No farthingale is required under an early Tudor dress. The farthingale in England does not appear to become popular until about 1545, when the first surviving tailors document shows Princess Elizabeth getting one made for her, and about then is when the portraits are painted full body and shows the farthingale cone shape. While Catherine of Aragon is noted as bringing one when she first arrived in England to marry Prince Arthur, she seems to have dropped the fashion soon after as it doesn't become popular until around 1545.
I do not believe a bumroll of any sort is worn during the first half of the century. It is not documented until much later, at least in England, and the bumroll gives a different shape.
As to the fullness of the skirt, it actually isn't all that full in the front, with the large pleats occurring in the backside, and two pleats in the front about over the front hip bones. I make those as box pleats, and it helps to flow the skirt (my front panels are gored) over the front and is otherwise smooth in front. The back material appears in images to be in a few (4-8) large pleats, but the fuller the back is, the heavier it is as well. If you want fullness without a lot of weight, I'd suggest making the back skirt panels in gores as well.
One of my friends does padded pleats, which is documented in Queen Mary Tudor's time frame (so maybe later than what you've said you wanted). This would be a strip of wool added underneath the back pleats to make them appear fuller.
I also have friends who do wear a farthingale just to allow for easier movement and air flow. So do whatever you prefer.
Lady Joan Silvertoppe
A Gentlewoman's Accounts http://www.kimiko1.com
Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern.
--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "wren378" <wren378@...> wrote:
> Do I have to wear a farthingale under my tudor dress? <snip>
> Can I get away with just a bum roll instead to help make the skirt fuller? <snip>