Some interesting information on the Atours
- Hi all,
I remember reading a TI article that advised that the hennin was a derogatory
term for the headdress which was called an Atour.
I recently checked out on ILL a book "La Mode et son Vocabulaire, Quelques
termes de la mode feminine au moyen age suivi dans leur evolution semantique"
by Eva Rodhe Lundquist. It has an interesting section on the word Atour
that I thought this crowd might find interesting.
The author first states that in the 13th century the word autour meant an
ornament or parure, but that in the 14th century it acquired a more restrained
and concrete meanint the ensemble of ornaments that decorate or hide the
hair of women.
The following quote is next given, which comes from Quicherat (early costume
historian) that quotes the chevalier de la Tour Landry. I quote it here
in French and then will attempt a translation for everyone:
"Une bonne dame me conta que en l'an 1371, elle et tout plein de dames et
damoiselles estoitent venues à une feste de sainte Marguerite où tous les ans
avoit grand essemblée. Et là vint une damoiselle mout cointe et moult jolie,
mais qui estoit plus diversement atournée que nule des autres. Et pour son
estrange atour, tous la venoient regarder comme une beste sauvage. Si luy
demanda a la bonne dame: M'amie, comment appelez-vous cest autour? Et elle
lui respondit que on l'appeloit l'atour du gibet. - Du gibet! dit la bonne
dame; eh, bon Dieu! le nom n'est pas beau, mais l'atour est plaisant. Je
demanday à la bonne dame la manière d'icelluy atour, et ell me le devisa; mais
en bonne foy, je le retins petitement, fors tant qu'il me semble qu'elle me dist
qu'il estoit hault levé sur longues epingles d'argent plus d'un doigt sur
la teste, comme un gibet."
A pretty lady told me that in the year 1371, that she and a group of ladies and
demoiselles went to a feast of Saint Marguerite which was held every year. A
demoiselle also came that was most coy and most pretty but whose atour was different from
all others. And because of the strange atour, everyone looked at it like a wild
beast. The pretty lady asked her: my friend, what is the name of this atour?
And she responded that it was called the atour of the gibbet. The gibbet! said
the pretty lady, oh good God, the name isn't pretty but the atour was pleasing.
I asked the pretty lady about the manner of the this atour, and she advised me,
but in good faith, I only remember a little, but it seems to me that she told
me the it was held high on long pins of silver that held up a bar over the head,
like a gibbet.
Anyway, I am having a bit of trouble understanding the last sentence - so if
anyone can help I would be most appreciative.
- Katherine Barich wrote:
> but in good faith, I only remember a little, but it seems to me that she toldMost fascinating! Wow.
> me the it was held high on long pins of silver that held up a bar over the head,
> like a gibbet.
> Anyway, I am having a bit of trouble understanding the last sentence - so if
> anyone can help I would be most appreciative.
I can't think of anything in the known headdresses of 1371 that would
look like this. The "butterfly" headdress is decades later, but could
be described that way, providing my guesses are right about the wire
support of the veil.
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
"Such virtue hath my pen...." -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
"I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!" --Cynthia V.
- I'm going to have to work on the French another time -- I'm too bloody tired
right now -- but on the subject of 'atours' as a name for the headdress more
commonly called the hennin, the following article has some interesting
information for 15th C England
Sutton, Anne. "Dress and Fashions c. 1470." In Daily Life in the Middle Ages,
edited by Richard Britnell. Thrupp, Stroud, Gloucestershire: Sutton, 1998.
Dame Alianora Munro, OL, Atlantia
the website: http://hometown.aol.com/noramunro/Chateau/index.htm
the blog: http://damenora.diaryland.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- What about those odd white hats in the Tres Riches Heures? Say, when they're
riding (May or, hmm, August? Don't have it in front of me) - anyway, the
ones that look like someone took a graduation mortarboard and draped a veil
over it, sort of. The tres riches is 1400 or so, right? So having those a
few years earlier could be plausible...
> -----Original Message-----
> turns.groups.yahoo.com] On Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 8:23 PM
> To: SCA-Milliners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [SCA-Milliners] Some interesting information on
> the Atours
> Katherine Barich wrote:
> > but in good faith, I only remember a little, but it seems
> to me that
> > she told me the it was held high on long pins of silver
> that held up a
> > bar over the head, like a gibbet.
> > Anyway, I am having a bit of trouble understanding the last
> sentence -
> > so if anyone can help I would be most appreciative.
> Most fascinating! Wow.
> I can't think of anything in the known headdresses of 1371
> that would look like this. The "butterfly" headdress is
> decades later, but could be described that way, providing my
> guesses are right about the wire support of the veil.
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
> "Such virtue hath my pen...." -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
> "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!" --Cynthia V.
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