[SCA-Archery] RE: Width of stock at crossbow nut
>I would think it would depend on how the nut is mounted, where the force ofGreetings:
>the pod is being felt. If the nut is mounted on a shaft, and not in
>contact with the front of the socket, then force of the pod in on this
>shaft so the side plates of the crossbow would need to be thicker to handle
>the force. If the nut is contacting the front of the socket, essentially
>using it for a bearing surface, then there is virtually no force on any
>shaft which would be there only as a retaining rod to keep the nut in the
>socket and the side plates could be thinner.
>Marcus von Gallen
>COA, Scorpions Hollow
Period x-bows didn't use shafted nuts. They used the fore surface of
the nut socket as a bearing, thus spreading the load around, instead
of concentrating it as shafted nuts do. As far as thickness goes,
you can indeed do just exactly what the original poster suggested,
and just drill through, and add metal side plates. Many SCA
crossbows are done exactly this way.
Speaking as someone who's done the "forstner bit-then plug" routine,
please remember to turn your plug out of the thickness of a board, so
that the grain runs across the plug, rather than down its
cylindrical axis. (It'll match better that way, both in looks, and
(more importantly) in the direction it expands with moisture.)
I usually make my bows very curvey and thicker at the lock, but
that's more a style issue: I *like* curvey bows, and it's a great way
to show off the fact that they weren't made from 2x4's.
My surmise is that the period bows that were so much thicker at the
lock were done this way for several reasons. (A) the curve makes a
pretty good hand rest. (B) style & (C) to provide support for the
spanning device, which typically had bearings out beyond the lock,
and therefore all the load had to transfer through that area. Thus
it needed to be beefy enough to support the frequently *serious*
The paranoid fears that there is a dark, evil conspiracy attempting
to control the world. The cynic fears they already have.
> Speaking as someone who's done the "forstnerWhat I do, is to drill through with a forstner bit and
> bit-then plug" routine,
> please remember to turn your plug out of the
> thickness of a board, so
> that the grain runs across the plug, rather than
> down its
> cylindrical axis. (It'll match better that way,
> both in looks, and
> (more importantly) in the direction it expands with
then inlet around the hole to about a 1/4" depth. I
then inly a piece of contrasting wood to create a
decorative side plate. This produces a very pretty and
stable socket area. I learned this procedure by
looking at Master Iolos bows.
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