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Shoulder/Sleeve Seam

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  • feinicsinion
    I m making kirtles and tunics for my family. I found several wonderful tutorials about how to make these garments however most of them refer to using a T style
    Message 1 of 8 , Mar 28, 2013
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      I'm making kirtles and tunics for my family. I found several wonderful tutorials about how to make these garments however most of them refer to using a T style for attaching the sleeve. That is you take a long rectangle and sew it to the arm hole. I'd like to use the inverted U shape to create a better fit on shoulder but have never learned how to determine the curve and angles for this part of the pattern. I've been sewing since I was 8 so this shouldn't be outside my skills but does anyone have a good tutorial that explains how to figure this portion of the pattern out please?

      Thank you!
      Ariana
    • bgable55
      I cheat and use the shoulder curve from a commercial pattern, as I am not patient enough to draft my own ; ) Barb Sent from my Samsung Epicâ„¢ 4G
      Message 2 of 8 , Mar 28, 2013
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        I cheat and use the shoulder curve from a commercial pattern, as I am not patient enough to draft my own ; )

        Barb




        Sent from my Samsung Epicâ„¢ 4G Touchfeinicsinion <arianaabbrinneall@...> wrote:
        ... I'd like to use the inverted U shape to create a better fit on shoulder ...
        (Snipped by mod. Trim your posts!)

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Dee Cadoret
        Measure the shoulders from point to point. That is the shoulder width of the tunic. Then you cut straight down from the shoulder point, parallel to the side of
        Message 3 of 8 , Mar 29, 2013
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          Measure the shoulders from point to point. That is the shoulder width of
          the tunic. Then you cut straight down from the shoulder point, parallel
          to the side of the tunic, for about 10 inches at which point you start
          curving the cut with about a 1.5 inch radius. Once you get the curve cut
          you straighten out and cut parallel to the shoulder until you get to the
          side of the tunic. The gusset may have to be changed size to fit
          properly but the square gussets works great with this method.

          On 28/03/2013 11:18 PM, feinicsinion wrote:
          > ... does anyone have a good tutorial that explains how to figure this portion of the pattern out please?
          (SNIPPED BY MOD. TRIM YOUR POSTS!)
        • Robin
          Something small to remember, ladies, but very important for the fit of a lady s gown... As you are cutting your sleeve pattern, remember to cut it in (that is,
          Message 4 of 8 , Mar 29, 2013
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            Something small to remember, ladies, but very important for the fit of a lady's gown...

            As you are cutting your sleeve pattern, remember to cut it in (that is, subtract a little fabric) in the front of the armpit, and add out (that is, expand the pattern by adding a little fabric) to the OUTSIDE of the arm, at the back of your shoulder.

            Most ladies I know are constantly working with their arms in front of their bodies, grabbing kids, chopping things in the kitchen, or just schlepping things. As you are leaning forward, you will be grateful for the little extra fabric at the back of your sleeve that will keep your back shoulder seams from straining. The best way to ruin a lovely fitting gown is with torn-out sleeve seams. And with the fabric reduced at the front of the armpit, the bust and neckline fits much more smoothly, particularly for those of us who are curvy. Makes a difference in the fit of the waist, as well.

            Robin
          • Ankharet
            Are there any good video s on how to do this. i am a visual learner and hands on. I too have been sewing a long time (20+ years), but have always struggled
            Message 5 of 8 , Mar 29, 2013
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              Are there any good video's on how to do this. i am a visual learner and hands on. I too have been sewing a long time (20+ years), but have always struggled with written instructions and visualizing and making that come to life. I think i already know how to do what you are explaining, but I'm just not sure :)
              Ankharet

              --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, Dee Cadoret <kitaye@...> wrote:
              >
              > Measure the shoulders from point to point. ...

              (SNIPPED BY MOD. TRIM YOUR POSTS!!!!)
            • Ariana Teaveliv
              I kept looking and found the below tutorial. What are your feelings on the validity of this tutorial. Seems pretty straight forward and simple to accomplish to
              Message 6 of 8 , Mar 30, 2013
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                I kept looking and found the below tutorial. What are your feelings on the
                validity of this tutorial. Seems pretty straight forward and simple to
                accomplish to me but how practical is it in usage?

                Ariana

                http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.com/2010/08/drafting-basic-sleeve-block-part-i.html


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              • Joan Silvertoppe
                ... It looks like a great tutorial for a modern straight sleeve. It will get you the basics. There are some additional things you should keep in mind, that
                Message 7 of 8 , Mar 31, 2013
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                  On Mar 30, 2013, at 8:51 AM, Ariana Teaveliv wrote:

                  > Seems pretty straight forward and simple to
                  > accomplish to me but how practical is it in usage?


                  It looks like a great tutorial for a modern straight sleeve. It will get you the basics. There are some additional things you should keep in mind, that period sleeves will generally have a lower sleeve cap, with a wider sleeve width.

                  I just taught a class called Overcoming the Sleevils. It may be helpful along with the above tutorial. The pattern draft I offered on the last two pages is more Elizabethan era (and is not my draft), but the basic sleeve info is appropriate for any sleeve pattern. I hope it will be helpful for folks having problems with sleeves, especially in understanding what parts of a sleeve should be adjusted and where.

                  The article is a pdf and can be found linked at the top of this page.
                  http://www.kimiko1.com/WrkshpArtcls.html

                  Joan
                  ps
                  If anyone has suggestions to improve the handout, please contact me off list. I want to improve it for future classes. Thanks.


                  Lady Joan Silvertoppe
                  http://www.kimiko1.com/JoanS/
                  A Gentlewoman's Accounts
                  http://www.kimiko1.com
                  Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern.
                  http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/TudorLady.html





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                • feinicsinion
                  Joan, Thank you! The PDF is fantastic and exactly what I was looking for. You re the best. Ariana ... (snipped by mod.) ... (Snipped by mod. Trim your posts.)
                  Message 8 of 8 , Apr 1 8:51 AM
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                    Joan,

                    Thank you! The PDF is fantastic and exactly what I was looking for. You're the best.

                    Ariana

                    --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, Joan Silvertoppe <jsilvertoppe@...> wrote:
                    (snipped by mod.)
                    > I just taught a class called Overcoming the Sleevils....
                    > The article is a pdf and can be found linked at the top of this page.
                    > http://www.kimiko1.com/WrkshpArtcls.html
                    (Snipped by mod. Trim your posts.)
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