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Re: [SCA-Archery] Digest Number 647

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  • Connie Leppo
    Ygraine - Do you dip the top of the shafts in polyurethane or brush it on? I ve been using a beeswax base on my shafts after fletching. Fletches are glued to
    Message 1 of 3 , Jun 10, 2001
      Ygraine -

      Do you dip the top of the shafts in polyurethane or brush it on? I've
      been using a beeswax base on my shafts after fletching. Fletches are
      glued to the bare shaft.
      Always looking to improve my arrow making while keeping with a more
      period look. Thanks.

      Rhianna of AElfwine
    • Susan Kell
      Hi Rhianna - We brush on the tung oil with those cheap little foam brushes, let them set about 5 minutes, & wipe off the excess with paper towels. For the
      Message 2 of 3 , Jun 10, 2001
        Hi Rhianna -

        We brush on the tung oil with those cheap little foam brushes, let them set
        about 5 minutes, & wipe off the excess with paper towels. For the
        polyurethane, we have a dip-tube & place a sponge with a hole in it on top;
        we plunge the shaft into the tube through the hole in the sponge, & as the
        shaft is pulled out, most of the excess is removed by the sponge; we let
        the shaft set again for about 5 minutes, then wipe off the excess. We do
        both seal coats twice. We choose the non-glossy finishes so the resulting
        arrows don't look excessively modern (ie: not too automotive shiny!).

        Beeswax is a good option, & so is bowling alley wax, but both require more
        "elbow grease" than we can invest when doing large quantities. Great
        choices for doing your own personal sets though!

        -- Ygraine

        -----Original Message-----
        From: Connie Leppo
        Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 9:22 AM
        To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Digest Number 647

        Ygraine -

        Do you dip the top of the shafts in polyurethane or brush it on? I've
        been using a beeswax base on my shafts after fletching. Fletches are
        glued to the bare shaft.
        Always looking to improve my arrow making while keeping with a more
        period look. Thanks.

        Rhianna of AElfwine
      • Simon Hondy
        I usually dip a white crown, and crest, may not be totally period, but I have read references for coloring fletches, and one gentle made mention of a picture
        Message 3 of 3 , Jun 10, 2001
          I usually dip a white crown, and crest, may not be totally period, but I
          have read references for coloring fletches, and one gentle made mention of a
          picture of some Romans who's shafts were colored. In my own mind I am
          making these arrows for tourney, of course they will look pretty! As for
          the shaft I use a mixture I got off this list from Lord Loric MacLoughlain .

          Here is the recipe and Quoting Lord Loric::

          "Greetings, As a worker of wood I can say that I use a mixture of equal
          parts of Tung oil, Boiled Linseed oil and Spirits of Gum Turpentine. Do not
          use Mineral Spirits as it will dry out the wood. You will need to wipe this
          mixture into the wood and let it soak it into the grain, you can even steel
          wool the wood between coats ( very gently ) to increase the smoothness of
          the coating. To help keep the shafts and bows slick you can use a Furniture
          polish that has Lemon Oil in it. Stay away from the waxy types especially if
          you are using this on a crossbow ramp as it will increase the drag.
          Lord Loric MacLoughlain "

          I will say the this keeps the cedar color only a tad more golden I think
          this is due to the tung oil, which is marvelous stuff in its own right. And
          stuff does not stick to the shafts either, not dirt, card board, nor this
          weird stuff used at my local indoor range. Where as my shafts with
          polyurethane I get stuff gunked up along the front of the shaft. And a
          light steel wool and a tad more 'juice' they look good again. I will say
          unless you make lots of arrows plan to share with your friends, this stuff
          goes along way, and the container sizes I found I have nearly a gallon of
          it.

          Simon Hondy
          Baile na Scolairi
          Midlands

          > Hi Rhianna -
          >
          > We brush on the tung oil with those cheap little foam brushes, let them
          set
          > about 5 minutes, & wipe off the excess with paper towels. For the
          > polyurethane, we have a dip-tube & place a sponge with a hole in it on
          top;
          > we plunge the shaft into the tube through the hole in the sponge, & as the
          > shaft is pulled out, most of the excess is removed by the sponge; we let
          > the shaft set again for about 5 minutes, then wipe off the excess. We do
          > both seal coats twice. We choose the non-glossy finishes so the resulting
          > arrows don't look excessively modern (ie: not too automotive shiny!).
          >
          > Beeswax is a good option, & so is bowling alley wax, but both require more
          > "elbow grease" than we can invest when doing large quantities. Great
          > choices for doing your own personal sets though!
          >
          > -- Ygraine
          >
          > -----Original Message-----
          > From: Connie Leppo
          > Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 9:22 AM
          > To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Digest Number 647
          >
          > Ygraine -
          >
          > Do you dip the top of the shafts in polyurethane or brush it on? I've
          > been using a beeswax base on my shafts after fletching. Fletches are
          > glued to the bare shaft.
          > Always looking to improve my arrow making while keeping with a more
          > period look. Thanks.
          >
          > Rhianna of AElfwine
          >
          >
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