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Legal / Stable / Butts: Was Target Height

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  • JDS
    Hello All (I think I skimmed all the posts) ( I ramble on about a few things in the last week) Legal or Not: Always be careful, be aware. I will not advise
    Message 1 of 6 , Mar 3, 2013
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      Hello All

      (I think I skimmed all the posts)
      ( I ramble on about a few things in the last week)



      Legal or Not: Always be careful, be aware.

      I will not advise you to break a law.

      I do not want any one Hurt or Fined / Arrested.

      Law Yes:
      Some places do classify bows,sling shots,
      blow guns,pellet/BB guns and other diverse
      (FUN) things with firearms for the sake of law.




      One of the First rules/top 10 of shooting
      is know your back drop & over shoot.
      (& know your travel distance)

      A board fence will not stop a bullet
      (maybe not an arrow either )
      (some of the Good pellet guns punch right through too)

      & an arrow can travel
      100's of Yards / Meters
      (York Round, 100 Yards can be done with 20~25# bow)


      Unless a bow Hunter/Competitor * I *
      see little need /use
      for over say 45# (no extra points for macho)

      If you do hunt or compete with 45#+ use it then.


      With all that In mind I would Check your
      local law/ordnance's

      (better on line or in print,local archery /gun shop,
      no need to tell on your self by asking police)
      (though they might tell you no problem as long
      as not one gets hurt or complains)

      (funny Ordnance can mean law or weapons/ guns/munitions )


      Once you determine the law and your level of compliance...

      ( talk to the neighbors also)

      Look at how the houses and public areas /roads,others
      yards etc are situated.
      Very much look for windows & doors,paths sidewalks.

      Think Out side of the box

      You might find a better 20(+) yards shooting towards
      your house or into your garage.
      (possibly from inside to the out side)

      5 yards is (probably ) enough to work on your
      load ,draw & release.

      The SCA rule of thumb is IIRC double your
      longest distance for over shoot
      back stops can take care of some of that.
      (a house or garage will block/stop a lot of bad shooting )

      There is the catch 22 /paradox that the higher
      and wider your back stop is the more it should catch
      it also blocks your visibility and means if you shoot over
      it the farther the arrow will likely go.

      Best bet is not to miss the target
      (accidents do happen)

      Extreme set up would be make a Tunnel of netting
      or other material. giving the arrow no place to
      get out in the whole distance.
      (Think a batting cage for archery. which
      might even satisfy the local law)

      LOl You could even buy a shipping container or three.
      (sweet imagine a 50 yard indoor- out side range for
      One or two shooters at a time)

      you can hang netting etc so you shoot though a "window"
      a Gap/slot
      or below a curtain thus keeping you from Arcing your
      arrows too much.

      Some one had posted some thing about that(curtains)
      in a training /competition setting a month ago?
      It keeps you shooting your flattest Trajectory.

      (old carpet is handy Material )

      Side note I advise(newer) people(or new range)
      to shoot low /lower and work your way up to the target
      rather than shooting over.

      Its safer and you don't have to look as hard
      for your arrows.
      (should you miss)(I do miss the target occasionally)

      I advise (especially when limited over shoot/back stop)
      against what is some times called
      the hunters draw
      when you point the arrow in the air draw while
      bringing the bow down on to target, if you slip its
      a flight /distance shoot.


      Support for Bales & butts
      I did not go in to that when I posted before.

      ~4 Bales unsupported is as high
      as I (generally)like to go. It does
      depend on the bales & the ground

      Yes please cap your support or use more bales
      (or some such)
      for mounted archery.

      a cap is nice to avoid cuts for people too.

      We have found that Re bar works nicely &
      preferable to a T post. T posts seem to get
      torn up and bend & are harder to remove.
      (sandy ground the T post may be better )


      They also cost more & take up more space.

      I personally prefer the Re bar behind the
      bales /butt rather than driven through.
      (easier drive in & to move I think )

      I it only has to be strong enough to keep
      the bales/butt from moving or falling
      over.

      A post pounder is nice to have and IMHO
      slicker and safer than a hammer.

      if you have a wooden frame (like for Saunders mats)
      you can anchor it with a rope and stake or
      through/ around the legs

      (Very sad sound when big wind blows over a
      SM full of arrows. we all cringed )

      Anchor your back stop and or put it far enough
      back it wont fall on your butt (see above note)





      Whistling arrow & more.
      Check out that target butt. I think that will
      last a while even with broad heads.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4PMejhLGeA

      You can make that style
      out of many different materials.



      Since I have deleted most the messages
      I think that covers most the points
      counter points and questions.

      Hope it might be of some use.


      In Service
      Johann
      An Tir
    • lekervere
      ... I agree. I have a 50# bow, but I couldn t use it for tournaments because my arm would be jelly halfway through. I use a 40# and I can shoot all day. An
      Message 2 of 6 , Mar 4, 2013
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        --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "JDS" <ren.touch@...> wrote:
        > Unless a bow Hunter/Competitor * I *
        > see little need /use
        > for over say 45# (no extra points for macho)

        I agree. I have a 50# bow, but I couldn't use it for tournaments because my arm would be jelly halfway through. I use a 40# and I can shoot all day.
        An important point though, it helps to use the lightest arrows that will still shoot straight off your bow. I see a lot of SCA archers using heavy field arrows in light bows, and they fly like bricks. A lighter arrow shoots flatter, and its easier to get the elevation right.
        One rule of thumb is 10 grains per pound of draw weight. That's a 400 grain arrow for a 40# bow. That's not the easiest thing to construct. I'm having very good results with sitka spruce, tapered on both ends to reduce weight. Switching to these lighter arrows, I added 40 points to my field round scores.

        Edward le Kervere
      • Taslen
        Edward, What do you think of the spruce shafts? I have thought about switching to them myself Gaelen O Gradaigh ________________________________ From:
        Message 3 of 6 , Mar 4, 2013
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          Edward,

          What do you think of the spruce shafts? I have thought about switching to them myself

          Gaelen O'Gradaigh


          From: lekervere <edwoodguy@...>
          To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Monday, March 4, 2013 3:18 AM
          Subject: [SCA-Archery] shooting off on a tangent

           

          --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "JDS" wrote:
          > Unless a bow Hunter/Competitor * I *
          > see little need /use
          > for over say 45# (no extra points for macho)

          I agree. I have a 50# bow, but I couldn't use it for tournaments because my arm would be jelly halfway through. I use a 40# and I can shoot all day.
          An important point though, it helps to use the lightest arrows that will still shoot straight off your bow. I see a lot of SCA archers using heavy field arrows in light bows, and they fly like bricks. A lighter arrow shoots flatter, and its easier to get the elevation right.
          One rule of thumb is 10 grains per pound of draw weight. That's a 400 grain arrow for a 40# bow. That's not the easiest thing to construct. I'm having very good results with sitka spruce, tapered on both ends to reduce weight. Switching to these lighter arrows, I added 40 points to my field round scores.

          Edward le Kervere



        • lekervere
          I think the spruce shafts are great. Everyone is surprised at how light they feel in the hand, but they re tougher than they feel. They re at least as strong
          Message 4 of 6 , Mar 5, 2013
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            I think the spruce shafts are great. Everyone is surprised at how light they feel in the hand, but they're tougher than they feel. They're at least as strong as cedar shafts, and probably a little stronger when they hit hard objects. They come straight and they stay straight.
            When I ordered them I asked for 5/16" 40#. They were out of stock on those but Mr. Hildebrand offered to double taper the thicker shafts for free. My 29 1/2" shafts weigh about 300 grains bare. They're creamy white, so I chose to use stain, not paint. I think it kept them lighter. Leather dye works well, followed by a light coat of spray acrylic. The wood grain under a transparent finish makes for a nice lustre. You have to look hard to find the growth rings when gluing up nocks, but the rings are in there.
            The real advantage of spruce shafts is the weight. They're really light, so they shoot fast and the path is flatter. It makes it much easier to hit the farther targets.

            Edward

            --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Taslen <taslen2000@...> wrote:
            >
            > Edward,
            >
            > What do you think of the spruce shafts? I have thought about switching to them myself
            >
            > Gaelen O'Gradaigh
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ________________________________
            > From: lekervere <edwoodguy@...>
            > To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
            > Sent: Monday, March 4, 2013 3:18 AM
            > Subject: [SCA-Archery] shooting off on a tangent
            >
            >
            >  
            >
            > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "JDS" wrote:
            > > Unless a bow Hunter/Competitor * I *
            > > see little need /use
            > > for over say 45# (no extra points for macho)
            >
            > I agree. I have a 50# bow, but I couldn't use it for tournaments because my arm would be jelly halfway through. I use a 40# and I can shoot all day.
            > An important point though, it helps to use the lightest arrows that will still shoot straight off your bow. I see a lot of SCA archers using heavy field arrows in light bows, and they fly like bricks. A lighter arrow shoots flatter, and its easier to get the elevation right.
            > One rule of thumb is 10 grains per pound of draw weight. That's a 400 grain arrow for a 40# bow. That's not the easiest thing to construct. I'm having very good results with sitka spruce, tapered on both ends to reduce weight. Switching to these lighter arrows, I added 40 points to my field round scores.
            >
            > Edward le Kervere
            >
          • Steven Casort
            Check your eye dominance, ie which eye is the one your brain tends to use most.   I have been using the spruce shafts for about a year and find very little
            Message 5 of 6 , Mar 5, 2013
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              Check your eye dominance, ie which eye is the one your brain tends to use most.
               
              I have been using the spruce shafts for about a year and find very little difference from POC.

              In Service
              Ihon MacLucas
              aka Steve Casort
            • Caterina Fortuna
              Ditto. Now, spruce arrows work great off a lighter draw weight bow. And fantastic for distance shooting. But, if your bow is tuned faster and you shoot a lot
              Message 6 of 6 , Mar 6, 2013
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                Ditto. Now, spruce arrows work great off a lighter draw weight bow. And fantastic for distance shooting. But, if your bow is tuned faster and you shoot a lot it IS possible to shoot the spine out. I.e. shooting 1-3 hours 5 times a week for a month and a half dropped the spine weight about 10-15# on all of my spruce arrows.

                All of our previous dozens of shafts have done this.

                Currently, i have approx 7 high altitude cedar shafts for practice and scoring and a fresh dozen of spruce for scoring, specific tourneys, and distance shooting.

                My favorite is purple leather dye on the wood shafts with true oil on top.
                Cat

                On Mar 5, 2013 10:16 AM, "lekervere" <edwoodguy@...> wrote:
                >
                >  
                >
                They're at least as strong as cedar shafts, and probably a little stronger when they hit hard objects. They come straight and they stay straight.
                They're creamy white, so I chose to use stain, not paint. I think it kept them lighter. Leather dye works well, followed by a light coat of spray acrylic. The wood grain under a transparent finish makes for a nice lustre.

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