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Re: [SCA-Archery] Digest Number 647

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  • Simon Hondy
    I usually dip a white crown, and crest, may not be totally period, but I have read references for coloring fletches, and one gentle made mention of a picture
    Message 1 of 3 , Jun 10, 2001
      I usually dip a white crown, and crest, may not be totally period, but I
      have read references for coloring fletches, and one gentle made mention of a
      picture of some Romans who's shafts were colored. In my own mind I am
      making these arrows for tourney, of course they will look pretty! As for
      the shaft I use a mixture I got off this list from Lord Loric MacLoughlain .

      Here is the recipe and Quoting Lord Loric::

      "Greetings, As a worker of wood I can say that I use a mixture of equal
      parts of Tung oil, Boiled Linseed oil and Spirits of Gum Turpentine. Do not
      use Mineral Spirits as it will dry out the wood. You will need to wipe this
      mixture into the wood and let it soak it into the grain, you can even steel
      wool the wood between coats ( very gently ) to increase the smoothness of
      the coating. To help keep the shafts and bows slick you can use a Furniture
      polish that has Lemon Oil in it. Stay away from the waxy types especially if
      you are using this on a crossbow ramp as it will increase the drag.
      Lord Loric MacLoughlain "

      I will say the this keeps the cedar color only a tad more golden I think
      this is due to the tung oil, which is marvelous stuff in its own right. And
      stuff does not stick to the shafts either, not dirt, card board, nor this
      weird stuff used at my local indoor range. Where as my shafts with
      polyurethane I get stuff gunked up along the front of the shaft. And a
      light steel wool and a tad more 'juice' they look good again. I will say
      unless you make lots of arrows plan to share with your friends, this stuff
      goes along way, and the container sizes I found I have nearly a gallon of

      Simon Hondy
      Baile na Scolairi

      > Hi Rhianna -
      > We brush on the tung oil with those cheap little foam brushes, let them
      > about 5 minutes, & wipe off the excess with paper towels. For the
      > polyurethane, we have a dip-tube & place a sponge with a hole in it on
      > we plunge the shaft into the tube through the hole in the sponge, & as the
      > shaft is pulled out, most of the excess is removed by the sponge; we let
      > the shaft set again for about 5 minutes, then wipe off the excess. We do
      > both seal coats twice. We choose the non-glossy finishes so the resulting
      > arrows don't look excessively modern (ie: not too automotive shiny!).
      > Beeswax is a good option, & so is bowling alley wax, but both require more
      > "elbow grease" than we can invest when doing large quantities. Great
      > choices for doing your own personal sets though!
      > -- Ygraine
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Connie Leppo
      > Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 9:22 AM
      > To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Digest Number 647
      > Ygraine -
      > Do you dip the top of the shafts in polyurethane or brush it on? I've
      > been using a beeswax base on my shafts after fletching. Fletches are
      > glued to the bare shaft.
      > Always looking to improve my arrow making while keeping with a more
      > period look. Thanks.
      > Rhianna of AElfwine
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