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Re: Florentine gown questions

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  • neimhaille
    ... Do not cut new fabric for the bodice yet! Refit the bodice from lining and interlining fabric first and see what you can salvage from the bodice you have
    Message 1 of 9 , Jan 2, 2010
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      > I'm working on a Florentine gown similar to this portrait.
      >
      > http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/florentine/flor22.html
      >
      > There is also this red gown, but I don't remember the year it was done.
      > http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qJAeIAGx229trAOEFGlFlg?feat=directlink
      >
      > The waist is straight across the front along the natural waist(My natural
      > waist is very high.) The sleeves are huge and probably spanish.
      >
      > But due to losing weight after I started the bodice, I may not have enough
      > of the plum brocade to do those sleeves. Since I'm redoing the bodice,
      > cutting it out again,

      Do not cut new fabric for the bodice yet! Refit the bodice from lining and interlining fabric first and see what you can salvage from the bodice you have already cut. You will almost certainly be able to reuse more than you think. Also think about piecing the sleeves and bodice it's a great fabric saver and the period practice ;)
      http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/florentine/flor6.html
      http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/florentine/flor11.html
      With this bodice style you can probably cut the shoulders separately thus saving more fabric (cutting shoulders in one with the body wastes a lot of fabric). I do this all the time as it helps support a wide neckline (the shoulders and front and back all wind up with the grain of fabric and don't stretch) and for fitting close into the nook between bust and shoulder. With the guarding the seams at the corners of the neckline will be disguised. I'm not sure but there may be a portrait or two from around this time with wider guarding than in these two examples in conjunction with wide hanging sleeves.
      Also remember you can piece the brocade while making the lining and interlining all one piece.

      I do not recommend making the sleeves from a totally different fabric. There are very styles that works for (and are usually separate sleeves pinned/tied in or from an undergarment).
      http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/florentine/flor11.html
      And in this region they seem to be ballon shaped rather than hanging when they are clearly different.

      However if you were okay with moving your inspiration a little you will be able to use the vevet as guarding and thus save more fabric. You do not have to have the brocade go all the way under the guarding after all.

      I'd try and stick with the side back lacing but you an probably make the opening come closer to under the arms than towards the back which makes it easier to get to the lacing yourself.

      > I LOVE those sleeves. Is the white guazy looking fabric a lining for the
      > sleeves or part of the chemise? What are the orange tight sleeves at the
      > wrists? I mean, is there a chemise under those 3 layers?

      This is possibly that great artistic convention of Making Thing Up Because They Look Pretty or it could be a fake chemise layer or it may be a full chemise worn over a more practical chemise (possible support layer) and these sleeves.
      For practicallity and for the ability to make things as multifuntional as possible I'd make it as a full chemise and wear a less ostentatious chemise under it all.

      Meesteres Willemyne van Nymegen,
      http://glittersweet.com
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