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Re: Viking Age appliqué

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  • quokkaqueen
    Just a technical point, there is a difference between fulled and felted wools (as has already been mentioned here), but there is very little evidence for felt
    Message 1 of 21 , Jan 16, 2009
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      Just a technical point, there is a difference between fulled and
      felted wools (as has already been mentioned here), but there is very
      little evidence for felt in Scandinavia, compared to the amount of
      fulled wools available.*

      Apparently (I haven't checked the original source, or the new Oseberg
      book) there is a woollen applique, but it is just a rectangular
      piece, not an elaborately shaped roundel. Not to mention, there is no
      guarantee that it was attached to an item of clothing like a coat.
      See: http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Oseberg/dress/OSEBERG.HTM

      On the attendants' gown, although, once again, I haven't been able to
      track down the NESAT article mentioned, there are appliques in wool in
      the shape of animal heads. But that was only on the dress layer, not
      on a coat or apron dress, and only on a early Viking-age 9th c. find.
      I'm not sure it could be extrapolated to other layers of dress, or
      centuries.
      Source: "Dress in Anglo Saxon England" [Revised edition] by Gale
      Owen-Crocker pp.312-313
      and
      http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Oseberg/textiles/TEXTILE.HTM
      "Finally some small applications in the blue tabby should be
      mentioned. Several of them represent animal figures, but they are also
      clumsily done."

      So, there is one or two examples of Viking-age appliques of wool, but
      they both come from the same boat-grave find, and it seems they were
      small, and it's implied they aren't as complex as the appliques modern
      people think of when they hear the word.

      Hope that helps a little, I've included some more information about
      felt below.

      ~Asfridhr


      * Source: Judith Jesch [ed] "The Scandinavians from the Vendel Period
      to the Tenth Century" (Boydell Press, 2001) SBN: 9780851158679

      At the end of each chapter, there is a 'discussion' between the
      different archaeologists/specialists, and this is on pages 149-50

      p.149
      Bender: It is very conspicuous and that among thousands of textile
      finds I have recorded from all over Scandinavia, only one or two were
      of felt. These were found with Roman Hemmoor bronze buckets and, I
      suppose, came to Scandinavia with these.

      Ausenda: What were the felts used for?

      Bender: I think felt was part of the range of textiles produced for
      the Roman army. I am working on the textiles from a Roman quarry in
      the Egyptian desert, the Mons Claudianus. Here some 50,000 to 100,000
      textiles have been found, dated within the first half of the second
      century.... The textiles comprise much felt, always uniform in
      quality, 3mm thick, sometimes dyed, eg. green, occasionally with
      elaborate applique in several colours. Some of the

      p.150

      felts were used for padded clothes, others probably served as saddle
      blankets for horses or donkeys. Felt may be used for a lot of
      purposes, but for some reason very little of it seems to have reached
      Scandinavia.

      --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "faern1" <natch@...> wrote:
      <<snip>>
      > I suggest wool felt for applique.
      <<snip>>
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