3395Re: a question on circlets
- Dec 15, 2006--- In SCA-Milliners@yahoogroups.com, Kimiko Small <kimiko@...> wrote:
> At 06:23 AM 12/14/2006, you wrote:
> >off topic for this group, but did you notice how short the kilts are
> >in this pic? It took me a minute to realize they were kilts and not
> >a funny basqe on the doublet!
> Actually, that's a matter of contention among the scholars, as to this
> showing kilts or not. It appears so at first glance, but Derrick had a
> description of both the jackets and shirts worn
> He describes wool jackets:
> "which fancy first did heed
> His skirts be very short
> with pleats set thick about"
> "their shirts be very strange
> not reaching past the thigh
> with pleats on pleats they pleated are
> as thick as pleats may lie
> whose sleeves hang trailing down
> almost onto the shoe."
> ~ Dress in
> Ireland<http://www.kimiko1.com/dressdiaries/irishbard/#1>1, pg 56
> I did a recreation for a friend who wanted the bard's outfit shown
> woodcut (he's the one standing next to the harper).those
> I think of them similar to a ruff for the waist (not a period thought).
> It is not my contention to say for positive one way or another that
> are or are not kilts, but from my former research, the evidence againstevidence
> kilts weighs heavy, with only the images, which are in contention as to
> accuracy, and with the written description above against, as the
> for kilts.Agreed, Joane, that the evidence against kilts at this point in time
weighs heavy indeed.
(Very nice work on the bard's re-creation, by the way.)
I'm never at home when I'm at a computer and home is where all my
references are, so I'm working from memory, here, but there are a
couple of references---possibly Fynes Morrison---to the leinte being
"manifestly pleated and daubed with pitch." Now, that reference to
pitch does open another cache of old herring, which for the moment I'd
just as soon leave alone.
I personally doubt those pleats we're seeing in that woodcut (showing
the feast/celebration, and the lads warming their backsides) have
anything at all to do with *kilts,* other than the word "kilt" meaning
pleat or tuck (as in, "...in fabric," in this case.) The brat or
mantle gradually became the great kilt, and at about the time this
woodcut seems to be we start seeing some very little pictorial
evidence of this (and some ambiguous references by the few
diarist-minded travelers) but the great kilt is made up of more fabric
than would fit neatly under the ionar; this is why I think what's seen
here is the lower edges of the leinte (shirt, for the uninitiated.)
About the circlet, which is the original inquiry which began this
thread.... The link you provided, Joane, brought this to mind.
In period or not too long after, there is a reference to Highland
ladies wearing a *ribbon,* but not a metal circlet, around the head,
in the manner of a circlet. It mentioned that "the ends hang down the
sides," but didn't say whether this is two pieces of ribbon tied or
knotted just above or in front of the ears with two ends on each side
of the head, or one piece of ribbon, with its two ends hanging down
just one side of the head.
I may be mis-recalling, here, but I *think* I remember this has to do
with marital status. Don't bet the farm on that, though. I believe
these ribbons could be black or red or dark blue; no other colors for
them were mentioned. That might reflect only what was worn in the
region or regions where the "journalist" traveled; it might have to do
with what was availble either in trade or in dyestuffs; it might have
had cultural significance which isn't recorded.
Whether this ribbon was supposed to have been decorative, functional,
or both wasn't stated, or even, as I recall, speculated upon.
As soon as I get back home and have a moment to check, I'll see what I
I also agree that there's going to be a difference between what's worn
in the Highlands, and what's worn in the Lowlands, and what's worn at
Court, so it's important to know what part of Scotland one desires to
Like you, "I" (persona) started out in Scotland, but has been in
England, France, Italy, and will probably hie herself to the German
states and to Spain.
But eventually it'll be back to Scotland, "screw [my] courage to the
sticking place," and do more research for Scottish garb and perhaps be
content wearing "best guess" interpolations and interpretations.
Oh, and Rashid: kilts as a garment are meant for an outdoor, active
life, and even today with wearing the sewn-pleats "little kilt," the
correct length is to the top of the kneecap or to the middle of the
kneecap, but never any longer: if you're out stalking deer, for
instance, you don't want to be hampered by kneeling on your clothing.
For many outdoorsmen, and that includes farmers and isnt' limited to
sportsment, wearing traditional Highland attire, the kilt may well be
worn even shorter, not reaching so far as the top of the kneecap.
Those brats/mantles/great kilts in their day would have been worn
quite short. Contemporary commentary included astonishment at the
rough, rude [rugged] manner of attire and the Highlanders' habit of
going about bare-legged and even bare-thighed, for the most part, and
through the roughest, coldest, wettest winter weather, and the fact
that Highlanders seemed untroubled by their weather-reddened skin or
the cold that effected it. Hardy folk!
Apologies to the list: kilts aren't millinery!
Yseult the Gentle
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