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Some Houppelande questions

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  • Sewmantoo
    Does any body know of extant, unearthed, preserved actua; Houppelandes? Where can I see them in books or on a web site? Or, are we all using artists portraits
    Message 1 of 6 , Oct 4, 2007
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      Does any body know of extant, unearthed, preserved actua;
      Houppelandes? Where can I see them in books or on a web site? Or, are
      we all using artists portraits as our sources for them?

      Labhruinn
    • unclrashid
      ... Not to my knowledge. Where can I see them in books or on a web site? Or, are ... Yep as far as I know. However, I am in the process of finishing an article
      Message 2 of 6 , Oct 4, 2007
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        --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "Sewmantoo" <sewmantoo@...> wrote:
        >
        > Does any body know of extant, unearthed, preserved actua;
        > Houppelandes?

        Not to my knowledge.


        Where can I see them in books or on a web site? Or, are
        > we all using artists portraits as our sources for them?

        Yep as far as I know.

        However, I am in the process of finishing an article on houpplende
        construction theory and here's a brief synopsis of my thoughts on
        their construction:

        This is an extant garment that predates the houppelande period, but
        I believe the cut of the body is a precurser that evolved into the
        one way houppelands could have been cut:

        http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol63.html

        Now if you take that body made out of 8 gores and expand it by
        making each piece as wide at the bottom as the full width of the
        fabric and put it back together, you get a garment with shoulder
        seams that curve up instead of being straight. But that's absurd.
        Nobody would do that.

        But I think they did do that, because

        A. it makes the fullness hang from the shoulder in pleats, rather
        than on the sides like just making a fat t-tunic.

        B. http://www.elizabethancostume.net/Tailors/pages/f89L.html
        there are several examples of post-houppelande garb that have curved
        shoulder seams. The tudor & elizabethan acedamic gown (not too far
        removed in time form houppelendes)

        I just finally finished lining the sleeves on the houp I made
        testing this curved shoulder seam, so I will have pics in a few days
        and thde article should be finsihed in about a week or two.

        Rashid

        PS:

        Cynthia Virtue has a couple goosd articles on another, but similar
        theory:

        http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

        http://www.virtue.to/articles/laurel/laurel_constr.html

        http://www.virtue.to/articles/bag_sleeve.html
      • quokkaqueen
        There is apparently a houpelande at Prague Castle. See: http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_26.htm You might be able to find out more
        Message 3 of 6 , Oct 5, 2007
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          There is apparently a houpelande at Prague Castle.
          See: http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_26.htm

          You might be able to find out more information if you contacted the
          castle directly, see their website: http://www.pribeh-hradu.cz/ (It's
          in English, so don't panic.)

          Hope the information helps!
          ~Asfridhr

          --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "Sewmantoo" <sewmantoo@...> wrote:
          >
          > Does any body know of extant, unearthed, preserved actua;
          > Houppelandes? Where can I see them in books or on a web site?
          <<<snipped>>>
        • Cathi M
          What a great site. I ve never seen it before and I can see many happy surfing hours here! Thanks Cathi ... From: quokkaqueen Date:
          Message 4 of 6 , Oct 6, 2007
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            What a great site. I've never seen it before and I can see many happy surfing hours here!
            Thanks

            Cathi

            ----- Original Message -----
            From: quokkaqueen <quokkaqueen@...>
            Date: Saturday, October 6, 2007 7:14 am
            Subject: [SCA-Garb] Re: Some Houppelande questions
            To: SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com

            > There is apparently a houpelande at Prague Castle.
            > See: http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_26.htm
            >
            > You might be able to find out more information if you contacted the
            > castle directly, see their website: http://www.pribeh-hradu.cz/ (It's
            > in English, so don't panic.)
            >
            > Hope the information helps!
            > ~Asfridhr




            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Sewmantoo
            I went on line and found what was said as extant houppelandes. The only part that was shown was the cuffs of the sleeves. So, I must bow to Rashid s knowledge
            Message 5 of 6 , Oct 6, 2007
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              I went on line and found what was said as extant houppelandes. The
              only part that was shown was the cuffs of the sleeves. So, I must
              bow to Rashid's knowledge here. Rashid, your idea of pieced sections
              is a good possibility. I have another possibility. If you start with
              Cynthia's Pattern, which is like doing a Henry VIII overcote, but
              then cut into the pieces from lower hem up to say mid chest level at
              6 inch intervals from the side seam. Then add in a triangle shaped
              gusset about six inches wide at the bottom. I did this for a
              dramatic effect on a cloak for a play. As it hung normal, it just
              looked like a pleated cloak, when the actor whipped it off and threw
              it, it was twice it's size.
              So, the second part of my theory is, kind artists. Alot of the
              portraits during this time that I have seen, seem to paint with a
              smoothness to their hand. Maybe they just did not paint in the
              seams. Making the houppelande look a flowing single piece of
              material. This came from a non-sewer, and since a painting is
              through the eyes of the painter, and his interpretation??!!

              Just thinking out loud here.

              Labhruinn
            • unclrashid
              Very cool. I d never seen that. If I had to guess I d say that s pretty close to a full circle of fabric based on how deep the pleats are. Hate those full
              Message 6 of 6 , Oct 6, 2007
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                Very cool. I'd never seen that. If I had to guess I'd say that's
                pretty close to a full circle of fabric based on how deep the pleats
                are. Hate those full circles... add an inch in length and it seems
                like it takes 5 yards extra fabric.

                Rashid

                --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "quokkaqueen" <quokkaqueen@...> wrote:
                >
                > There is apparently a houpelande at Prague Castle.
                > See: http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_26.htm
                >
                > You might be able to find out more information if you contacted the
                > castle directly, see their website: http://www.pribeh-hradu.cz/ (It's
                > in English, so don't panic.)
                >
                > Hope the information helps!
                > ~Asfridhr
                >
                > --- In SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com, "Sewmantoo" <sewmantoo@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Does any body know of extant, unearthed, preserved actua;
                > > Houppelandes? Where can I see them in books or on a web site?
                > <<<snipped>>>
                >
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