RE: Width of stock at crossbow nut
- I would think it would depend on how the nut is mounted, where the force of
the pod is being felt. If the nut is mounted on a shaft, and not in
contact with the front of the socket, then force of the pod in on this
shaft so the side plates of the crossbow would need to be thicker to handle
the force. If the nut is contacting the front of the socket, essentially
using it for a bearing surface, then there is virtually no force on any
shaft which would be there only as a retaining rod to keep the nut in the
socket and the side plates could be thinner.
Marcus von Gallen
COA, Scorpions Hollow
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 09:15:45 -0500
From: Siegfried Sebastian Faust <eliwhite@...>
Subject: Width of stock at crossbow nut
In my inquisitive mind, I'd been pondering something, and wanted to know if
others had pondered the same?
Most all roller nut crossbows I have seen have a stock built such that the
stock is wider than the nut at that point. For example, my own that I have
built has a 1.5" stock with a 1.25" nut, leaving 1/8" on either side.
Now I have seen many methods used to make the creation of this socket
easier (such as using a forstner bit to drill it from one side, then
'replace' the one side with a plug; or drilling it all the way through then
replacing both sides, etc.)
But something hit me. some crossbows I have seen (both period, and
recreations) have VERY LITTLE, if hardly any of a width there. Mostly
those that have nice rounded sides, and therefore come up to a 'point' at
So my thought was ... is there a NEED, (other than 'look') for having width
there? If you only made your stock 1.25" wide, could you drill the whole
thing, put the nut in, place metal side plates on the sides, and it work
The only possible drawback that I have thought of is that the string would
'slightly' ride on the metal sideplate, but as long as it was nice and
smooth, I don't see a problem myself.
Lord Siegfried Sebastian Faust Baronial Web Minister & Archery Marshal
Barony of Highland Foorde http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org/
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>I would think it would depend on how the nut is mounted, where the force ofGreetings:
>the pod is being felt. If the nut is mounted on a shaft, and not in
>contact with the front of the socket, then force of the pod in on this
>shaft so the side plates of the crossbow would need to be thicker to handle
>the force. If the nut is contacting the front of the socket, essentially
>using it for a bearing surface, then there is virtually no force on any
>shaft which would be there only as a retaining rod to keep the nut in the
>socket and the side plates could be thinner.
>Marcus von Gallen
>COA, Scorpions Hollow
Period x-bows didn't use shafted nuts. They used the fore surface of
the nut socket as a bearing, thus spreading the load around, instead
of concentrating it as shafted nuts do. As far as thickness goes,
you can indeed do just exactly what the original poster suggested,
and just drill through, and add metal side plates. Many SCA
crossbows are done exactly this way.
Speaking as someone who's done the "forstner bit-then plug" routine,
please remember to turn your plug out of the thickness of a board, so
that the grain runs across the plug, rather than down its
cylindrical axis. (It'll match better that way, both in looks, and
(more importantly) in the direction it expands with moisture.)
I usually make my bows very curvey and thicker at the lock, but
that's more a style issue: I *like* curvey bows, and it's a great way
to show off the fact that they weren't made from 2x4's.
My surmise is that the period bows that were so much thicker at the
lock were done this way for several reasons. (A) the curve makes a
pretty good hand rest. (B) style & (C) to provide support for the
spanning device, which typically had bearings out beyond the lock,
and therefore all the load had to transfer through that area. Thus
it needed to be beefy enough to support the frequently *serious*
The paranoid fears that there is a dark, evil conspiracy attempting
to control the world. The cynic fears they already have.
> Speaking as someone who's done the "forstnerWhat I do, is to drill through with a forstner bit and
> bit-then plug" routine,
> please remember to turn your plug out of the
> thickness of a board, so
> that the grain runs across the plug, rather than
> down its
> cylindrical axis. (It'll match better that way,
> both in looks, and
> (more importantly) in the direction it expands with
then inlet around the hole to about a 1/4" depth. I
then inly a piece of contrasting wood to create a
decorative side plate. This produces a very pretty and
stable socket area. I learned this procedure by
looking at Master Iolos bows.
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