Re: Removing Nocks
- A technique I've used, due to the type of glue that was used, is to place the nock on a hard flat surface and strike it smartly but controlled with a hammer. Sorta like a hard tap. After a few strikes the glue layer is shattered and the nock slips off. However, if you strike too hard you will damage the end of the shaft. So while this works, it does take a bit of skill to determine just how hard to strike the nock.
I use the heat method for reclaiming tips from broken shafts. I have found that the heat method works for all glues I have used thus far. I no longer use the heat melt glue that is recommended for tips. After a month or two of shooting I find the glue layer shatters if the shaft is shot into a stiff target such as a new Saunders mat. I now use Smooth On epoxy which is an epoxy that dries flexible. Hardware Store epoxies dry hard and will shatter over time. At least that has been my experience.
--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Fritz <carl.west@...> wrote:
> When George Bottorf put fingers to keys it was 1/16/12 7:03 PM...
> > Greetings, Randal. I have used heat to remove nocks before. A soldering
> > gun may work to soften the plastic. Use a pair of regular pliers to grip
> > the nock, and twist. Best to be careful,as it will be hot. Or maybe a
> > heatgun. All you need to do is use enough heat to soften the plastic. If
> > you crush the nock, not enough heat. It still may be removed in pieces,
> > tho. Carefuly! An Exacto knife is a very handy tool to clean up the
> > surface glue. Easy does it! A bit of sandpaper to clean surface. It's
> > not too hard to do, just be careful. YIS.Abner.
> Like that.
> I use a candle-flame.
> Warm the main body of the nock, then quickly warm the edge until it just
> barely starts to curl, grab with pliers, twist and pull.
> Aut inveniam viam aut faciam.