--- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com
, Aspasia Moonwind <aspasia_moonwind@...> wrote:
> They are .5" apart when closed and 1/4" inside. Maybe it is the lace. >I will check a shoelace. It does not hold me when it is closed. It >sags at the top and gathers at the bottom.
A good stiffening, like a 2" wide strip of linen interlining just along the lacing edge will help, but as the day wears on and the linen gets soggy with sweat, even that can be a problem.
In corsetry, there are traditionally 2 ways to solve the problem:
1) Use 2 cords. Lace from the top down to the waist, then from the bottom up to the waistline, and tie them both at the waistline. Trouble is, I have not seen any evidence of this yet in SCA period. LOTS in Victorian, though.
2) Shorten the length of the area you are lacing up. (Just sew the slit closed for a few more inches. Maybe you can add a bow or other decoration to cover your lacing holes.) There's a reason so many Elizabethan gowns seem to be short-waisted; if you stop the lacing at or above the waistline, then you usually won't see that bottom bunching. In fact, even in late 16th Century gowns, where the bodice point comes far down in the front, the bodice nevertheless slants upward toward the back of the gown. In PoF by Arnold, the kneeling statue demonstrates this nicely in the photo shot from the side.
Basically, any lacing that does not stop at the waistline by any method will cause such bunching -- even with very firm boning.
For right now, a quick fix could be to reverse your lacing; If you lace from bottom up, try from top down instead. When someone laces you in, have them knot or tie the cord at the the first 2 holes so the shoulder area simply can not widen at all, then continue spiral lacing down at tie at the bottom near your waist.
Hope I helped,