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Re: Greetings and string-length advice needed

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  • Lord Alester MacClansy
    I heartily concur that getting your form correct is very important. It s taken me 3 years for it to come naturally. Also remember if you lower your bow weight
    Message 1 of 10 , Jul 10, 2010
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      I heartily concur that getting your form correct is very important. It's taken me 3 years for it to come naturally. Also remember if you lower your bow weight you may find you have to "arch" your arrows in to the target. Most of my friends shoot #45 or greater bows. While they have a flatter trajectory than my #35, I often have to remind myself to shoot in an arc. I think seeing them shoot rather flat I subconsiously shoot flat. When my arrow surfs under the target is when I go "DOH!". Best of luck to you in your shooting endeavors!

      Klancey

      --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Jason Yeates <yeatesman@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi Laura!
      >
      > I'm pretty sure everyone would agree with Carl. When you are first starting
      > out, it's very important to develop your form - this is impossible if you
      > have trouble drawing.
      >
      > I find that once you get tired from shooting that your accuracy will
      > plummet, which is super frustrating when you are beginning. :) I'd strongly
      > recommend learning to shoot with a lighter draw until you can fully draw
      > your 45# without the shake.
      >
      > I also think you will also find that the range marshalls will be concerned
      > about your ability to handle the bow safely if you shake while demonstrating
      > your draw during bow inspection.
      >
      > All that being said, you must be pretty strong already to be able to pull
      > the 45# at all - with some work I'd expect you to be able to handle the bow
      > pretty quickly.
      >
      > Welcome to the archery addiction! :)
      >
      >
      > On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 4:16 PM, <nelson3146@...> wrote:
      >
      > >
      > >
      > > as a coach I would have advised you to start with a lighter bow and to work
      > > your way up to a weight you like. (also for SCA shooting you do not really
      > > need anything heavier then 35# or 40#).
      > > --
      > > Carl Nelson
      > > Æoelwigg Ælfwiggsson
      > > Captain of Archers Barony of the Angels
      > > NELSON3146@... <NELSON3146%40roadrunner.com>
      > > PH#626-297-6513
      > >
      > >
      > > ---- earthsong99 <twopeaedpod@... <twopeaedpod%40gmail.com>> wrote:
      > > > Hello all!
      > > >
      > > > New to this group and a beginner in target archery. I just got my first
      > > bow (a 45# 60" Bear recurve). I'm very excited to get started, but need to
      > > get off on the right foot. I can't pull back a 45# bow easily (can but it's
      > > shaky and I wouldn't last long) and so it was suggested to me to put a
      > > longer string on it. It was also suggested that I could "un-twist" the
      > > string a bit to get some more give on it and tighten it back as I get
      > > stronger.
      > > >
      > > > So, my question is...if I get a longer string AND plan on
      > > untwisting/retwisting, then what length string should I get? 62", 64"?
      > > > If any more info is needed to help with this matter, please let me know -
      > > happy to give details!
      > > >
      > > > Also, I'm in AEthelmearc, Dominion of Myrkfaelinn - are there any more
      > > local email groups or listservs I could join in on?
      > > >
      > > > Thanks!
      > > > - Laura :)
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      >
    • Carolus
      I find my 37# bow will shoot nearly flat at 20 or 30yds. I only have to aim a bit high at 40. I do have to aim towards the top ring at 60yds. Much of this is
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 10, 2010
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        I find my 37# bow will shoot nearly flat at 20 or 30yds. I only have to
        aim a bit high at 40. I do have to aim towards the top ring at 60yds.
        Much of this is due to release and follow through. using a misture of
        talcum powder and corn starch on your glove or tab will make the release
        smoother as will learning to let your fingers relax quickly to clear the
        string. Do not stop pulling when you reach your anchor but pull through
        the point. Stopping your draw at anchor will actually cause the bow to
        relax slightly losing poundage at release. With an anchor point at the
        chin or corner of the mouth, releasing there and pullling through, your
        hand should end up below your ear near your neck. Make sure your bow
        arm continues to point at the target and do not allow it to drop until
        you hear the arrow hit. This follow through is the most important part
        of getting a flat shot. It is one of the most important parts of
        shooting and is seldom taught. There are many other fine details to
        getting the best shot but this is enough to think about for now.
        Carolus

        Lord Alester MacClansy wrote:
        > I heartily concur that getting your form correct is very important. It's taken me 3 years for it to come naturally. Also remember if you lower your bow weight you may find you have to "arch" your arrows in to the target. Most of my friends shoot #45 or greater bows. While they have a flatter trajectory than my #35, I often have to remind myself to shoot in an arc. I think seeing them shoot rather flat I subconsiously shoot flat. When my arrow surfs under the target is when I go "DOH!". Best of luck to you in your shooting endeavors!
        >
        > Klancey
        >
        >
      • Laura Woinoski
        Thanks for the advice, everyone! I went to the archery shop and the guy there was really great - he let me borrow a 25# recurve and some arrows and I left my
        Message 3 of 10 , Jul 11, 2010
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          Thanks for the advice, everyone!
          I went to the archery shop and the guy there was really great - he let me borrow a 25# recurve and some arrows and I left my bow there as "collateral." He's ordering the "normal string" for it and will call me when it's in.
          I went to PAX yesterday and practiced for many hours at the range, it was great! The bow was really easy to use and I think by the time I have to return this one, then I'll be able to shoot a 35#. So, I'll contact the Deftwood archery Marshal like it was suggested to see if I can borrow a 35# bow for a while so I can work up :)
          And I know I don't NEED a 45# bow, but I got this $150+ bow for $30 on Craigslist, I can't expect to find a deal like that again in a long time probably! lol
          - Laura :)


          "You must be the change you wish to see in the world." ~Mahatma Gandhi
        • Lord Alester MacClansy
          I forgot to mention I shoot an English red oak longbow. That may account for the arching versus flat trajectory.It is call arch ery after all... Klancey
          Message 4 of 10 , Jul 11, 2010
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            I forgot to mention I shoot an English red oak longbow. That may account for the arching versus flat trajectory.It is call "arch"ery after all...

            Klancey

            --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Laura Woinoski <twopeaedpod@...> wrote:
            >
            > Thanks for the advice, everyone!
            > I went to the archery shop and the guy there was really great - he let me
            > borrow a 25# recurve and some arrows and I left my bow there as
            > "collateral." He's ordering the "normal string" for it and will call me when
            > it's in.
            > I went to PAX yesterday and practiced for many hours at the range, it was
            > great! The bow was really easy to use and I think by the time I have to
            > return this one, then I'll be able to shoot a 35#. So, I'll contact the
            > Deftwood archery Marshal like it was suggested to see if I can borrow a 35#
            > bow for a while so I can work up :)
            > And I know I don't NEED a 45# bow, but I got this $150+ bow for $30 on
            > Craigslist, I can't expect to find a deal like that again in a long time
            > probably! lol
            > - Laura :)
            >
            >
            > "You must be the change you wish to see in the world." ~Mahatma Gandhi
            >
          • Jason Yeates
            A great deal is a great deal. I d probably buy a 110# bow if I found one for $30. ;) Now I m jealous... haha!
            Message 5 of 10 , Jul 11, 2010
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              A great deal is a great deal.  I'd probably buy a 110# bow if I found one for $30. ;)

              Now I'm jealous... haha!

              On Sun, Jul 11, 2010 at 9:19 AM, Laura Woinoski <twopeaedpod@...> wrote:
               

              Thanks for the advice, everyone!
              I went to the archery shop and the guy there was really great - he let me borrow a 25# recurve and some arrows and I left my bow there as "collateral." He's ordering the "normal string" for it and will call me when it's in.
              I went to PAX yesterday and practiced for many hours at the range, it was great! The bow was really easy to use and I think by the time I have to return this one, then I'll be able to shoot a 35#. So, I'll contact the Deftwood archery Marshal like it was suggested to see if I can borrow a 35# bow for a while so I can work up :)
              And I know I don't NEED a 45# bow, but I got this $150+ bow for $30 on Craigslist, I can't expect to find a deal like that again in a long time probably! lol
              - Laura :)


              "You must be the change you wish to see in the world." ~Mahatma Gandhi


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