses. It has a new fuel tank, and fresh racor
> (w/spacer), lift pump and injector pump filters. It will rev to 2500 (3000
> is governor tops) in neutral, still w/ lots of black smoke. Starting is a
> lot of cranking, with tons of black smoke prior to eventually running. My
> semi-educated guess is an injector or two not closing completely. That
> would sure equal excess fuel. The good news is that Baltimore Diesel Service
> tests and rebuilds all types of injectors, including small marine
> diesels with a one-day turnaround for <$100 per injector. I got that tidbit
> from a local farmer. (They get real irritable waiting combine parts this
> time of year) New injector from W is $475. Makes Mercedes parts cheap by
> I will check to make sure that Mickey & Minnie have not shacked up in the
> air inlet, though.
> On Tue, Dec 1, 2009 at 1:01 PM, Leonard Bertaux <lbertaux@...>wrote:
> > Peter
> > The following describes general diagnostic indications from various colour
> > exhausts:
> > "1. EXCESSIVE EXHAUST SMOKE
> > Excessive diesel smoke is due to incomplete combustion, normally caused by
> > faulty injection system or other engine troubles. A small amount of exhaust
> > smoke is normal during initial start-up or rapid acceleration.
> > Type of Smoke
> > Abnormal Exhaust smoke may be black, white or blue. Each type of smoke
> > indicates engine problems and these are discussed below:
> > Black Smoke
> > Excessive black smoke is caused by a rich air-fuel mixture. This may result
> > form problems with the injection pump or infection timing, which may in turn
> > be clue to a choked air cleaner, worn fuel injectors, adulterated diesel
> > fuel or the engine itself.
> > White Smoke
> > White smoke occurs mainly during cold starts, when the fuel tends to
> > condense into liquid and does not burn due to cold engine parts. The most
> > common reason for white smoke are in-operative glow plugs low engine
> > compression, a bad injector spray pattern, late injection timing or
> > injection pump problems.
> > Blue Smoke
> > Excessive blue smoke indicates problems from low engine compression and/or
> > worn piston rings, scored cylinder walls or leaking valve stem seals The
> > blue smoke is caused by crankcase oil entering the combustion chamber and
> > being emitted after partial combustion through the exhaust"
> > Len
> > s/v Walkabout
> > S38 MKII
> > On Dec 1, 2009, at 11:10 AM, Jim Starkey wrote:
> > Peter Tollini wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > After a miserable summer and fall of non-sailing due to illnesses,
> > > weather and life in general, I found my W18 increasingly tough to
> > > start, with lots of cranking and black smoke. When I got out, it
> > > wouldn't rev over 1500 and was pushing out plumes of black smoke. I'm
> > > thinking dirty/leaky injectors. Any other thoughts or sugggestions?
> > Black smoke means one of two things: Either incomplete combustion or a
> > pope hasn't been elected. Assuming you're not sailing the Sistine
> > Chapel, lets assume the former.
> > You might check your air filter. Blockage would explain all your
> > symptoms. Besides, checking cheaps things first is always a good strategy.
> > I had plenty of experience with clogged fuel filters during the Racor
> > switcheroo. On a W27, the engine would develop full power, then
> > gradually lose RPM, and eventually die. Fifteen minutes later, it would
> > be willing to run again as fuel osmosed through the filter. That
> > doesn't sound at all like what you've got.
> > Water in the fuel is highly unlikely unless your Racor is saturated, and
> > then it would probably kill the engine after destroying the injector pump.
> > I also could be a dead cylinder due to low compression. A compression
> > check is also cheap and will probably yield good news, at least from the
> > wallet perspective.
> > --
> > Jim Starkey
> > Founder, NimbusDB, Inc.
> > 978 526-1376
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