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Re: [SCA-Archery] What to do when you are always overspined?

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  • William Davis
    Simple enough. Step 1)  Which kind of bow are you using?  Shelved Recurve or Shelved Longbow, that are center shot, ie the string lines up with the inner
    Message 1 of 22 , Mar 6, 2013
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      Simple enough.

      Step 1)  Which kind of bow are you using?  Shelved Recurve or Shelved Longbow, that are center shot, ie the string lines up with the inner edge of the shelf (more or less), you use the columns on the left of the table.  If you are using an unshelved longbow, or other bow where the edge of the bow and the bowstring do NOT align, then you use the columns on the right side of the table.

      Step 2)  What is your point weight?  Most people use either the 100 or 125 grain points, some may have lighter, in which case you will have to extrapolate from this chart, and some use heavier.  Go down under the Point Grain Weight column until you come to the box with the draw weight of your bow.

      Step 3)  Now move to the right (or left, as the case may be) until you reach a box under your arrow length.  That box will tell you the spine weight you want for your arrows.

      Step 4)  Buy arrows.

      Step 5)  Practice, practice, practice, and practice some more.  If you are a beginner, or novice, you may want to even consider lessons.

      One thing I have done, which I find helps.  I made a simple chart with bunch of roundel targets on it (I got 20 on a standard 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper).  I numbered the boxes 1 - 20. I then took a sharpie and numbered my arrows, 1 - 18 (1 don't have 20 of the same).  I then went to the range, and using the same group of 6 arrows, I shot an end. Using the box number that corresponds to the arrow I shot, I mark where each arrow hit.  I did that 12 or 15 ends, with the same arrows.  When finished I have a record of where each arrow went.  I can now see a number of things.  Which arrows fly truest.  It shows grouping.  Some may fly a bit left, or right, or up, or down.  Do the same thing with all your arrows.  You can now sort by how they fly.  If you have several that go a little left, put them together, and use them together, that way you know, more or less, where they are going to go, and you can compensate with your aim point.  Likewise with any other direction.  
      If however, all the arrows are scattered all over the target, then you are probably doing something wrong with your mechanics, and should seek assistance identifying the problem.  Then revert to step 5 above.

      Hope that helps

      Gwilym


      --- On Wed, 3/6/13, stalek@... <stalek@...> wrote:

      From: stalek@... <stalek@...>
      Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] What to do when you are always overspined?
      To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Wednesday, March 6, 2013, 1:26 PM

       

      I have been shooting for a number of years, but I have never been a consistent archer (my arrows are always all over the place). I was always under the impression that the spine of your arrow should be within 2 to 3 pounds of you bow weight. I looked at the chart, but I need someone who knows how to read it to explain to me how to determine what spine weight arrow I should be using.

      Eoin


      From: "William Davis" <willied0296@...>
      To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2013 6:46:01 AM
      Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] What to do when you are always overspined?

       

      I too had a problem with arrow spine when I first started shooting.  I had 35 lb bow, so figured I should be using 35 lb arrows.  I actually bought 40-45 and they worked okay, but I too had to aim at the outside edge of the black ring, to achieve a center hit.  My next set of arrows, turned out to be poorly spined, ranging from 33 lb up to 50 lb, so they were all over the target.  I decided to change arrow suppliers and in doing so, discovered the following chart, which shows that I should be using arrows spined at around 50 lbs, so I ordered 50-55s.  My aim point is now dead center.  

      http://www.allwoodarrows.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1831

      If the link does not work, just go to Allwoodarrows.com, and click the spine chart link at bottom of the header banner.

      Gwilym of Fflint


    • The Greys
      As long as we are discussing spine let me share what I have learned about the subject and arrow making. First the basic rule is for longbow match spine to
      Message 2 of 22 , Mar 7, 2013
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        As long as we are discussing spine let me share what I have learned about the subject and arrow making. First the basic rule is for longbow match spine to draw weight of bow. For recurve add 10 pounds to the spine. Thus 45 pound longbow, spine 45 - 50. 45 pound recurve, 55 - 60 spine. However, this is only a starting position as technique may cause need for more or less spine.

        Next is the issue of how spine is measured. It is measured on 28 inch centers. Thus a 40 - 45 spine shaft is such only if 28 inches long. Every inch added reduces spine by 5 pounds. Every inch less than 28 increases spine by 5 pounds. Every coat of finish added to the shaft adds back 5 pounds of spine. Thus cutting a 45 - 50 spined shaft to 30 inches reduces it's spine to 35 - 40. Add two coats of finish and you are back to 45 - 50.

        Next is how you orient the nock to the grain of the shaft. Basically the string/nock should be perpendicular to the grain of the shaft. This way you get maximum stiffness out of the shaft - read here, more accurate spine - and consistent flex between shafts/arrows.

        Point weight is the next factor. The basic rule here is 10 % FOC (Forward Of Center) for completed arrows. However, a heavier point tends to cause the shaft to hit harder (more mass) but drop faster. A lighter point, tends towards less impact (less mass) and floats a bit more - longer distance.

        And lastly fletching. Straight fletching = less drag. Helicoil fletching = most drag. Diagonal fletching = between straight and helicoil. All shafts spin in flight. How much spin you get is determined by how the fletches are oriented on the shaft, helicoil most, straight least. However, the jury is not in on spin increasing accuracy of the shot. However, air drag on fletching is seldom an issue in the SCA due to the shorter distances we shot. If you are going for flight arrows then straight fletching with very small, i.e. height from shaft, fletches.

        And we haven't even gotten into how well bow and arrow are set up, i.e. shafts "swimming" sideways or waggling up and down during flight. All issues that could cause the need to aim way off center of what you are trying to hit.

        And who would have thought a string on a bent stick flinging another stick would be so complex?!?

        Kog

        --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, William Davis <willied0296@...> wrote:
        >
        > I too had a problem with arrow spine when I first started shooting.  I had 35 lb bow, so figured I should be using 35 lb arrows.  I actually bought 40-45 and they worked okay, but I too had to aim at the outside edge of the black ring, to achieve a center hit.  My next set of arrows, turned out to be poorly spined, ranging from 33 lb up to 50 lb, so they were all over the target.  I decided to change arrow suppliers and in doing so, discovered the following chart, which shows that I should be using arrows spined at around 50 lbs, so I ordered 50-55s.  My aim point is now dead center.  
        > http://www.allwoodarrows.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1831
        > If the link does not work, just go to Allwoodarrows.com, and click the spine chart link at bottom of the header banner.
        > Gwilym of Fflint
        >
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