A handful of Indian Costume sources...
- [cross-posting to SCA India list...]
First, I must re-recommend Bhairavi's site at http://www.enteract.com/~larisa/bhairavi.html for links to lots of good stuff. Tribe Zareefat's page has a nice biblography section with works on Indian Costuming, amongst other items; it can be found at http://members.tripod.com/~Zareefat/dance.htm .
One of their members, Mistress Blodwen ferch Maergred, was kind enough to send me a few sources on choli illuminations some time ago. I'll cite them here, and hope she does not mind:
Tie-dyed Textiles of India: Tradition and Trade
by Veronica Murphy and Rosemary Crill
The World of Islam: Faith, People, Culture
The Classical Tradition in Rajput Painting
Indian Miniature Paintings and Drawings: The Cleveland Museum of Art Catalogue of Oriental Art Part One
by Linda York Leach
Ancient Indian Costume
by Roshen Alkazi
Although life has been too heatic to follow up poroperly on this, I have a gut instint that that garment of the Sinti/Ghawazee in early period is that described here, even in their travels through the Middle East...and only somewhat removed from current AmerTribal costuming. That would be ironic, to say the least. :)
Also, any thoughts on how far the costume style would have penetrated into the Middle East? If we wear Indian costuming, it would be a good idea, if possible, to match them up with the dance style. One reason is a number of people's legitimate diffculities with this costume style; then cite the lack of documentation for it being worn by period Middle Eastern women. However, if it's a result of the Islamic invasions, the conjecture gets interesting...