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Re: Looking for steel roller-nut

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  • i_griffen
    It is possible if you was to take your wooden/delrin nut to a machinest he/she could make you one out of Steel or T6 Iain
    Message 1 of 15 , Nov 17, 2009
      It is possible if you was to take your wooden/delrin nut to a machinest he/she could make you one out of Steel or T6


      Iain


      --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Drew" <adhazen1974@...> wrote:
      >
      > Does anyone know where I can get steel roller-nuts?
      >
      > Andreas
      >
    • Carolus
      I took two 1/4 plates and cut notches into them which I rounded to be string friendly. I then turned a piece of 1-1/4 aluminum rod into an hourglass shape
      Message 2 of 15 , Nov 17, 2009
        I took two 1/4" plates and cut notches into them which I rounded to be
        string friendly. I then turned a piece of 1-1/4" aluminum rod into an
        hourglass shape with a 5/8" center to serve as a shaft and spacer to
        hold the plates 1-1/4" apart. The ends of the spindle holes formed
        recesses into which I mounted ball bearings. Opposite the notches I
        mounted a rod with a brass tube sleeve to engage the tickler. Machined
        brass bolts form the pivots for the bearings. It spins very freely and
        has a soft but firm release. I ended up using a small piece of plastic
        pipe and some epoxy putty to form a cradle for the end of a Fellwalker
        bolt but this wouldn't be needed for tube ammo. I'll see if I can put
        some pictures of the bow and it's parts on the list photos section.
        Carolus

        John Edgerton wrote:
        > Carolus
        >
        > I would like to learn more about your "fabricated aluminum skeleton
        > roller nut".
        >
        > Jon
        >
        >
        > On Nov 17, 2009, at 1:55 PM, Carolus wrote:
        >
        >
        >> I have used Mycrta as a replacement for ivory. I have used solid metal
        >> nuts and found them too heavy for good performance. For my combat
        >> crossbow I used a fabricated aluminum skeleton roller nut.
        >> Carolus
        >>
        >>
        >
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
        >
        >
        > No virus found in this incoming message.
        > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
        > Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.68/2507 - Release Date: 11/16/09 19:53:00
        >
        >
        ----------


        No virus found in this outgoing message.
        Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
        Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.68/2507 - Release Date: 11/16/09 19:53:00


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Drew
        The roller nut is part of the trigger on a crossbow. Andreas
        Message 3 of 15 , Nov 17, 2009
          The roller nut is part of the trigger on a crossbow.

          Andreas

          --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Steven Chang <moondragn@...> wrote:
          >
          > Are you talking about this thing for the ILF limbs?
          >
          > http://www.tradtecharchery.com/Details.aspx?itemNo=3880095
          >
          > or Are you talking about a roller nut for a crossbow?
          >
          > On 11/17/09, Drew <adhazen1974@...> wrote:
          > > Does anyone know where I can get steel roller-nuts?
          > >
          > > Andreas
          > >
          > >
          >
        • Drew
          The crossbow that i am building will have a 150# draw weight prod on it. I ll be mainly using the crossbow for hunting. As for the horn, I d love to try it,
          Message 4 of 15 , Nov 17, 2009
            The crossbow that i am building will have a 150# draw weight prod on it. I'll be mainly using the crossbow for hunting.

            As for the horn, I'd love to try it, but I'm not sure where to find a 1-1/2" dia. soild horn.

            Andreas

            --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "James W" <jameswolfden@...> wrote:
            >
            > If for a crossbow, horn would be more period appropriate. The Delrin that is available on Alcheminc.com is intended to substitute for horn. You will still have to shape it yourself.
            >
            > If the prod is light enough, it can be done from hardwood. I have even heard of it being done as lamination.
            >
            > James
            >
            > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Drew" <adhazen1974@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Does anyone know where I can get steel roller-nuts?
            > >
            > > Andreas
            > >
            >
          • James W
            I would stay away from steel roller nut and go with the plastic rod which you can either source locally or from alcheminc.com If you want to go the horn
            Message 5 of 15 , Nov 17, 2009
              I would stay away from steel roller nut and go with the plastic rod which you can either source locally or from alcheminc.com

              If you want to go the horn routine, you can get a rectangular block of horn from 3riversarchery that would need to be turned. You would want to do that anyways as even a round horn might not be evenly round.

              http://www.3riversarchery.com/Primitives+Arrow+Building++Horn+Blocks_c13_s261_p0_i6339_product.html



              --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Drew" <adhazen1974@...> wrote:
              >
              > The crossbow that i am building will have a 150# draw weight prod on it. I'll be mainly using the crossbow for hunting.
              >
              > As for the horn, I'd love to try it, but I'm not sure where to find a 1-1/2" dia. soild horn.
              >
              > Andreas
              >
            • John edgerton
              Thanks, I would love to see some pictures. Jon ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              Message 6 of 15 , Nov 17, 2009
                Thanks, I would love to see some pictures.

                Jon

                On Nov 17, 2009, at 4:10 PM, Carolus wrote:

                > I took two 1/4" plates and cut notches into them which I rounded to be
                > string friendly. I then turned a piece of 1-1/4" aluminum rod into an
                > hourglass shape with a 5/8" center to serve as a shaft and spacer to
                > hold the plates 1-1/4" apart. The ends of the spindle holes formed
                > recesses into which I mounted ball bearings. Opposite the notches I
                > mounted a rod with a brass tube sleeve to engage the tickler. Machined
                > brass bolts form the pivots for the bearings. It spins very freely and
                > has a soft but firm release. I ended up using a small piece of plastic
                > pipe and some epoxy putty to form a cradle for the end of a Fellwalker
                > bolt but this wouldn't be needed for tube ammo. I'll see if I can put
                > some pictures of the bow and it's parts on the list photos section.
                > Carolus
                >
                > John Edgerton wrote:
                > > Carolus
                > >
                > > I would like to learn more about your "fabricated aluminum skeleton
                > > roller nut".
                > >
                > > Jon
                > >
                > >
                > > On Nov 17, 2009, at 1:55 PM, Carolus wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > >> I have used Mycrta as a replacement for ivory. I have used solid
                > metal
                > >> nuts and found them too heavy for good performance. For my combat
                > >> crossbow I used a fabricated aluminum skeleton roller nut.
                > >> Carolus
                > >>
                > >>
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > ------------------------------------
                > >
                > >
                > > ----------------------------------------------------------
                > >
                > >
                > > No virus found in this incoming message.
                > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                > > Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.68/2507 - Release Date:
                > 11/16/09 19:53:00
                > >
                > >
                > ----------
                >
                > No virus found in this outgoing message.
                > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                > Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.68/2507 - Release Date:
                > 11/16/09 19:53:00
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >
                >



                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • James W. Pratt, Jr.
                By light I would mean less than 200 lb. But that is not using wooden dowel rod material, but using a round sawn from a thick board and the notch cut from the
                Message 7 of 15 , Nov 17, 2009
                  By light I would mean less than 200 lb. But that is not using wooden dowel
                  rod material, but using a round sawn from a thick board and the notch cut
                  from the end grain of the round and the sear in the other end grain. Oh yea
                  do not even think about an axel for a wood nut. If it does not stay in the
                  "nut hole" nusfaden (sp) it in.



                  James Cunningham



                  If for a crossbow, horn would be more period appropriate. The Delrin that is
                  available on Alcheminc.com is intended to substitute for horn. You will
                  still have to shape it yourself.

                  If the prod is light enough, it can be done from hardwood. I have even heard
                  of it being done as lamination.

                  James






                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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