Re: [SCA-Archery] Appropriate field points for target
- Aelric, I have shot with archers using the ACE points. If the target frame is made of wood, there was some damage. The tips are so much sharper than target tips and bullets that they seem to penetrate deeper into the wood. Then trying to pull them out and not snap the arrow shaft slows things down. you have to gradually work them out, or dig them out with a knife or screwdriver, or go find a pair of pliers. I do allow them, but don't like what they do.A new one a few weeks ago was an archer using a 110lb. warbow, shooting a flat, diamond shaped tip similar to many museum examples. One arrow did hit the target frame (1"x3" pine). Luckily it only splintered the edge off. he wasn't hitting much of anything that day. I did refuse the use of 1 1/2" -2" bodkin tipped arrows.Eduard deWitteAtlantia
From: aelric_southlake <magnetcoil@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2012 9:10 PM
Subject: [SCA-Archery] Appropriate field points for target
Are there any types of field points that we can't use in the SCA? Are there regional variances?
I ask because I was ordering some Ace "classic" points from 3 Rivers, and the guy told me "Now be careful, cuz some areas of the SCA don't like those kind of points, or bodkins, cuz they really tear up a target..."
I can sort of see bodkins as maybe being a bit iffy (really? aren't we trying to be authentic?) But I always thought those Ace points were an old standard target tip from 'back in the day.' Was surprised he said that, so I thought I'd ask here.
I am in West Kingdom by the way, and hope to shoot them at events.
I'll try to load a pic of Ace "classic" points (if I can figure it out), so you'll know what I'm going on about...
- Greetings. I have used the real minibods. Got them from England some years back. I really liked them! I have never had any problem with them coming off. I use JBWeld epoxy for all point installs. Even screw-in adapters. Some fitment is required due to a somewhat smaller socket on some designs. I use emery cloth rolled into cone to fit in socket and a few turns to rough up inside. Followed by a de-greasing using your favorite product. A short squirt of brake cleaning spray or acetone, etc. will do. A good non oily residue product is neeeded. I have very seldom had any point come unstuck using this method. Except for slaming into steel or concrete!! ZERO penetration!! OOPS! It happens to everybody over time! No big deal to install points. Just clean points, fit to shaft as required, put large dab of throughly mixed epoxy on tip of shaft, put point on with twisting motion, seat down with tap to tip of pointed shaft, to really secure joint, make sure point is really on tight. Wipe off any epoxy from joint seam. Stand up w/point down for overnight so epoxy may cure properly. Then just take them out and shoot 'em! Enjoy. Later. YIS, Abner.
- Sir Jon, How do you keep the point 'tight' in this case? The concept is
REALLY intriguing to me.
But it would seem to me, that over time with repeated impact, and
pulling from the target ... that the brad would start to wear it's hole
through the wood slightly.
And that therefore over time, the head would get a hair 'wobbly'. Which
wouldn't be good at all for accuracy.
On 5/2/12 6:22 PM, John Edgerton wrote:
> I just rivet my points on. I use a thin wire brad and drill a matching
> hole through the point and shaft. Then I peen it over and then file it
> smooth. You have to punch the rivet/brad out to remove the point from
> the shaft. Never lost a point this way.
Barun Siegfried Sebastian Faust - Barony of Highland Foorde - Atlantia
http://hf.atlantia.sca.org/ - http://crossbows.biz/ - http://eliw.com/