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Re: [SCA-Archery] Crossbow string ends - ARG!

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  • agpitts@aol.com
    It is not unusual to have microscopic flaws in the steel which cannot be seen nor felt, but which will cut into the servings on a new prod. I suggest you
    Message 1 of 7 , Jul 2, 2000
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      It is not unusual to have microscopic flaws in the steel which cannot be seen
      nor felt, but which will cut into the servings on a new prod. I suggest you
      could use the dremel tool and rouge which has been mentioned, but I have
      found that just a real good buffing of the spots where the string rides using
      a VERY fine emory paper has always worked for my bows.
      The second problem you mention (pushing apart the wraps of the servings)
      comes from not having enough tension on the serving jig as you make the
      servings. You need to have some more "pull" on that thread when you serve it.
      Hope this helps
      Ailean
    • banzhof@dnaco.net
      Even if the end look & feel smoth, it might help to polish with rouge and a Dremel tool. I put pieces of thin leather on the ends of my Gladius prod (also a
      Message 2 of 7 , Jul 2, 2000
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        Even if the end look & feel smoth, it might help to polish with rouge and a
        Dremel tool. I put pieces of thin leather on the ends of my Gladius prod
        (also a 120#) so that the string does not toutch the metal and have no
        problems with excessive wear.

        Alan of Caerlaverock
      • James W. Pratt Jr.
        Greetings Siegfried As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from the prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?
        Message 3 of 7 , Jul 2, 2000
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          Greetings Siegfried

          As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from the
          prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?

          James Cunningham

          > It is not unusual to have microscopic flaws in the steel which cannot be
          seen
          > nor felt, but which will cut into the servings on a new prod. I suggest
          you
          > could use the dremel tool and rouge which has been mentioned, but I have
          > found that just a real good buffing of the spots where the string rides
          using
          > a VERY fine emory paper has always worked for my bows.
          > The second problem you mention (pushing apart the wraps of the servings)
          > comes from not having enough tension on the serving jig as you make the
          > servings. You need to have some more "pull" on that thread when you serve
          it.
          > Hope this helps
          > Ailean
          >
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        • Karl Sandhoff
          Likewise, my aluminum Iolo prod cut thru the first string (wihch came with the crossbow). I put leather washers on the ends of the prod and have had no
          Message 4 of 7 , Jul 2, 2000
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            Likewise, my aluminum Iolo prod cut thru the first string (wihch came
            with the crossbow). I put leather washers on the ends of the prod and
            have had no unusual ware or breakage problems since. I suspect it is not
            a matter of a burr or roughness but rather the concentration of force on
            the string at the end of the prod. Look at the design of the prods in
            Payne-Galwey to see how the force was spread out on the ears of his prod.
            In service to the dream,
            Carolus von Eulenhorst

            On Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:08:39 -0500 banzhof@... writes:
            >Even if the end look & feel smoth, it might help to polish with rouge
            >and a
            >Dremel tool. I put pieces of thin leather on the ends of my Gladius
            >prod
            >(also a 120#) so that the string does not toutch the metal and have no
            >problems with excessive wear.
            >
            >Alan of Caerlaverock
            >
            >
            >
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          • Siegfried Sebastian Faust
            ... I keep the brace height at 3 minimum, probably around 3.25 normally ... Length from prod to nut is 11 ... so draw length is from 7.75 to 8 Siegfried
            Message 5 of 7 , Jul 3, 2000
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              >As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from the
              >prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?

              I keep the brace height at 3" minimum, probably around 3.25" normally ...

              Length from prod to nut is 11" ... so draw length is from 7.75" to 8"

              Siegfried


              ______________________________________________________________________
              Lord Siegfried Sebastian Faust Barony of Highland Foorde
              Baronial Web Minister http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org
            • James W. Pratt Jr.
              Just checking. Allan has tried to put a Gladius prod on an old Wamo(14inch draw lenght). It works great until you start breaking prods. Now Gladius has
              Message 6 of 7 , Jul 3, 2000
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                Just checking. Allan has tried to put a Gladius prod on an old Wamo(14inch
                draw lenght). It works great until you start breaking prods. Now Gladius
                has longer prods that will handel the longer draw length.

                James Cunningham


                > >As a side question what is the brace height(sp) and the the lenght from
                the
                > >prod to the nut or notch(that holds the string at full cock)?
                >
                > I keep the brace height at 3" minimum, probably around 3.25" normally ...
                >
                > Length from prod to nut is 11" ... so draw length is from 7.75" to 8"
                >
                > Siegfried
                >
                >
                > ______________________________________________________________________
                > Lord Siegfried Sebastian Faust Barony of Highland Foorde
                > Baronial Web Minister http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org
                >
                >
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                > http://click.egroups.com/1/4633/2/_/581373/_/962630905/
                > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
                >
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                >
                > This list sponsored by House Wyvern Hall, BBM, East Kingdom, SCA
                > [Email to SCA-Archery-unsubscribe@... to leave this list]
                >
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              • Alberic
                Siegfreid: As others have already noted, it s probably not a burr, but rather simply the concentration of force right at the knocking point. On my big bows,
                Message 7 of 7 , Jul 5, 2000
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                  Siegfreid:

                  As others have already noted, it's probably not a burr, but rather
                  simply the concentration of force right at the knocking point. On my
                  big bows, #250+, I use stainless washers that slip on over the nocking
                  points, and are bent double so that they spread out the force. Seems to
                  work pretty well. I've never had strings fail from loop chafe. Iolo's
                  older aluminium prods had the seats of the knocking areas filed out so
                  that they weren't such a harsh angle when the bow was drawn. The
                  leather washers someone else suggested also seem like a sensible
                  suggestion. (Cheap + can't hurt = good idea.)

                  Cheers-
                  Alberic
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