Re: Storing fabric...
- View Source--- In SCA-Garb@egroups.com, "Trinity, the One & Only" <phoenix@c...>
> Hiya! instead of re-inventing the wheel, i come before you skilledand
> inventive ladies... to ask if you label your bought-for-no-good-reason
> fabrics. i've recently bought large quantities of muslin, thenused parts
> for this and that... now, have no idea how much is on each hunk.do you
> label how much these misc. chunks have in them? or have to dig foreach
> project???Dear Trinity, I label anything, but I tend to be a little... um... "a-
r". I have had it happen far too many times where I thought I had
enough fabric for a project, and at the last moment found I had about
6" too little and couldn't fudge it no how...
But for muslin, I keep my "muslins" that I use as patterns in folders
labeled by what they are ("my bodice", "man's sleeve"...). The
muslin that is still on the bolt or fairly continuous, I leave as it
is. The muslin I have used and think I can reuse (in other words, I
used it as a pattern and it can be used again for a smaller one), I
put in a big garbage bag and I dip in there for just the right size
piece whenever I'm making a pattern.
For fabric I actually make garb out of, however, I have a list that
says stuff like: 6 yards 59" wide 5.3oz Ukrainian linen; 5 yards of
60" wide and a few yard-long pieces of 45" wide wool twill, blue...
It works for me.
> i know there's a way withthere's any
> burning a thread pulled from the fabric that will indicate if
> polyester or rayon, but cannot remember which burn pattern meanswhat...
> and i want to begin to label the fabrics that are meant forthe "holding
> pattern collection" so i will know when i grab it if it is forWinter or
> breatheable...I know someone sent you the burn test page already, but I have to add
my two cents. Polyester melts when you burn it (it's akin to
plastic), but rayon, linen and cotton are very hard to tell apart by
a burn test. You see, rayon is made from reconstituted (if that's
the correct term) saw dust and wood shavings, linen is from the flax
plant, a bast (woodsy) fibre, and cotton is of course from the cotton
plant. What these three all have in common is that their fibres are
cellulose, which smells the same no matter what source it comes
from. So just like burning wool (the "hair" of a sheep) and burning
human hair smell alike, burning cotton, linen and rayon all smell
like burning paper (yet another cellulose fibre!).
When trying to differentiate between rayon, cotton, and linen, I use
visual and tactile cues rather than a burn test. Try this. Take a
piece of the fabric in question and squash it in your hand. I mean,
really smoosh it in your fist. Then let it go. Linen will stay
wrinkled. Cotton will too, but not as badly. Rayon will smooth out
more. Also, look at the weave. Linen always has "slubs" in the
weave. But rayons that are meant to look like linen have artificial
slubs. Are the slubs truly random or are they uniform -- the same
size, shape, and occurring at intervals. If they are uniform, it's
rayon. Also, if you drop the fabric haphazardly onto the floor,
rayon will sit in a smooth pile, which linen will look
very "jagged". Cotton fabric tends to look like bedsheets. I avoid
using it because the rare cotton that was used in period was not
as "perfect" as the stuff we have today. But I digress. If you
really want to know if something is cotton, linen or rayon, pull off
a thread and "unspin" it with your fingers. Cotton will look fuzzy
like cotton balls. Rayon will shine the more you play with it.
Rayon with be a little fuzzy, but not like cotton. It'll mostly be
Of course, this all gets confused by cotton-linen blends. But don't
worry -- linen warp with a cotton weft was woven in the Middle Ages
and was called fustian. It's cheaper than linen in modern times and
yet is comfy and looks much better than wearing 100% cotton.
I hope this has helped you, Trinity. If I can be of further service,
just let me know.