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Re: [SCA-Archery] Crossbow string ends - ARG!

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  • James W. Pratt Jr.
    Greetings Siegfried As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from the prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?
    Message 1 of 7 , Jul 2, 2000
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      Greetings Siegfried

      As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from the
      prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?

      James Cunningham

      > It is not unusual to have microscopic flaws in the steel which cannot be
      seen
      > nor felt, but which will cut into the servings on a new prod. I suggest
      you
      > could use the dremel tool and rouge which has been mentioned, but I have
      > found that just a real good buffing of the spots where the string rides
      using
      > a VERY fine emory paper has always worked for my bows.
      > The second problem you mention (pushing apart the wraps of the servings)
      > comes from not having enough tension on the serving jig as you make the
      > servings. You need to have some more "pull" on that thread when you serve
      it.
      > Hope this helps
      > Ailean
      >
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    • Karl Sandhoff
      Likewise, my aluminum Iolo prod cut thru the first string (wihch came with the crossbow). I put leather washers on the ends of the prod and have had no
      Message 2 of 7 , Jul 2, 2000
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        Likewise, my aluminum Iolo prod cut thru the first string (wihch came
        with the crossbow). I put leather washers on the ends of the prod and
        have had no unusual ware or breakage problems since. I suspect it is not
        a matter of a burr or roughness but rather the concentration of force on
        the string at the end of the prod. Look at the design of the prods in
        Payne-Galwey to see how the force was spread out on the ears of his prod.
        In service to the dream,
        Carolus von Eulenhorst

        On Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:08:39 -0500 banzhof@... writes:
        >Even if the end look & feel smoth, it might help to polish with rouge
        >and a
        >Dremel tool. I put pieces of thin leather on the ends of my Gladius
        >prod
        >(also a 120#) so that the string does not toutch the metal and have no
        >problems with excessive wear.
        >
        >Alan of Caerlaverock
        >
        >
        >
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      • Siegfried Sebastian Faust
        ... I keep the brace height at 3 minimum, probably around 3.25 normally ... Length from prod to nut is 11 ... so draw length is from 7.75 to 8 Siegfried
        Message 3 of 7 , Jul 3, 2000
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          >As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from the
          >prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?

          I keep the brace height at 3" minimum, probably around 3.25" normally ...

          Length from prod to nut is 11" ... so draw length is from 7.75" to 8"

          Siegfried


          ______________________________________________________________________
          Lord Siegfried Sebastian Faust Barony of Highland Foorde
          Baronial Web Minister http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org
        • James W. Pratt Jr.
          Just checking. Allan has tried to put a Gladius prod on an old Wamo(14inch draw lenght). It works great until you start breaking prods. Now Gladius has
          Message 4 of 7 , Jul 3, 2000
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            Just checking. Allan has tried to put a Gladius prod on an old Wamo(14inch
            draw lenght). It works great until you start breaking prods. Now Gladius
            has longer prods that will handel the longer draw length.

            James Cunningham


            > >As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from
            the
            > >prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?
            >
            > I keep the brace height at 3" minimum, probably around 3.25" normally ...
            >
            > Length from prod to nut is 11" ... so draw length is from 7.75" to 8"
            >
            > Siegfried
            >
            >
            > ______________________________________________________________________
            > Lord Siegfried Sebastian Faust Barony of Highland Foorde
            > Baronial Web Minister http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org
            >
            >
            > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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            > http://click.egroups.com/1/4633/2/_/581373/_/962630905/
            > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
            >
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            >
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            >
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          • Alberic
            Siegfreid: As others have already noted, it s probably not a burr, but rather simply the concentration of force right at the knocking point. On my big bows,
            Message 5 of 7 , Jul 5, 2000
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              Siegfreid:

              As others have already noted, it's probably not a burr, but rather
              simply the concentration of force right at the knocking point. On my
              big bows, #250+, I use stainless washers that slip on over the nocking
              points, and are bent double so that they spread out the force. Seems to
              work pretty well. I've never had strings fail from loop chafe. Iolo's
              older aluminium prods had the seats of the knocking areas filed out so
              that they weren't such a harsh angle when the bow was drawn. The
              leather washers someone else suggested also seem like a sensible
              suggestion. (Cheap + can't hurt = good idea.)

              Cheers-
              Alberic
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