Thank you, Rashid, thanks muchly.
I've been through that section of Marc Carlson's site.
<sigh> You know, I think I've just finally realized that my post was
very poorly written.
Fitting's almost never a problem. I must have been expecting you all
to read my mind, or extrapolate from Vangelista's through mine, that
my question, which I didn't state expressly, was:
"What, in your opinion, is the method that combines the most
economical use of fabric and still maintains a period cut?"
But I've thought about it, and I've decided that no matter what
layout I use, I'm not likely to save as much as one-eighth of a yard
per shirt or tunic, and we're not going to be doing so many pieces of
garb for him that we'll be saving much in toto, anyway.
Which I think was part of what you've said, yes?
And we're in complete agreement to go for the fit. It might be
interesting, sometime, to try the different cuts for the same garment
for the same person, working with the same amount of fabric for each.
--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "unclrashid" <unclrashid@y...> wrote:
> --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "borderlands15213"
> <borderlands15213@y...> wrote:
> > He's not terribly tall, but he *is* a very large lord.
> > 1.) Cut the front and the back wider (fuller) and make the
> > seams longer? This will drop the shoulder seam off the shoulder
> > but will allow a smaller gusset.
> > 2.) Kinda cheat? Shape the armhole more like a modern armscye,
> > which would allow the sleeve to attach at the actual end of the
> > shoulder, shape the sleevehead and possibly eliminate the
> > And accept some "wastage" in the cutting?
> Contrary to popular belief, some of the extant tunics of the middle
> ages show armhole shaping. Usually somewhat shallower than a
> armhole. Usually the sleevehead is just cut straight. It is also
> possible to use a gusset with the sleeve in this case.
> I have also done a lot of sewing for large people and here is what
> find works best: cut the body of the tunic to fit the body and
> allow plenty of ease. Either cut a seperate front and back or in
> piece, connected at the shoulders (the shoulders should be straight
> acroos, not shaped). If cutting the front and back in one piece,
> then lay it out folded at the shoulder line. Then cut the sleeve
> (with a straight sleeve cap) and gussets if using them. Sew the
> gussets to the sleeve, if using. Fold sleeve in half longways.
> Then measure the width of the shoulders and mark that on the body
> piece of the fabric. Lay the folded in half sleeve cap on your
> piece and mark a straight line the length of the folded sleeve cap
> from where the shoulder line should be to the edge of the body.
> This should make a shallow "armhole" with no curve at the bottom.
> Then redraw this line adding seam allowances and curving it as it
> approaches the top (or fold) of the body piece, so that it makes a
> smooth curve over the top of the shoulder rather than a sharp angle.
> Here is an extant tunic cut sort of like that:
> Here is alink for a kirtle that I find works really well for large
> when making this for large peole I frequently curve the bodice
> in a little after they go over the bust and shoulder blades till
> they hit the shoulder line. There is some evidence (not at this
> site, but in the book) that this was done in period. It not only
> mkes the tunics fit big people better, but makes it possible for a
> small person to were on that is extremely large and it just looks
> nicely draped rather than bulky.