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Re: My First Choli

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  • Ghita
    I just finished my first choli this week also. Its completely wrong somehow..but at least for now its going to have to do. I didnt end up with rectangular
    Message 1 of 18 , Sep 1, 2010
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      I just finished my first choli this week also. Its completely wrong somehow..but at least for now its going to have to do. I didnt end up with rectangular sleeves with an underarm gusset, somehow I ended up with sleeve caps and set in sleeves...I just kept pinning and fitting and thats what happened. I probably shoudlnt have been trying to have my husband be the person helping me fit. His sewing skills leave a LOT to be desired.

      Its definitely NOT supportive. About 5 minutes into wearing it around the house and nothing was where it was supposed to be anymore and there are some weird compression lines in places there shouldnt be.

      Hopefully Ill have time before the event this weekend to start over and try again....we'll see!
    • Charles
      If it s not completely bonkers, you can use it as the basis of you next pattern by using Mistress Marcela s technique developed for Gothic Fitted Dresses
      Message 2 of 18 , Sep 1, 2010
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        If it's not completely bonkers, you can use it as the basis of you next pattern by using Mistress Marcela's technique developed for Gothic Fitted Dresses (cotehardies). In a nutshell, it needs to be quite tight under the bust (that's what holds them in) and you lie on your back to be pinned because that lets you shape the "girls" without having to fight gravity so much. I've found that when the lady lies on her back, I can take up the shoulder seam at least an inch and can take in the under bust seams quite a bit, also. Here is a link (starting at the pertinent point): http://www.cottesimple.com/fem_silhouette/curved/curved_9.html

        Page through that and you can get an ide how to do it. You pattern pieces aren't going to be the same shape, nor will the seams be in the same place, but you can apply this technique to most patterns. Keep in mind the fullness of the bust will go to the curved parts of the seams, so you can control the bust shape that way. Also look in the mirror while fitting. You can't judge your own bust by just looking down on iyt, no one else ever sees it from that position and you can miss any funny stuff going on underneath.

        Rashid

        --- In SCA_India@yahoogroups.com, "Ghita" <deb.milspec@...> wrote:
        >
        > I just finished my first choli this week also. Its completely wrong somehow..but at least for now its going to have to do. I didnt end up with rectangular sleeves with an underarm gusset, somehow I ended up with sleeve caps and set in sleeves...I just kept pinning and fitting and thats what happened. I probably shoudlnt have been trying to have my husband be the person helping me fit. His sewing skills leave a LOT to be desired.
        >
        > Its definitely NOT supportive. About 5 minutes into wearing it around the house and nothing was where it was supposed to be anymore and there are some weird compression lines in places there shouldnt be.
        >
        > Hopefully Ill have time before the event this weekend to start over and try again....we'll see!
        >
      • bethlakshmibetty
        I just uploaded a picture called UnderarmGusset.jpg to the Files section. This all works better with visual aids. What I *think* you are doing from what you
        Message 3 of 18 , Sep 1, 2010
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          I just uploaded a picture called UnderarmGusset.jpg to the Files section. This all works better with visual aids.

          What I *think* you are doing from what you describe is picture #1 on that diagram. That's what a sane and reasonable person doing this the first time would do. What I eventually had to do to make my cholis fit well was #4. It totally looks like someone screwed up if you go with the theory "things should be rectangular", but it works.

          The art to retangular construction is how to make the bias work for you (see arrows for warp, weft and bias). When we say "bias cut" we mean that the fabric is using the bias to give a certain stretchiness and shape to the peices of the garment.

          Since "diamond" isn't such a perfectly clear term, I showed what I meant by drawing 4 figures. The transition is:
          - #2 is #1 rotated by 45 degrees.
          - #3 is #2 squished - the length of any side is approximately the same (I didn't measure), but the angles are different.
          - #4 is completely different. The stubby corner has shorter sides, the pointy corner has longer sides. Works great for a choli, but it makes mathematicians absolutely bonkers.

          -Lakshmi


          --- In SCA_India@yahoogroups.com, minnaar <minnaar@...> wrote:
          >
          > I'm not positive I understood that... sounded like a lot of sewing terms
          > that I just don't get (simple simon over here, sorry :D)... but when the
          > gusset goes in to the choli, it does end up in a diamond shape, just the
          > grain of the fabric runs along the edge of the square, instead of corner to
          > corner in a diamond shape.
          >
          > In either case, I think I'll be trying to cut out Choli 3.0 tomorrow night,
          > so I'll let you know how it goes. Maybe I'll even take some in-progress
          > pictures so that if it turns out well, theres more of a step-by-step for
          > people (like me) instead of just a pattern (that even when labelled "easy"
          > is kind of intimidating).
          >
          > Tiruvati
          >
        • minnaar
          Yes... you are correct, I am doing #1, and on the next one I ll try #2. If that still doesn t work, then we ll see about moving on irregular diamond shapes.
          Message 4 of 18 , Sep 1, 2010
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            Yes... you are correct, I am doing #1, and on the next one I'll try #2.  If that still doesn't work, then we'll see about moving on irregular diamond shapes.  :)

            Step #1:  Clean the damn house so I don't have to go to someone ELSEs house to have enough room to lay out fabric.  LOL

            Tiruvati


            On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 3:15 PM, bethlakshmibetty <bethlakshmi@...> wrote:
             

            I just uploaded a picture called UnderarmGusset.jpg to the Files section. This all works better with visual aids.

            What I *think* you are doing from what you describe is picture #1 on that diagram. That's what a sane and reasonable person doing this the first time would do. What I eventually had to do to make my cholis fit well was #4. It totally looks like someone screwed up if you go with the theory "things should be rectangular", but it works.

            The art to retangular construction is how to make the bias work for you (see arrows for warp, weft and bias). When we say "bias cut" we mean that the fabric is using the bias to give a certain stretchiness and shape to the peices of the garment.

            Since "diamond" isn't such a perfectly clear term, I showed what I meant by drawing 4 figures. The transition is:
            - #2 is #1 rotated by 45 degrees.
            - #3 is #2 squished - the length of any side is approximately the same (I didn't measure), but the angles are different.
            - #4 is completely different. The stubby corner has shorter sides, the pointy corner has longer sides. Works great for a choli, but it makes mathematicians absolutely bonkers.



            -Lakshmi

            --- In SCA_India@yahoogroups.com, minnaar <minnaar@...> wrote:
            >
            > I'm not positive I understood that... sounded like a lot of sewing terms
            > that I just don't get (simple simon over here, sorry :D)... but when the
            > gusset goes in to the choli, it does end up in a diamond shape, just the
            > grain of the fabric runs along the edge of the square, instead of corner to
            > corner in a diamond shape.
            >
            > In either case, I think I'll be trying to cut out Choli 3.0 tomorrow night,
            > so I'll let you know how it goes. Maybe I'll even take some in-progress
            > pictures so that if it turns out well, theres more of a step-by-step for
            > people (like me) instead of just a pattern (that even when labelled "easy"
            > is kind of intimidating).
            >
            > Tiruvati
            >


          • Lana Gibbons
            Looks like a knitting (probably modern) underarm gusset to me. I d call that shape a kite . It works well because you reach up, but you don t reach down.
            Message 5 of 18 , Sep 1, 2010
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              Looks like a knitting (probably modern) underarm gusset to me.  I'd call that shape a "kite".  It works well because you reach up, but you don't "reach" down.
               
               
              -Lana

              "The art of simplicity is a puzzle of complexity."  -Douglas Horton


              On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 1:15 PM, bethlakshmibetty <bethlakshmi@...> wrote:
              I just uploaded a picture called UnderarmGusset.jpg to the Files section.  This all works better with visual aids.

              What I *think* you are doing from what you describe is picture #1 on that diagram.  That's what a sane and reasonable person doing this the first time would do.  What I eventually had to do to make my cholis fit well was #4.  It totally looks like someone screwed up if you go with the theory "things should be rectangular", but it works.

              The art to retangular construction is how to make the bias work for you (see arrows for warp, weft and bias).  When we say "bias cut" we mean that the fabric is using the bias to give a certain stretchiness and shape to the peices of the garment.

              Since "diamond" isn't such a perfectly clear term, I showed what I meant by drawing 4 figures.  The transition is:
              - #2 is #1 rotated by 45 degrees.
              - #3 is #2 squished - the length of any side is approximately the same (I didn't measure), but the angles are different.
              - #4 is completely different.  The stubby corner has shorter sides, the pointy corner has longer sides.  Works great for a choli, but it makes mathematicians absolutely bonkers.

              -Lakshmi
            • Jim and Andi Houston
              Ghita, When will you be on site? I ll be there Friday evening. Come find me in the kitchen and we ll take a look at it. Madhavi From: SCA_India@yahoogroups.com
              Message 6 of 18 , Sep 1, 2010
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                Ghita,

                 

                When will you be on site? I’ll be there Friday evening. Come find me in the kitchen and we’ll take a look at it.

                 

                Madhavi

                 

                From: SCA_India@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SCA_India@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ghita
                Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 6:14 AM
                To: SCA_India@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [SCA_India] Re: My First Choli

                 

                 

                I just finished my first choli this week also. Its completely wrong somehow..but at least for now its going to have to do. I didnt end up with rectangular sleeves with an underarm gusset, somehow I ended up with sleeve caps and set in sleeves...I just kept pinning and fitting and thats what happened. I probably shoudlnt have been trying to have my husband be the person helping me fit. His sewing skills leave a LOT to be desired.

                Its definitely NOT supportive. About 5 minutes into wearing it around the house and nothing was where it was supposed to be anymore and there are some weird compression lines in places there shouldnt be.

                Hopefully Ill have time before the event this weekend to start over and try again....we'll see!

                No virus found in this incoming message.
                Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3100 - Release Date: 09/01/10 02:34:00

              • Ghita
                I should be there Friday evening sometime... I made it out of cotton, and for some odd reason never pre-washed the fabric ( I ALWAYS pre-wash, not sure why I
                Message 7 of 18 , Sep 2, 2010
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                  I should be there Friday evening sometime...

                  I made it out of cotton, and for some odd reason never pre-washed the fabric ( I ALWAYS pre-wash, not sure why I forgot this time) but Im hoping thats a good thing. Im going to throw it in the wash and see if softening it doesnt help a bit with the fit. And for this weekend I can always just adjust the front of thesari to cover the whole dang thing anyway....lol....

                  Expect a request to come hang out at your house one evening after all this 25th year rush and confusion settles down! hehe

                  --- In SCA_India@yahoogroups.com, "Jim and Andi Houston" <jimandandi@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Ghita,
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > When will you be on site? I'll be there Friday evening. Come find me in the
                  > kitchen and we'll take a look at it.
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Madhavi
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > From: SCA_India@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SCA_India@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
                  > Of Ghita
                  > Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 6:14 AM
                  > To: SCA_India@yahoogroups.com
                  > Subject: [SCA_India] Re: My First Choli
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > I just finished my first choli this week also. Its completely wrong
                  > somehow..but at least for now its going to have to do. I didnt end up with
                  > rectangular sleeves with an underarm gusset, somehow I ended up with sleeve
                  > caps and set in sleeves...I just kept pinning and fitting and thats what
                  > happened. I probably shoudlnt have been trying to have my husband be the
                  > person helping me fit. His sewing skills leave a LOT to be desired.
                  >
                  > Its definitely NOT supportive. About 5 minutes into wearing it around the
                  > house and nothing was where it was supposed to be anymore and there are some
                  > weird compression lines in places there shouldnt be.
                  >
                  > Hopefully Ill have time before the event this weekend to start over and try
                  > again....we'll see!
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > No virus found in this incoming message.
                  > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                  > Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3100 - Release Date: 09/01/10
                  > 02:34:00
                  >
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