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Finding a happy medium for crossbow bolts...

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  • David Nolan
    Hi all, I ve recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I ve never owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55#
    Message 1 of 13 , Mar 29, 2012
      Hi all,
       
      I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55# period longbow I made.
       
      Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
       
      I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind resistance into less bending/course changing...
       
      ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
       
      In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22" is the place to be...
       
      What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What size and shape fletch do you use?
       
      I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
       
      Aengus O'Nolan
      Barony of Ayreton
      Middle Kingdom
    • Cleve Johnson
      I have used 16 bolts with my few experiences shooting a crossbow. The nice thing about a short bolt is the spine weight does not necessarily matter with
      Message 2 of 13 , Mar 29, 2012
        I have used 16" bolts with my few experiences shooting a crossbow.  The nice thing about a short bolt is the spine weight does not necessarily matter with higher poundage crossbows.  The longer the shaft, the more important matching spine weight will be.  I am making a crossbow and going to use 28" shafts, but this crossbow is only about 40# (the prod is actually a 57" long hickory flatbow with a 24" draw.
         
        Eadric

        On Thu, Mar 29, 2012 at 11:27 AM, David Nolan <davnolan88@...> wrote:
         

        Hi all,
         
        I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55# period longbow I made.
         
        Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
         
        I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind resistance into less bending/course changing...
         
        ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
         
        In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22" is the place to be...
         
        What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What size and shape fletch do you use?
         
        I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
         
        Aengus O'Nolan
        Barony of Ayreton
        Middle Kingdom




        --
        Lord Eadric of Grenfeld
        Barony of Sternfeld Archery Captain
        AoA
        Order of the Golden Tower, Award of the Nova, Yeoman
         Pandus planto populus mico.
        (Archers make people quiver.)
         
         

      • Michael Scherrer
        I have use 16 up to 21 Found that the cross bow I shoot does best using 11/32 shafts with a 125gr point on a 19 shaft. Biggest problem I had with short
        Message 3 of 13 , Mar 29, 2012
          I have use 16" up to 21"
          Found that the cross bow I shoot does best using
          11/32" shafts with a 125gr point on a 19"shaft.
          Biggest problem I had with short bolts, hay bails.
          Kept losing them in the bails.
          Thomas
           

          To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
          From: eadric.of.grenfeld@...
          Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 12:10:17 -0400
          Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Finding a happy medium for crossbow bolts...

           
          I have used 16" bolts with my few experiences shooting a crossbow.  The nice thing about a short bolt is the spine weight does not necessarily matter with higher poundage crossbows.  The longer the shaft, the more important matching spine weight will be.  I am making a crossbow and going to use 28" shafts, but this crossbow is only about 40# (the prod is actually a 57" long hickory flatbow with a 24" draw.
           
          Eadric

          On Thu, Mar 29, 2012 at 11:27 AM, David Nolan <davnolan88@...> wrote:
           

          Hi all,
           
          I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55# period longbow I made.
           
          Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
           
          I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind resistance into less bending/course changing...
           
          ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
           
          In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22" is the place to be...
           
          What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What size and shape fletch do you use?
           
          I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
           
          Aengus O'Nolan
          Barony of Ayreton
          Middle Kingdom






          --
          Lord Eadric of Grenfeld
          Barony of Sternfeld Archery Captain
          AoA
          Order of the Golden Tower, Award of the Nova, Yeoman
           Pandus planto populus mico.
          (Archers make people quiver.)
           
           


        • John Edgerton
          What I use are 21 inch bolts as they seem more stable, are long enough not to get lost in hay-bales and I can aim point-on at the gold at thirty yards. Jon
          Message 4 of 13 , Mar 29, 2012
            What I use are 21 inch bolts as they seem more stable, are long enough not to get lost in hay-bales and I can aim point-on at the gold at thirty yards.

            Jon



            From: David Nolan <davnolan88@...>
            To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thu, March 29, 2012 8:27:42 AM
            Subject: [SCA-Archery] Finding a happy medium for crossbow bolts...

             

            Hi all,
             
            I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55# period longbow I made.
             
            Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
             
            I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind resistance into less bending/course changing...
             
            ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
             
            In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22" is the place to be...
             
            What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What size and shape fletch do you use?
             
            I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
             
            Aengus O'Nolan
            Barony of Ayreton
            Middle Kingdom
          • James Koch
            Aengus, ... At 110# my guess is your prod is fiberglass or steel. Aluminum prods usually top out at around 80#. With a steel prod go with heavier longer
            Message 5 of 13 , Mar 29, 2012
              Aengus,
              >
              At 110# my guess is your prod is fiberglass or steel. Aluminum prods
              usually top out at around 80#. With a steel prod go with heavier
              longer bolts. Steel limbs are slower, so you need a heavier bolt to
              more completely transfer the energy. I shoot 21" bolts and concur
              with the earlier responders.
              >
              Jim Koch "Gladius The Alchemist"
              >
              >
              >At 11:27 AM 3/29/2012, you wrote:
              >
              >
              >Hi all,
              >
              >I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never
              >owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more
              >recently, the 55# period longbow I made.
              >
              >Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the
              >bolts should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
            • David A. Nolan
              Ok, another SCAdian friend and I have been experimenting with turning our own ash shafts, and at a fat 23/64 diameter, full length 32 shafts are coming out
              Message 6 of 13 , Mar 29, 2012
                Ok, another SCAdian friend and I have been experimenting with turning our own ash shafts, and at a fat 23/64" diameter, full length 32" shafts are coming out spined at about 95 lbs. I was thinking of cutting some of those down. 

                Thanks for the responses!

                Aengus O'Nolan

                Sent from my iPhone

                On Mar 29, 2012, at 12:47 PM, James Koch <alchem@...> wrote:

                 

                Aengus,
                >
                At 110# my guess is your prod is fiberglass or steel. Aluminum prods
                usually top out at around 80#. With a steel prod go with heavier
                longer bolts. Steel limbs are slower, so you need a heavier bolt to
                more completely transfer the energy. I shoot 21" bolts and concur
                with the earlier responders.
                >
                Jim Koch "Gladius The Alchemist"
                >
                >
                >At 11:27 AM 3/29/2012, you wrote:
                >
                >
                >Hi all,
                >
                >I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never
                >owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more
                >recently, the 55# period longbow I made.
                >
                >Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the
                >bolts should be...and what length and shape of fletching.

              • Siegfried
                Every crossbow has it s own preferred food I highly recommend, if you can, to sit and make a whole set of bolts. Say at least 3 of any given type. And just
                Message 7 of 13 , Mar 29, 2012
                  Every crossbow has it's own "preferred food"

                  I highly recommend, if you can, to sit and make a whole set of bolts.
                  Say at least 3 of any given type. And just play, see what flies right
                  out of your bow, and what just works best for you.

                  Now that being said, there are a few rules of thumb that tend to make
                  stuff 'work no matter what', and that you can start with and then start
                  changing:

                  * Longer is better. Typically, up to a point (20-22") the longer bolt
                  works better because not only of better stabalization (the balance point
                  is farther forward proportionally and the fletches are farther
                  backwards). But because it tends to give you a better 'sight window'.
                  Where it appears you don't have to 'aim so low' when using gap sighting
                  (the most typical for crossbowyers)

                  * Heaviest tips you can. That means 125gr for 5/16" shafts, 160gr for
                  11/32 or 23/64 shafts. The more tip heavy it is, the more stable it
                  will be.

                  * Bigger fletches. Going with 4" fletches on a 20"+ bolt, gives you a
                  TON of stability. Most people (myself included) end up going back down
                  the 3" because of lesser drag and more accuracy. But in the beginning,
                  stable is better.

                  * Helical Fletches. You only have two fletches to impart any spin on
                  the bolt. You don't need spin. But spin makes it
                  o-so-much-more-stable. Get a decent helical twist on those fletches.
                  Or at least a good angle offset.

                  Siegfried



                  On 3/29/12 11:27 AM, David Nolan wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > Hi all,
                  >
                  > I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never
                  > owned a crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more
                  > recently, the 55# period longbow I made.
                  >
                  > Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the
                  > bolts should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
                  >
                  > I've been doing some research where I've read a number of
                  > arguments...that longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the
                  > increased mass equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased
                  > length factoring wind resistance into less bending/course changing...
                  >
                  > ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less
                  > prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past
                  > the 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
                  >
                  > In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and
                  > 22" is the place to be...
                  >
                  > What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes?
                  > What size and shape fletch do you use?
                  >
                  > I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
                  >
                  > Aengus O'Nolan
                  > Barony of Ayreton
                  > Middle Kingdom
                  >
                  >
                  >

                  --
                  Barun Siegfried Sebastian Faust - Barony of Highland Foorde - Atlantia
                  http://hf.atlantia.sca.org/ - http://crossbows.biz/ - http://eliw.com/
                • Colonel
                  David, I have been reading all of the responses to your questions and it is all very good advice. I do agree with Siegfried, however, in that you should
                  Message 8 of 13 , Apr 1, 2012
                    David,
                    I have been reading all of the responses to your questions and it is all very good advice. I do agree with Siegfried, however, in that you should experiment to find out what works for your bow and how you shoot. I have tried several weights and lengths as well so I add what has worked for me.

                    I have a period bow with a steel prod that pulls between 140# and 150#. I now use 13" (from tip of point to butt of shaft) bolts and they fly straight and true at all the Royal Round distances with very little change in aiming point. I make them with ordinary 3/8th poplar dowels from the hardware store. They are so close to the set arrow measurements that I can use the 125gr. 23/64 field points with no problem. I use the standard tapering tool that works like a pencil sharpener and Ferr-L-Tite for attaching the points. (I tried 3 other glues and kept loosing the points when retrieving the bolts).
                    I have experimented with, and now use, poplar fins cut from 3/32 blanks which I cut from sheets. I can stack them and cut out about 30 fins at a time on a band saw and sand the shaped fins, still in a stack, on a drum sander. These are then easily slipped into a slot in the shaft, also cut on the band saw, (for that operation you must use a fence or a wood block clamped into place for a straight guide) and glued into place. They are cut to the Shield design and bolts so made fly perfectly straight. Making them may sound difficult, but I have found that gluing on feather fletching and sewing them down is no picnic either.

                    I hope this info can help and give you some ideas to try out.

                    Tom


                    --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, David Nolan <davnolan88@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Hi all,
                    >
                    > I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a
                    > crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55#
                    > period longbow I made.
                    >
                    > Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts
                    > should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
                    >
                    > I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that
                    > longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass
                    > equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind
                    > resistance into less bending/course changing...
                    >
                    > ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less
                    > prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the
                    > 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
                    >
                    > In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22"
                    > is the place to be...
                    >
                    > What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What
                    > size and shape fletch do you use?
                    >
                    > I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
                    >
                    > Aengus O'Nolan
                    > Barony of Ayreton
                    > Middle Kingdom
                    >
                  • Harry Billings
                    I will through in one comment as to length you can always make them shorter but longer is a start over. plachoya Ansteorra David, I have been reading all of
                    Message 9 of 13 , Apr 2, 2012
                      I will through in one comment as to length you can always make them shorter but longer is a start over.

                      plachoya
                      Ansteorra

                       

                       
                      David,
                      I have been reading all of the responses to your questions and it is all very good advice. I do agree with Siegfried, however, in that you should experiment to find out what works for your bow and how you shoot. I have tried several weights and lengths as well so I add what has worked for me.

                      I have a period bow with a steel prod that pulls between 140# and 150#. I now use 13" (from tip of point to butt of shaft) bolts and they fly straight and true at all the Royal Round distances with very little change in aiming point. I make them with ordinary 3/8th poplar dowels from the hardware store. They are so close to the set arrow measurements that I can use the 125gr. 23/64 field points with no problem. I use the standard tapering tool that works like a pencil sharpener and Ferr-L-Tite for attaching the points. (I tried 3 other glues and kept loosing the points when retrieving the bolts).
                      I have experimented with, and now use, poplar fins cut from 3/32 blanks which I cut from sheets. I can stack them and cut out about 30 fins at a time on a band saw and sand the shaped fins, still in a stack, on a drum sander. These are then easily slipped into a slot in the shaft, also cut on the band saw, (for that operation you must use a fence or a wood block clamped into place for a straight guide) and glued into place. They are cut to the Shield design and bolts so made fly perfectly straight. Making them may sound difficult, but I have found that gluing on feather fletching and sewing them down is no picnic either.

                      I hope this info can help and give you some ideas to try out.

                      Tom



                      ExternalClassecxygrp-mkpd8d8d8;font-family:Arial;padding:010pxExternalClassecxygrp-mkpExternalClassecxygrp-mkpExternalClassecxygrp-mkpecxads10pxExternalClassecxygrp-mkpExternalClassecxygrp-mkpExternalClassecxygrp-mkpExternalClassExternalClassExternalClass10pxExternalClassExternalClass10pxExternalClass10px10pxExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassff7900ExternalClassecxunderlineExternalClass10pxExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClass10pxExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassecxdiv#ygrp-mlmsgecxygrp-msg10pxExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClass10pxExternalClasssize:77ExternalClasssize:77ExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClasstextareafont:99ExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClass10pxExternalClassExternalClassecxygrp-msgExternalClassecxygrp-msgExternalClassff7900ExternalClassExternalClassExternalClasssize:77ExternalClassExternalClassExternalClassExternalClass
                    • James
                      Colonel, Would you have a photo of your bolt design? Thanks, JimR
                      Message 10 of 13 , May 27 9:11 AM
                        Colonel,
                        Would you have a photo of your bolt design?
                        Thanks,
                        JimR

                        --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Colonel" <lehrerprofessoren@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > David,
                        > I have been reading all of the responses to your questions and it is all very good advice. I do agree with Siegfried, however, in that you should experiment to find out what works for your bow and how you shoot. I have tried several weights and lengths as well so I add what has worked for me.
                        >
                        > I have a period bow with a steel prod that pulls between 140# and 150#. I now use 13" (from tip of point to butt of shaft) bolts and they fly straight and true at all the Royal Round distances with very little change in aiming point. I make them with ordinary 3/8th poplar dowels from the hardware store. They are so close to the set arrow measurements that I can use the 125gr. 23/64 field points with no problem. I use the standard tapering tool that works like a pencil sharpener and Ferr-L-Tite for attaching the points. (I tried 3 other glues and kept loosing the points when retrieving the bolts).
                        > I have experimented with, and now use, poplar fins cut from 3/32 blanks which I cut from sheets. I can stack them and cut out about 30 fins at a time on a band saw and sand the shaped fins, still in a stack, on a drum sander. These are then easily slipped into a slot in the shaft, also cut on the band saw, (for that operation you must use a fence or a wood block clamped into place for a straight guide) and glued into place. They are cut to the Shield design and bolts so made fly perfectly straight. Making them may sound difficult, but I have found that gluing on feather fletching and sewing them down is no picnic either.
                        >
                        > I hope this info can help and give you some ideas to try out.
                        >
                        > Tom
                        >
                        >
                        > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, David Nolan <davnolan88@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > Hi all,
                        > >
                        > > I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a
                        > > crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55#
                        > > period longbow I made.
                        > >
                        > > Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts
                        > > should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
                        > >
                        > > I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that
                        > > longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass
                        > > equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind
                        > > resistance into less bending/course changing...
                        > >
                        > > ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less
                        > > prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the
                        > > 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
                        > >
                        > > In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22"
                        > > is the place to be...
                        > >
                        > > What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What
                        > > size and shape fletch do you use?
                        > >
                        > > I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
                        > >
                        > > Aengus O'Nolan
                        > > Barony of Ayreton
                        > > Middle Kingdom
                        > >
                        >
                      • Colonel
                        Jim, I do have a couple of pictures of the bolts. If you will send me an e-mail to ph022768@aol.com I can attach them to a reply. Thomas
                        Message 11 of 13 , May 28 1:08 PM
                          Jim,
                          I do have a couple of pictures of the bolts. If you will send me an e-mail to ph022768@... I can attach them to a reply.

                          Thomas

                          --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jimrudholm@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > Colonel,
                          > Would you have a photo of your bolt design?
                          > Thanks,
                          > JimR
                          >
                          > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Colonel" <lehrerprofessoren@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > > David,
                          > > I have been reading all of the responses to your questions and it is all very good advice. I do agree with Siegfried, however, in that you should experiment to find out what works for your bow and how you shoot. I have tried several weights and lengths as well so I add what has worked for me.
                          > >
                          > > I have a period bow with a steel prod that pulls between 140# and 150#. I now use 13" (from tip of point to butt of shaft) bolts and they fly straight and true at all the Royal Round distances with very little change in aiming point. I make them with ordinary 3/8th poplar dowels from the hardware store. They are so close to the set arrow measurements that I can use the 125gr. 23/64 field points with no problem. I use the standard tapering tool that works like a pencil sharpener and Ferr-L-Tite for attaching the points. (I tried 3 other glues and kept loosing the points when retrieving the bolts).
                          > > I have experimented with, and now use, poplar fins cut from 3/32 blanks which I cut from sheets. I can stack them and cut out about 30 fins at a time on a band saw and sand the shaped fins, still in a stack, on a drum sander. These are then easily slipped into a slot in the shaft, also cut on the band saw, (for that operation you must use a fence or a wood block clamped into place for a straight guide) and glued into place. They are cut to the Shield design and bolts so made fly perfectly straight. Making them may sound difficult, but I have found that gluing on feather fletching and sewing them down is no picnic either.
                          > >
                          > > I hope this info can help and give you some ideas to try out.
                          > >
                          > > Tom
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, David Nolan <davnolan88@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > Hi all,
                          > > >
                          > > > I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a
                          > > > crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55#
                          > > > period longbow I made.
                          > > >
                          > > > Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts
                          > > > should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
                          > > >
                          > > > I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that
                          > > > longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass
                          > > > equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind
                          > > > resistance into less bending/course changing...
                          > > >
                          > > > ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less
                          > > > prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the
                          > > > 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
                          > > >
                          > > > In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22"
                          > > > is the place to be...
                          > > >
                          > > > What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What
                          > > > size and shape fletch do you use?
                          > > >
                          > > > I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
                          > > >
                          > > > Aengus O'Nolan
                          > > > Barony of Ayreton
                          > > > Middle Kingdom
                          > > >
                          > >
                          >
                        • Colonel
                          I am afraid that might be sent to Yahoo the way it came up. After the @ aol.com
                          Message 12 of 13 , May 28 1:12 PM
                            I am afraid that might be sent to Yahoo the way it came up. After the @ aol.com

                            --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jimrudholm@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Colonel,
                            > Would you have a photo of your bolt design?
                            > Thanks,
                            > JimR
                            >
                            > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Colonel" <lehrerprofessoren@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > David,
                            > > I have been reading all of the responses to your questions and it is all very good advice. I do agree with Siegfried, however, in that you should experiment to find out what works for your bow and how you shoot. I have tried several weights and lengths as well so I add what has worked for me.
                            > >
                            > > I have a period bow with a steel prod that pulls between 140# and 150#. I now use 13" (from tip of point to butt of shaft) bolts and they fly straight and true at all the Royal Round distances with very little change in aiming point. I make them with ordinary 3/8th poplar dowels from the hardware store. They are so close to the set arrow measurements that I can use the 125gr. 23/64 field points with no problem. I use the standard tapering tool that works like a pencil sharpener and Ferr-L-Tite for attaching the points. (I tried 3 other glues and kept loosing the points when retrieving the bolts).
                            > > I have experimented with, and now use, poplar fins cut from 3/32 blanks which I cut from sheets. I can stack them and cut out about 30 fins at a time on a band saw and sand the shaped fins, still in a stack, on a drum sander. These are then easily slipped into a slot in the shaft, also cut on the band saw, (for that operation you must use a fence or a wood block clamped into place for a straight guide) and glued into place. They are cut to the Shield design and bolts so made fly perfectly straight. Making them may sound difficult, but I have found that gluing on feather fletching and sewing them down is no picnic either.
                            > >
                            > > I hope this info can help and give you some ideas to try out.
                            > >
                            > > Tom
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, David Nolan <davnolan88@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > Hi all,
                            > > >
                            > > > I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a
                            > > > crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55#
                            > > > period longbow I made.
                            > > >
                            > > > Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts
                            > > > should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
                            > > >
                            > > > I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that
                            > > > longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass
                            > > > equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind
                            > > > resistance into less bending/course changing...
                            > > >
                            > > > ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less
                            > > > prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the
                            > > > 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
                            > > >
                            > > > In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22"
                            > > > is the place to be...
                            > > >
                            > > > What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What
                            > > > size and shape fletch do you use?
                            > > >
                            > > > I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
                            > > >
                            > > > Aengus O'Nolan
                            > > > Barony of Ayreton
                            > > > Middle Kingdom
                            > > >
                            > >
                            >
                          • Colonel
                            OK one last try to have the address look right Papa Hotel, then six digits, at, Able Oscar Lima decimal Charlie Oscar Marine
                            Message 13 of 13 , May 28 1:18 PM
                              OK one last try to have the address look right
                              Papa Hotel, then six digits, at, Able Oscar Lima decimal Charlie Oscar
                              Marine

                              --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jimrudholm@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > Colonel,
                              > Would you have a photo of your bolt design?
                              > Thanks,
                              > JimR
                              >
                              > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Colonel" <lehrerprofessoren@> wrote:
                              > >
                              > > David,
                              > > I have been reading all of the responses to your questions and it is all very good advice. I do agree with Siegfried, however, in that you should experiment to find out what works for your bow and how you shoot. I have tried several weights and lengths as well so I add what has worked for me.
                              > >
                              > > I have a period bow with a steel prod that pulls between 140# and 150#. I now use 13" (from tip of point to butt of shaft) bolts and they fly straight and true at all the Royal Round distances with very little change in aiming point. I make them with ordinary 3/8th poplar dowels from the hardware store. They are so close to the set arrow measurements that I can use the 125gr. 23/64 field points with no problem. I use the standard tapering tool that works like a pencil sharpener and Ferr-L-Tite for attaching the points. (I tried 3 other glues and kept loosing the points when retrieving the bolts).
                              > > I have experimented with, and now use, poplar fins cut from 3/32 blanks which I cut from sheets. I can stack them and cut out about 30 fins at a time on a band saw and sand the shaped fins, still in a stack, on a drum sander. These are then easily slipped into a slot in the shaft, also cut on the band saw, (for that operation you must use a fence or a wood block clamped into place for a straight guide) and glued into place. They are cut to the Shield design and bolts so made fly perfectly straight. Making them may sound difficult, but I have found that gluing on feather fletching and sewing them down is no picnic either.
                              > >
                              > > I hope this info can help and give you some ideas to try out.
                              > >
                              > > Tom
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, David Nolan <davnolan88@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > Hi all,
                              > > >
                              > > > I've recently acquired a period crossbow of around 110#. I've never owned a
                              > > > crossbow...I normally shoot a 45# modern recurve or, more recently, the 55#
                              > > > period longbow I made.
                              > > >
                              > > > Now that I have a cross, I'm wondering about what kind of length the bolts
                              > > > should be...and what length and shape of fletching.
                              > > >
                              > > > I've been doing some research where I've read a number of arguments...that
                              > > > longer bolts will stabilize better in flight due to the increased mass
                              > > > equaling increased kinetic energy and the increased length factoring wind
                              > > > resistance into less bending/course changing...
                              > > >
                              > > > ...at the same time I've heard arguments that shorter bolts, being less
                              > > > prone to a bent shaft, fly more accurately as long as you don't go past the
                              > > > 'maximum effective range' where they start to tumble.
                              > > >
                              > > > In any event most places I've read say that somewhere between 16" and 22"
                              > > > is the place to be...
                              > > >
                              > > > What have YOU guys experienced? Pros and cons of different bolt sizes? What
                              > > > size and shape fletch do you use?
                              > > >
                              > > > I appreciate the ability to pick your brains, thank you!
                              > > >
                              > > > Aengus O'Nolan
                              > > > Barony of Ayreton
                              > > > Middle Kingdom
                              > > >
                              > >
                              >
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