Re: [SCA-Archery] Re: Fletching with oil finishes
- I for one do not know of any better way, and understood that linseed oil was
used to make 'oil paint'.
What is a siccative?
I use the (as I have mentioned before) 3 equal part mixture of Tung oil,
Boiled Linseed oil, and Spirit of gum Turpentine. As I got that recipe off
of this list when discussing arrow protecting stuff.
What would you suggest as a substance to make a pigment stick to an arrow
shaft to color and protect it? Primarily in the use of crowning and/or
cresting. Pigments are not a problem, I know an excellent scribe who has
the knowledge of colors, and reactivity and lethality in her head. so
pigments are not really an issue. What I am mainly curious about is, what
'stuff' would be the most appropriate to make pigments stick on an arrow?
An possibly what would one use to prep the wood, and what layers of what
materials might you use?
I really am curious, I have limited funding so I am not running out to buy a
bunch of books, but references, and leads are great. Especially if these
books might be in libraries. I have worked on searching the internet, not
finding a lot. And am getting ready to start searching the state library
system. Never thought I would get this nearly fanatical about SCA, nor a
'derned stick' but it is fun and I am curious. if I am going to hand cut a
nock why not get as close as I can with the rest of the arrow?
Baile na Scolairi
> Greetings all of you fellow fletchers and arrowsmiths,
> I am curious why people making arrows in the medieval manner are
> so stuck on using linseed oil.
> Yes it is an excellent sealer, but
> without the addition of some form of siccative it will take several
> weeks to dry and harden thoroughly. Varnishes from balsams and resins
> were common in period, dry much faster and are also good sealers.
> Shellac can be used to seal the wood first, but should never be used as
> the only sealer as it becomes soft and slighly soluable in water under
> pressure(such as shooting into a target). But once you put the top coats
> of varnish on, there should be no problem.
> If you are having difficulty getting the glue to stick to either
> tung oil or linseed oil, make sure the oil is thoroughly dry, if it
> still doesn't stick, try another glue. If you don't want to use a
> siccative, then a natural way to accelerate the drying time of oils is
> heat. Not too hot, somewhere around 100 degrees far.( a safe and
> conservative temperature) will speed things along. Too hot and you could
> get some cracking and damage to the wood.
> Do not use heat to accelerate the drying time of varnishes, they dry
> just fine on their own. Just don't do it in a damp place or you'll get
> bloom under the varnish and it won't dry properly. Bloom is trapped
> moisture under the varnish and appears as cloudy hazy patches.
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