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Re: Woodcutting aggravation (aka "Lumber bummer")

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  • James W. Pratt Jr.
    The key to good cuts is a sharp blade. You my be using to much pressure and causing the blade to barrel cut. I use a band saw and with a dull blade, through
    Message 1 of 6 , Oct 8, 1999
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      The key to good cuts is a sharp blade. You my be using to much pressure and causing the blade to barrel cut. I use a band saw and with a dull blade, through thick (3-6 inches on the little saw and 14-26 inches on the big saw) and tough wood like maple and ash the blade can be pulled off 1 to 4 inches for each saw. On a jigsaw/scrollsaw which cuts even slower than a band saw the feed rate of a 3 inch thick piece will be about an inch a min or slower.

      Try a real slow feed rate with a 3-4 teeth per inch blade. Watch around knots the blade will want to bend the most and differently when the wood density(toughness) changes.

      Get to a library and get a book on tuning jigsaw/scrollsaws. It will help.

      James Cunningham


      I have been using the jigsaw/scrollsaw
      James W. Pratt Jr. wrote:

      What tool are you using when you get the "dips"? James Cunningham
      On several occasions I have been working with lumberyard staves (most recently poplar, maple, ash). Toolwise I've been using a scroll/jig saw, Stanley Surform, and various rasps. An ongoing problem I have been experiencing is what has led me to seek opinions from others. The problem is that when I am cutting the wood (1" x 3" - 4" x 6' usually) I have an ongoing unintentional "dips" at various areas of the board. I have tried changing blade designs ie: "smooth-cutting.... rough-cutting, wood-cutting specific... etc. and am still experiencing dips. Any suggestions, ideas, or experiences that are beneficial will be greatly appreciated. Please reply privately or on the list if you feel others would benefit from it.
    • Håkan Hedrén
      ... Not exactly true....it depends on where in the tree your stave comes from or rather, the desired growth ring. Higly crowned staves (cut near the
      Message 2 of 6 , Oct 30, 1999
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        D Humberson wrote:

        > From: "D Humberson" <dhumbers@...>
        >
        > Milord,
        >
        > If you are just trying for a smooth flat surface, try a long-body plane.
        > They have various names, but basically are the ones at least a foot long.
        > The longer plane body makes for smoother, flatter surfaces.
        >
        > If you are working on the back of a bow, flat is not the question: you want
        > to find and follow a single growth ring the entire length of the bow. For
        > that, a flat base spokeshave is a much better tool.

        <snip>

        Not exactly true....it depends on where in the tree your stave comes from or
        rather, the desired growth ring.
        Higly crowned staves (cut near the core with a severe curvature of the growth
        ring) will often benefit from a flatter surface even though growth rings are
        violated. The grain has to parallell the length of the limb as much as possible
        though to make a durable bow.. Last but not least the length of the bow and its
        draw weight plays an important factor as well.

        Having said that I must agree on the long planes for a flat surface. For
        working your way down to a single growth ring, try a not-too-dull knife. It
        works miracles on many conifers, slicing right through the spongy early wood but
        riding on the harder late wood.

        To prevent the spokeshave/drawknife from doing "dip-cuts", have you tried
        angling it a little sideways ? It has helped me a few times, but areas near
        pins/knots are tricky most of the time, that's when i tend to switch to the
        knife.

        Angus.
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