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Re: Memling Hat

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  • catherinerogerscook
    ... Things. I have several questions. ... Second, would cobochans and beads be a suitable sub for the ... The answers to your questions are yes, both the
    Message 1 of 4 , May 22, 2002
      --- In SCA-Milliners@y..., "susanmrichardson" <susanmrichardson@h...>
      wrote:
      >I recently placed a picture by Memling in a file under Sabine's
      Things. I have several questions.
      > First, is the young lady's hair coming out of the top of the
      > hat?
      Second, would cobochans and beads be a suitable sub for the
      > gold work along the lower edge of the hat? Third, is this hat as
      > easy as it looks or am I deceived because I lack hat making
      > experience? I am thinking of buckram and wire for the internal
      > construction and velvet with appropriated decorations for the
      > exterior. I am guessing that the hat is some type of modified
      > henna.

      The answers to your questions are yes, both the girls (who are very
      young and unmarried, are wearing modified truncated henins. Yes,
      their hair is flowing out the top of their henins. This is to show
      that they are unmarried girls.

      At this period of low country art, the emphasis in a great many
      representations of the Blessed Virgin Mary (often shortened to the
      BVM in English) who was called Onze Lieve Vrouw (or OLV in Nederlands
      which translates to Our Beloved Lady) focused very strongly on her
      virginity and her loose hair. Almost all Annunciation paintings show
      her this way and all the non-historical, devotional paintings of Our
      Lady as Queen of Heaven show her this way. For example:

      http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/5late/37noflo.jpg
      Memling, Madonna Enthroned with Child and Two Angels

      http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/w/weyden/goossen/kalmthou.jpg
      Van der Weyden, The Gift of Kalmthout (center panel)

      and

      http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/2middle3/13nodo2.jpg
      Memling, 1475, Donne Triptych. Note the BVMs hair.

      Also note the little girl kneeling beside her mother on the right
      side of the picture. She is wearing only the lappets-and-loop of her
      Mother's transition-style henin-and-lappets.

      If you spend time looking at a lot of Early Netherlandish painting
      you will find more examples of the loose hair = virginity symbolism
      and other examples of the hairband-style lappets and very truncated
      henins hennins (almost hairbands)worn by young girls

      Here is an example of the hairband-henin decorated only with pearls:
      http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/2middle2/13john11.jpg

      Memling, detail from the St. John Altarpiece (the girl, of course, is
      Salome)

      I would love to see your henin when you make it. The buckram and
      wire sounds as if it will work well. (You might also use tagboard,
      because we know that heavy tagboard-like paper was available in the
      late 15th century, and we DON'T actually know what henins were made
      of. (My personal theory is that they were made out of whatever the
      milliner had to hand - fur-felt; pasteboard; basketwork; wire and
      buckram; maybe even leather - all materials that were used for hats
      in the fifteenth century)

      I have seen many examples of precious and semi-precious cabachons in
      Netherlandish painting, but I can't recall seeing any beads but
      pearls. They really LOVED pearls.

      Good luck with your henin, and remember, if you are not an unmarried
      girl, all you have to do is put a top on your henin and you can keep
      everything else the same!

      Katharine of Cate Hall
      Barony and Kingdom of Atenveldt
    • susanmrichardson
      Thank you for your help. The gown and truncated henin are for my teenage daughter who is unmarried and has waist-length hair so this should work out
      Message 2 of 4 , May 22, 2002
        Thank you for your help. The gown and truncated henin are for
        my teenage daughter who is unmarried and has waist-length hair so
        this should work out perfectly. If it turns out as we hope, I will
        post a picture. Once again, thank you for the wonderful information.

        Sabine

        --- In SCA-Milliners@y..., "catherinerogerscook"
        <catherinerogerscook@y...> wrote:
        >
        > The answers to your questions are yes, both the girls (who are very
        > young and unmarried, are wearing modified truncated henins. Yes,
        > their hair is flowing out the top of their henins. This is to show
        > that they are unmarried girls.
        > (snip)
        >

        > I have seen many examples of precious and semi-precious cabachons
        in
        > Netherlandish painting, but I can't recall seeing any beads but
        > pearls. They really LOVED pearls.
        >
        > Good luck with your henin, and remember, if you are not an
        unmarried
        > girl, all you have to do is put a top on your henin and you can
        keep
        > everything else the same!
        >
        > Katharine of Cate Hall
        > Barony and Kingdom of Atenveldt
      • susanmrichardson
        I seem to have a real bee in my wimple about the Memling hats. Would someone be so kind as post the titles of some quality research books that covers these
        Message 3 of 4 , May 23, 2002
          I seem to have a real bee in my wimple about the Memling hats.
          Would someone be so kind as post the titles of some quality research
          books that covers these types of hats? I have 20,000 Years of
          Fashion, by Francois Boucher, but it offers little information other
          than it holds that the term "henin" was meant to be used as an insult
          when used in reference to the pointy hats.

          Thank you,
          Sabine
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