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re: Hun!!!

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  • Matthew Legge
    Hi All, Just a general query to those who shoot the recurves made by Kassai.... How do you work out where the arrow pass and hence the nocking point should be?
    Message 1 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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      Hi All,

      Just a general query to those who shoot the recurves made by Kassai....

      How do you work out where the arrow pass and hence the nocking point should
      be?

      Any insight would be appreciated.

      YIS

      Maidiu,
      Aneala
    • Matthew Legge
      Hello Again, Sorry, in my last message I left out the fact that I have one of Kassai s Mongol bows which lookks like it is symmetric. Currently I have the
      Message 2 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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        Hello Again,

        Sorry, in my last message I left out the fact that I have one of Kassai's
        Mongol bows which lookks like it is symmetric.

        Currently I have the arrow about 25mm lower than the bottom of the binding,
        just above the handle. This is most comfortable for me, however some of the
        photos of the bows at www.horsebows.com show some of the archers having an
        arrow pass in the middle of the bow.

        YIS

        Maidiu,
        Aneala
      • SMuth22664@aol.com
        I ve been shooting a Kassai Mongol bows for about 2 years now and have discoverd a couple of things. First off, the ones I have had draw significantly
        Message 3 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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          I've been shooting a Kassai "Mongol" bows for about 2 years now and have
          discoverd a couple of things. First off, the ones I have had draw
          significantly lighter than they are marked. The first was marked 42# at 28"
          and drew 32# at 28" (the bow scale we used is very reliable and has been used
          on longbows, recurves, and compounds with great acuracy). I complained to
          the merchant I got it from and he replaced it (very politely and without a
          fuss) with the heaviest one he had at the time which was marked 52#, it draws
          44# at 28". I use arrows spined 40 - 45# and have had good luck with it. I
          tried some 55# arrows and had a lot of problems.

          Another thinig is that canting (tilting) the bow really helps!

          I shoot european style (one over, two under) with the arrow at the very top
          of the "handle" section of the bow. The leading ends of my fletches are
          whipped (wrapped with thread) so I can shoot off my bare hand without picking
          bits of feather out of my flesh. I have found that tipping my bow hand
          downto the front with regards to the bow allows the fletching to pass over
          the base of my thumb and not the base of my index finger. This seems to help
          accuracy and prevent srcatches. I don't have a nock point on the string, I
          just kind of put the arrow where it feels best. I thought this would hinder
          my speed rounds but it actually seems to have helped.

          Hope this helps.
          Ottokar
        • James C Wolf
          Further thoughts on the Hun bow, on just having returned from the range-wax the upper and lower horns, just below and around the string holes-it will increase
          Message 4 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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            Further thoughts on the Hun bow, on just having returned from the
            range-wax the upper and lower horns, just below and around the string
            holes-it will increase string life as the string wears/rubs in this area.
            Watch the wrappings on the string at top and bottom- they come loose and
            wear-wax helps here. The string wraps above and below the grip can come
            undone, watch for this. A little super glue stopped the unravelling on
            mine, at a cost to the looks.I read that the Turks placed a piece of
            Mother of Pearl on the grip under the arrow path to prevent wear on the
            wood- I used a piece of abalone shell. I fitted it to the grip, rounded
            the edges off, then used rubber cement and monofilament to tie it in
            place. I'll have to move it when I get a thumb ring, so permanence isn't
            wanted.The only way I have found to string it is by stepping thru and
            bending behind the leg-be careful! If you get hasty or careless, this bow
            WILL crack you solidly up side the head! I put the long(eared) end down
            and string up the lower end-the ears give some guidance and location for
            the "lower" string . Tie a piece of string or leather around this end,
            as it can come off and then all the work of bending and hooking up is
            wasted. This is a fun bow to shoot, and I wish you well with it. I love
            mine, and have found it worth every cent.
            FELIX
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