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Re: Hun!!!

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  • James C Wolf
    I shoot a 50lb Hun I got at Lilies War two years ago, and it is the most fun, and frustrating, bow I ve owned. Since the riser is straight, without a shelf,
    Message 1 of 7 , Sep 21, 1999
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      I shoot a 50lb Hun I got at Lilies War two years ago, and it is the most
      fun, and frustrating, bow I've owned. Since the riser is straight,
      without a shelf, Kaz helped me get a `seiper ' (leather cover to keep
      fletching out of the top of my hand) made by a leather merchant. It
      worked, but I found problems in shot to shot consistency as it moved on
      the hand each time I nocked. I saw and talked to a gentle at this Lilies
      who had added a ring of leather to his Mongol bow, and with this in mind,
      I stopped at a leather booth and bought a thick piece of leather to make
      a shelf with, and a long piece of suede to wrap it and hold it on. The
      difference in shooting was immense, with a great tightening of groups.
      However,the latest issue of PRIMITIVE ARCHER gives instructions on how to
      wrap arrow fletches, so my next batch will have this, and maby the shelf
      can go.
      I shoot with the Mediterranean style, one over and two under, using a
      tab-it works for me. A friend has promised a thumb ring when he has time
      to make one, and I look forward to trying the style. I have found 60lb
      spine shafts seem to give the best results, and the nocking point is
      pretty far up the string-the owner of the local range helped me set it,
      and was surprised at how high it had to be to shoot right. As to aiming,
      the only thing I can say is practice with the bow, and find where it
      shoots, then adapt to it-I find I aim low at 20, about half as low at 30,
      and on the bull at 40, but work out your own way-mine works for me.I tilt
      the bow to the right and lean my head to look over and down the shaft.
      Good luck with a really nice bow! FELIX
    • Matthew Legge
      Hi All, Just a general query to those who shoot the recurves made by Kassai.... How do you work out where the arrow pass and hence the nocking point should be?
      Message 2 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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        Hi All,

        Just a general query to those who shoot the recurves made by Kassai....

        How do you work out where the arrow pass and hence the nocking point should
        be?

        Any insight would be appreciated.

        YIS

        Maidiu,
        Aneala
      • Matthew Legge
        Hello Again, Sorry, in my last message I left out the fact that I have one of Kassai s Mongol bows which lookks like it is symmetric. Currently I have the
        Message 3 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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          Hello Again,

          Sorry, in my last message I left out the fact that I have one of Kassai's
          Mongol bows which lookks like it is symmetric.

          Currently I have the arrow about 25mm lower than the bottom of the binding,
          just above the handle. This is most comfortable for me, however some of the
          photos of the bows at www.horsebows.com show some of the archers having an
          arrow pass in the middle of the bow.

          YIS

          Maidiu,
          Aneala
        • SMuth22664@aol.com
          I ve been shooting a Kassai Mongol bows for about 2 years now and have discoverd a couple of things. First off, the ones I have had draw significantly
          Message 4 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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            I've been shooting a Kassai "Mongol" bows for about 2 years now and have
            discoverd a couple of things. First off, the ones I have had draw
            significantly lighter than they are marked. The first was marked 42# at 28"
            and drew 32# at 28" (the bow scale we used is very reliable and has been used
            on longbows, recurves, and compounds with great acuracy). I complained to
            the merchant I got it from and he replaced it (very politely and without a
            fuss) with the heaviest one he had at the time which was marked 52#, it draws
            44# at 28". I use arrows spined 40 - 45# and have had good luck with it. I
            tried some 55# arrows and had a lot of problems.

            Another thinig is that canting (tilting) the bow really helps!

            I shoot european style (one over, two under) with the arrow at the very top
            of the "handle" section of the bow. The leading ends of my fletches are
            whipped (wrapped with thread) so I can shoot off my bare hand without picking
            bits of feather out of my flesh. I have found that tipping my bow hand
            downto the front with regards to the bow allows the fletching to pass over
            the base of my thumb and not the base of my index finger. This seems to help
            accuracy and prevent srcatches. I don't have a nock point on the string, I
            just kind of put the arrow where it feels best. I thought this would hinder
            my speed rounds but it actually seems to have helped.

            Hope this helps.
            Ottokar
          • James C Wolf
            Further thoughts on the Hun bow, on just having returned from the range-wax the upper and lower horns, just below and around the string holes-it will increase
            Message 5 of 7 , Sep 22, 1999
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              Further thoughts on the Hun bow, on just having returned from the
              range-wax the upper and lower horns, just below and around the string
              holes-it will increase string life as the string wears/rubs in this area.
              Watch the wrappings on the string at top and bottom- they come loose and
              wear-wax helps here. The string wraps above and below the grip can come
              undone, watch for this. A little super glue stopped the unravelling on
              mine, at a cost to the looks.I read that the Turks placed a piece of
              Mother of Pearl on the grip under the arrow path to prevent wear on the
              wood- I used a piece of abalone shell. I fitted it to the grip, rounded
              the edges off, then used rubber cement and monofilament to tie it in
              place. I'll have to move it when I get a thumb ring, so permanence isn't
              wanted.The only way I have found to string it is by stepping thru and
              bending behind the leg-be careful! If you get hasty or careless, this bow
              WILL crack you solidly up side the head! I put the long(eared) end down
              and string up the lower end-the ears give some guidance and location for
              the "lower" string . Tie a piece of string or leather around this end,
              as it can come off and then all the work of bending and hooking up is
              wasted. This is a fun bow to shoot, and I wish you well with it. I love
              mine, and have found it worth every cent.
              FELIX
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