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14467Re: propeller shaft

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  • sid wax
    Feb 12, 2008
    • 0 Attachment
      Come to think of it, Dave, your observation seems accurate: the
      recess was more of a problem then the clearance. There is probably
      at least 2 inches of space in there, which would be enough to hold a
      piece of pipe, but a socket was too short to hold in place with my
      fingers while I slid the shaft forward to hold it, especially with
      that indentation. a short pipe nipple mighe have done the trick. The
      long metric bolts were just one more complication.

      Actually, how about if you took a short pipe nipple, and drilled and
      threaded a hole in the side? Then one could get the pipe into place,
      and put hold it in place with a machine screw from the side while you
      snug it down. I might try that if I have to get the damned thing
      apart again.

      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Peter,
      >
      > On the MD7A the flange has a deep recess, such that the there is
      > about an inch or so between the end of the shaft and the
      transmission.
      >
      > I attempted a variation of this method, using a socket instead of
      a
      > piece of pipe, but it was difficult to hold the socket in position
      > and get the bolts started, etc. So I resorted to the hammer, which
      > worked. Had I used a 2.5 inch piece of 1/2" pipe, it probably
      would
      > have worked like a charm, but it would have necessitated a trip to
      > the hardware store for the pipe and long bolts that are metric
      thread.
      >
      > With that experience, I'd suggest the tapping and PB Blaster
      first,
      > if that doesn't work, then take the trip to store and buy some
      pipe
      > and longer bolts. And then go with the destructive methods.
      >
      > Even pressure on the transmission probably won't hurt it, its not
      > much different than having the prop push the boat.
      >
      > Dave
      >
      >
      > On Feb 11, 2008, at 8:50 AM, vanbeckump wrote:
      >
      > > I was reading in Nigel Calder last night and he suggested
      decoupling
      > > the flanges, inserting a short piece of pipe (smaller in OD than
      the
      > > OD of the shaft) in between the two flanges and re-tightening so
      that
      > > the pipe forces the shaft out as the flanges are drawn together.
      > >
      > > With PB, heat and light rapping this sounds plausable.
      > >
      > > Has anyone tried it?
      > >
      > > Peter Van Beckum
      > >
      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "followingsea2001"
      > > <mnthomas@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > We used Berkeley Marine to remove the shaft and they
      specifically
      > > > ruled out using a slide due to risk of damage. When the flange
      did
      > > > not yeild to soaking in PB blaster they cut the flange with a
      > > cutting
      > > > wheel right on top of the key. once cut through, two whacks
      with a
      > > > hammer on a cold chisel and she was free with no damage to
      shaft.
      > > > Adds the cost of a new flange but saved that amount in labor
      not to
      > > > mention possible damage to tranny.
      > > >
      > > > Martin
      > > > Kokopelli
      > > >
      > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner
      <davelochner@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > Peter,
      > > > >
      > > > > I'm not certain if you can trust them, but, let's weigh the
      > > options.
      > > > >
      > > > > Attempt the easiest way to remove the flange, lots of PB
      Blaster,
      > > > some
      > > > > time, moderate heat (heating gun) and some persuasion with a
      > > > hammer.
      > > > > If that doesn't work, 30 minutes with a hack saw or somewhat
      less
      > > > time
      > > > > with a dremel tool and carbide blade. Replacement cost for a
      new
      > > > SS
      > > > > shaft ~$250.
      > > > >
      > > > > The yard method: 2-3 hours at $80/hour and maybe the shaft is
      > > > still
      > > > > good, maybe not. Maybe the transmission is damaged, maybe not.
      > > > Cost
      > > > > $240 for labor, and maybe a new shaft ~$250, and in the worst
      case
      > > > > scenario, a new or rebuilt transmission. $???????
      > > > >
      > > > > Admittedly, my boat is a freshwater boat, but it only took
      about
      > > > 10
      > > > > minutes of me tapping the flange with a hammer while Susan
      held
      > > > onto
      > > > > the prop to remove the flange.
      > > > >
      > > > > Dave
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > On Feb 9, 2008, at 2:19 PM, vanbeckump wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > > The yard has an interesting way of removing the flange from
      the
      > > > shaft.
      > > > > > They loosen the set screws etc on the flange, then they
      take the
      > > > prop
      > > > > > off and thread a custom made long rod "shaft puller" onto
      the
      > > end
      > > > of
      > > > > > the shaft. The shaft puller has a heavy sliding collar on
      it
      > > that
      > > > > > comes up hard against a stop at the far end. Apparently
      enough
      > > > > > banging on this pulls the shaft from the coupling.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > My big question is...can this be good for the transmission?
      They
      > > > say
      > > > > > "no problem" but then it isn't their transmission.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > They also warn that removing the propeller can be damaging
      to
      > > the
      > > > > > shaft. As in all boat work I brace myself for the worse
      possible
      > > > > > scenario but am I nuts to trust them?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Peter Van Beckum
      > > > > > S30 MK3 "Airborne"
      > > > > > Noank, CT
      > > > > >
      > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, sid wax <sid_w@>
      wrote:
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/Login.aspx
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Deep blue Yacht supply will sell you everything you need
      for
      > > > less
      > > > > > than $500 in parts including a custom fit prop shaft. You
      can
      > > cut
      > > > off
      > > > > > the old shaft and toss it (I used a Dremel tool, after
      weeks of
      > > > > > banging away and the trying to figure out how to get it
      out
      > > of the
      > > > > > flange Took about 1/2 hour in the end).
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > It cost me about a half day labor for the yard to put back
      > > > > > together. That was with a new prop. I don't know if the
      yard
      > > will
      > > > > > let you provide your own parts, though.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > vanbeckump <vanbeckump@> wrote:
      > > > > > > Thanks to all again. I think that using my newfound
      > > > > > knowledge I will
      > > > > > > negotiate with the yard. I may end up doing this myself
      but I
      > > > need
      > > > > > to
      > > > > > > be careful about where I apply my time.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Peter Van Beckum
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <sabre30_36@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > One inch stock should be readily available. It would
      likely
      > > > need
      > > > > > to
      > > > > > > > be cut to length but I can't imagine they would need to
      > > > machine
      > > > > > it to
      > > > > > > > match the one inch diameter. Sounds very odd to me.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Eric
      > > > > > > > Sabre 30 #36 "Spirit"
      > > > > > > > West River, MD
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "vanbeckump"
      > > > <vanbeckump@>
      > > > > > wrote:
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > The yard is quoting me a dripless stuffing box. A days
      > > > labor
      > > > > > plus
      > > > > > > > > parts they say. Does that sound right?
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > They warn that the bronze shaft may be damaged and
      need
      > > > > > replacement.
      > > > > > > > > If so they would want to replace it with stainless
      at
      > > around
      > > > > > $1,000.
      > > > > > > > > They say it would have to be completely machined out
      of
      > > > thicker
      > > > > > stock.
      > > > > > > > > I am wondering why one can't use one inch rod stock
      and
      > > > just
      > > > > > machine
      > > > > > > > > the prop end fitting.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > What are the advantages/disadvantages of stainless vs
      > > > bronze?
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Should I do this job myself?
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Petr Van Beckum
      > > > > > > > > S-30 MK3 "Airborne"
      > > > > > > > > Noank, CT
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
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