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3395Re: a question on circlets

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  • borderlands15213
    Dec 15, 2006
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      --- In SCA-Milliners@yahoogroups.com, Kimiko Small <kimiko@...> wrote:
      > At 06:23 AM 12/14/2006, you wrote:
      > >off topic for this group, but did you notice how short the kilts are
      > >in this pic? It took me a minute to realize they were kilts and not
      > >a funny basqe on the doublet!
      > >
      > >Rashid
      > Actually, that's a matter of contention among the scholars, as to this
      > showing kilts or not. It appears so at first glance, but Derrick had a
      > description of both the jackets and shirts worn
      > He describes wool jackets:
      > "which fancy first did heed
      > His skirts be very short
      > with pleats set thick about"
      > "their shirts be very strange
      > not reaching past the thigh
      > with pleats on pleats they pleated are
      > as thick as pleats may lie
      > whose sleeves hang trailing down
      > almost onto the shoe."
      > ~ Dress in
      > Ireland<http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/irishbard/#1>1, pg 56
      > I did a recreation for a friend who wanted the bard's outfit shown
      in the
      > woodcut (he's the one standing next to the harper).
      > http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/irishbard/index.html
      > I think of them similar to a ruff for the waist (not a period thought).
      > It is not my contention to say for positive one way or another that
      > are or are not kilts, but from my former research, the evidence against
      > kilts weighs heavy, with only the images, which are in contention as to
      > accuracy, and with the written description above against, as the
      > for kilts.
      > Joane

      Agreed, Joane, that the evidence against kilts at this point in time
      weighs heavy indeed.
      (Very nice work on the bard's re-creation, by the way.)
      I'm never at home when I'm at a computer and home is where all my
      references are, so I'm working from memory, here, but there are a
      couple of references---possibly Fynes Morrison---to the leinte being
      "manifestly pleated and daubed with pitch." Now, that reference to
      pitch does open another cache of old herring, which for the moment I'd
      just as soon leave alone.
      I personally doubt those pleats we're seeing in that woodcut (showing
      the feast/celebration, and the lads warming their backsides) have
      anything at all to do with *kilts,* other than the word "kilt" meaning
      pleat or tuck (as in, "...in fabric," in this case.) The brat or
      mantle gradually became the great kilt, and at about the time this
      woodcut seems to be we start seeing some very little pictorial
      evidence of this (and some ambiguous references by the few
      diarist-minded travelers) but the great kilt is made up of more fabric
      than would fit neatly under the ionar; this is why I think what's seen
      here is the lower edges of the leinte (shirt, for the uninitiated.)

      About the circlet, which is the original inquiry which began this
      thread.... The link you provided, Joane, brought this to mind.
      In period or not too long after, there is a reference to Highland
      ladies wearing a *ribbon,* but not a metal circlet, around the head,
      in the manner of a circlet. It mentioned that "the ends hang down the
      sides," but didn't say whether this is two pieces of ribbon tied or
      knotted just above or in front of the ears with two ends on each side
      of the head, or one piece of ribbon, with its two ends hanging down
      just one side of the head.
      I may be mis-recalling, here, but I *think* I remember this has to do
      with marital status. Don't bet the farm on that, though. I believe
      these ribbons could be black or red or dark blue; no other colors for
      them were mentioned. That might reflect only what was worn in the
      region or regions where the "journalist" traveled; it might have to do
      with what was availble either in trade or in dyestuffs; it might have
      had cultural significance which isn't recorded.
      Whether this ribbon was supposed to have been decorative, functional,
      or both wasn't stated, or even, as I recall, speculated upon.

      As soon as I get back home and have a moment to check, I'll see what I
      can discover.

      I also agree that there's going to be a difference between what's worn
      in the Highlands, and what's worn in the Lowlands, and what's worn at
      Court, so it's important to know what part of Scotland one desires to

      Like you, "I" (persona) started out in Scotland, but has been in
      England, France, Italy, and will probably hie herself to the German
      states and to Spain.
      But eventually it'll be back to Scotland, "screw [my] courage to the
      sticking place," and do more research for Scottish garb and perhaps be
      content wearing "best guess" interpolations and interpretations.

      Oh, and Rashid: kilts as a garment are meant for an outdoor, active
      life, and even today with wearing the sewn-pleats "little kilt," the
      correct length is to the top of the kneecap or to the middle of the
      kneecap, but never any longer: if you're out stalking deer, for
      instance, you don't want to be hampered by kneeling on your clothing.
      For many outdoorsmen, and that includes farmers and isnt' limited to
      sportsment, wearing traditional Highland attire, the kilt may well be
      worn even shorter, not reaching so far as the top of the kneecap.
      Those brats/mantles/great kilts in their day would have been worn
      quite short. Contemporary commentary included astonishment at the
      rough, rude [rugged] manner of attire and the Highlanders' habit of
      going about bare-legged and even bare-thighed, for the most part, and
      through the roughest, coldest, wettest winter weather, and the fact
      that Highlanders seemed untroubled by their weather-reddened skin or
      the cold that effected it. Hardy folk!

      Apologies to the list: kilts aren't millinery!

      Yseult the Gentle
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