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Re: [SCA-Archery] Re: Fletching with oil finishes

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  • jrosswebb1@webtv.net
    Dear Simon, This wasn t a criticism of your practices which are fine. I m just offering an alternative for those of us (like me) that want to get our arrows
    Message 1 of 1 , Jan 29, 2001
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      Dear Simon,
      This wasn't a criticism of your practices which are fine. I'm just
      offering an alternative for those of us (like me) that want to get our
      arrows done already and go out there shooting. Linseed oil is one of the
      oils used to make oil paint, others are walnut oil and poppy oil.
      Leonardo preferred walnut ( his choice). Tempering colors with oil
      didn't become a practice until the early 15th century and there is a lot
      of debate over who is responsible for it's development, but most
      scholars point to Jan van Eyck. Previous to that time, the common paints
      were some form of tempera (not to be confused with modern poster paint).
      Temperas were commonly made from the yolk of an egg, but in
      illumination, they would whip up a batter from the white called: Glare.
      Other temperas used in the renaissance time and earlier were
      casein(milk based). These all are natural emulsions( a blend of waters
      and natural oils) that dry to the touch very quickly, but can take
      several months for the oily parts to dry thoroughly. I have a lot of
      respect for craftsman that will put that amount of time into a dozen or
      so arrows. If you wanted to go totally period and were a little less
      patient then you could use distemper (pigments bound by a hot hide glue,
      rabbit skin or parchment glue). For all of the tempera and distemper
      techniques, you grind the pigment into a thick paste with water first
      using a muller and slab or a pharmacists grade mortar and pestal, then
      you would mix your colors and add your binder as you painted. (a lot of
      respect)
      A siccative is a chemical additive that accelerates the hardening
      and film forming. Commonly it is the addition of heavy metals, lead
      being the most common, and some by products of copper. In today's
      society we have preparations called "japan dryer" and "cobalt dryer". I
      won't say anything more about the safety of these except, please read
      the labels.
      That's how you would finish arrows in the flavor of being period.
      I don't do any of this on my arrows, my paintings, yes. I use acrylic
      tole painting paints that I buy in a crafts store. They're cheap and
      when dry have the appearance of casein. I dip my arrows repeatedly in
      verathane and I fletch with duco. I'm using self nocks now which I
      re-enforce with a wrapping of fast flite string material which is also
      what I use to tie on the fletches after I fletch them on my jigs. I have
      recently been strengthening the self nocks by dipping them in a
      penetrating epoxy that I buy through a marine supply store before I do
      any of the wrapping and crowning , etc.
      I told you I'm impatient. I spend a lot of time making arrows as it is,
      and I like them to be pretty but, If I had to put months into making
      arrows, I'd be afraid to shoot them. I sometimes have to make arrows for
      myself every 90 days, because I've broken too many to have a matched
      set. I make 18 - 24 at a time, and when it gets down around 12, that's
      not enough.
      Sorry this is so long and wordy, I'm home nursing a really bad
      illness,it must be the medication.
      "Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like bananas. thanks Groucho"
      Cheers,
      -Geoffrei


      http://community.webtv.net/jrosswebb1/EASTWINDStribal
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