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Re: [SCA-Archery] New to the list

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  • ld.blackmoon
    greetings welcome you have a lot of top flight archers up in your neck of the woods. so you should be able to get some first hand help as well as what you find
    Message 1 of 16 , Jan 8, 2008
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      greetings

      welcome
      you have a lot of top flight archers up in your neck of the woods. so you should be able to get some first hand help as well as what you find on this list .

      be safe, be happy, have fun
      arthur blackmoon
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Andy Mueller
      To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 7:01 PM
      Subject: [SCA-Archery] New to the list


      Hello all -
      Just a short hello. I am Etienne Le Rouge from the Barony of Three Rivers
      in Calontir.
      I've been involved in SCA archery for about 10 years off and on, most of
      that with a Martin recurve.
      Two years ago I began shooting a factory-made laminated longbow, and this
      past summer, a friend and I decided to take on the project of building
      ourselves crossbows.
      I've built a crossbow loosely based on a period German sporting bow, using
      an ash tiller and Gladius steel prod, and I've shot it with good success
      thus far.
      My partner in crime is still waiting on some components to finish his
      crossbow, so mine is acting as our shared "test bed" until he can finish
      his.

      I currently make my own arrows and bowstrings, and at some point I'd like to
      begin the process of learning to make a period style d-section longbow -
      although I have to say that I'm procrastinating on that front. The thought
      of how many failed trail and error attempts, and how many hours of practice
      it will take to become reasonably good at it have me a bit intimidated. I
      would love to make my own yew selfbow, but I figure that taking a drawknife
      to an expensive yew stave isn't wise until one has put in some "apprentice"
      time on lesser (and cheaper) woods.

      Anyway, I signed on to the list to glean tips, tricks, advice and news - and
      share any pertinent information I may come across.
      Mostly, I'll probably just lurk, if that's okay. (Better to keep a closed
      mouth and be thought a fool, than to open it and remove all doubt.) :-)

      Cheers -
      Etienne

      Etienne LeRouge
      Barony of Three Rivers
      Kingdom of Calontir

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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    • Carolus
      I would like to suggest that you spend some time perusing the archives. Over the years many discussions have been held of bowmaking and there is a great deal
      Message 2 of 16 , Jan 9, 2008
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        I would like to suggest that you spend some time perusing the
        archives. Over the years many discussions have been held of
        bowmaking and there is a great deal to be gleaned there.
        Carolus

        At 05:01 PM 1/8/2008, you wrote:

        >Hello all -
        >Just a short hello. I am Etienne Le Rouge from the Barony of Three Rivers
        >in Calontir.
        >I've been involved in SCA archery for about 10 years off and on, most of
        >that with a Martin recurve.
        >Two years ago I began shooting a factory-made laminated longbow, and this
        >past summer, a friend and I decided to take on the project of building
        >ourselves crossbows.
        >I've built a crossbow loosely based on a period German sporting bow, using
        >an ash tiller and Gladius steel prod, and I've shot it with good success
        >thus far.
        >My partner in crime is still waiting on some components to finish his
        >crossbow, so mine is acting as our shared "test bed" until he can finish
        >his.
        >
        >I currently make my own arrows and bowstrings, and at some point I'd like to
        >begin the process of learning to make a period style d-section longbow -
        >although I have to say that I'm procrastinating on that front. The thought
        >of how many failed trail and error attempts, and how many hours of practice
        >it will take to become reasonably good at it have me a bit intimidated. I
        >would love to make my own yew selfbow, but I figure that taking a drawknife
        >to an expensive yew stave isn't wise until one has put in some "apprentice"
        >time on lesser (and cheaper) woods.
        >
        >Anyway, I signed on to the list to glean tips, tricks, advice and news - and
        >share any pertinent information I may come across.
        >Mostly, I'll probably just lurk, if that's okay. (Better to keep a closed
        >mouth and be thought a fool, than to open it and remove all doubt.) :-)
        >
        >Cheers -
        >Etienne
        >
        >Etienne LeRouge
        >Barony of Three Rivers
        >Kingdom of Calontir


        --
        No virus found in this outgoing message.
        Checked by AVG Free Edition.
        Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1214 - Release Date: 1/8/2008 1:38 PM
      • logantheboweyder
        Good advice, here, Ettiene, except instead of working with a board, go get yourself a hedge stave. Maclura Pomifera, hedgeapple, Osage Orange, bowdark, Bois
        Message 3 of 16 , Jan 9, 2008
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          Good advice, here, Ettiene, except instead of working with a board,
          go get yourself a hedge stave. Maclura Pomifera, hedgeapple, Osage
          Orange, bowdark, Bois d'Arc. They are readily available where you
          are from traditional bowyers, and a common farm weed tree. For your
          first, don't bother logging one yourself (It takes too long to dry),
          but spend the $40 to get a stave. They are much easier to work with
          than a hardwood board, and you will be more likely to get a bow that
          is a failure before you get an arrow out of it.

          My 2 cents,
          Logan

          --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Carl Marten
          <highlander_archer@...> wrote:
          >
          > Borrow , beg or buy the bowyers bible volumes. Start making you
          practice bows out of board staves from the hard wood store. Maple,
          hickory / ash, oak for starters. Remember to back these bows as you
          will almost never get one that has the gain just right. Start making
          six foot bows. Less stress and less chance of one breaking. After
          you make several hot shooters, try yew. I found it very enjoyable to
          work with. I made my first hunting bow out of yew, 80#. My next bow
          and the one I still use for IKACs and hunting is a character bow I
          made out of Osage. 60# and very fast.
          >
          > Have fun, Karl
          >
          > Andy Mueller <runs-with-scissors@...>
          wrote: Hello all -
          > Just a short hello. I am Etienne Le Rouge from the Barony of
          Three Rivers
          > in Calontir.
          > I've been involved in SCA archery for about 10 years off and on,
          most of
          > that with a Martin recurve.
          > Two years ago I began shooting a factory-made laminated longbow,
          and this
          > past summer, a friend and I decided to take on the project of
          building
          > ourselves crossbows.
          > I've built a crossbow loosely based on a period German sporting
          bow, using
          > an ash tiller and Gladius steel prod, and I've shot it with good
          success
          > thus far.
          > My partner in crime is still waiting on some components to finish
          his
          > crossbow, so mine is acting as our shared "test bed" until he can
          finish
          > his.
          >
          > I currently make my own arrows and bowstrings, and at some point
          I'd like to
          > begin the process of learning to make a period style d-section
          longbow -
          > although I have to say that I'm procrastinating on that front.
          The thought
          > of how many failed trail and error attempts, and how many hours
          of practice
          > it will take to become reasonably good at it have me a bit
          intimidated. I
          > would love to make my own yew selfbow, but I figure that taking a
          drawknife
          > to an expensive yew stave isn't wise until one has put in
          some "apprentice"
          > time on lesser (and cheaper) woods.
          >
          > Anyway, I signed on to the list to glean tips, tricks, advice and
          news - and
          > share any pertinent information I may come across.
          > Mostly, I'll probably just lurk, if that's okay. (Better to
          keep a closed
          > mouth and be thought a fool, than to open it and remove all
          doubt.) :-)
          >
          > Cheers -
          > Etienne
          >
          > Etienne LeRouge
          > Barony of Three Rivers
          > Kingdom of Calontir
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > http://www.shofars.us
          >
          >
          > ---------------------------------
          > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo!
          Mobile. Try it now.
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
        • arturdubh
          It s a trade-off...$40 for an Osage stave -- which if ruined, is a heart-breaker; or a $10 board -- which when ruined is just another piece of firewood (which
          Message 4 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
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            It's a trade-off...$40 for an Osage stave -- which if ruined, is a
            heart-breaker; or a $10 board -- which when ruined is just another
            piece of firewood (which it could have been anyway). I dunno, but I
            would rather spend $10 on a learning experience, even if the wood
            is "harder to work"...... Besides, a usable bow can be made out of a
            pine board, if it's all you can get (and even Yew is a 'soft-wood'
            compared to oak and maple). I've always heard that Osage is a bear to
            work.....

            --Artúr


            --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "logantheboweyder"
            <logantheboweyder@...> wrote:
            >
            > Good advice, here, Ettiene, except instead of working with a board,
            > go get yourself a hedge stave. Maclura Pomifera, hedgeapple, Osage
            > Orange, bowdark, Bois d'Arc. They are readily available where you
            > are from traditional bowyers, and a common farm weed tree. For
            your
            > first, don't bother logging one yourself (It takes too long to
            dry),
            > but spend the $40 to get a stave. They are much easier to work
            with
            > than a hardwood board, and you will be more likely to get a bow
            that
            > is a failure before you get an arrow out of it.
            >
            > My 2 cents,
            > Logan
            >
            > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, Carl Marten
            > <highlander_archer@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Borrow , beg or buy the bowyers bible volumes. Start making you
            > practice bows out of board staves from the hard wood store. Maple,
            > hickory / ash, oak for starters. Remember to back these bows as
            you
            > will almost never get one that has the gain just right. Start
            making
            > six foot bows. Less stress and less chance of one breaking. After
            > you make several hot shooters, try yew. I found it very enjoyable
            to
            > work with. I made my first hunting bow out of yew, 80#. My next bow
            > and the one I still use for IKACs and hunting is a character bow I
            > made out of Osage. 60# and very fast.
            > >
            > > Have fun, Karl
            > >
            > > Andy Mueller <runs-with-scissors@>
            > wrote: Hello all -
            > > Just a short hello. I am Etienne Le Rouge from the Barony of
            > Three Rivers
            > > in Calontir.
            > > I've been involved in SCA archery for about 10 years off and on,
            > most of
            > > that with a Martin recurve.
            > > Two years ago I began shooting a factory-made laminated longbow,
            > and this
            > > past summer, a friend and I decided to take on the project of
            > building
            > > ourselves crossbows.
            > > I've built a crossbow loosely based on a period German sporting
            > bow, using
            > > an ash tiller and Gladius steel prod, and I've shot it with good
            > success
            > > thus far.
            > > My partner in crime is still waiting on some components to
            finish
            > his
            > > crossbow, so mine is acting as our shared "test bed" until he
            can
            > finish
            > > his.
            > >
            > > I currently make my own arrows and bowstrings, and at some point
            > I'd like to
            > > begin the process of learning to make a period style d-section
            > longbow -
            > > although I have to say that I'm procrastinating on that front.
            > The thought
            > > of how many failed trail and error attempts, and how many hours
            > of practice
            > > it will take to become reasonably good at it have me a bit
            > intimidated. I
            > > would love to make my own yew selfbow, but I figure that taking
            a
            > drawknife
            > > to an expensive yew stave isn't wise until one has put in
            > some "apprentice"
            > > time on lesser (and cheaper) woods.
            > >
            > > Anyway, I signed on to the list to glean tips, tricks, advice
            and
            > news - and
            > > share any pertinent information I may come across.
            > > Mostly, I'll probably just lurk, if that's okay. (Better to
            > keep a closed
            > > mouth and be thought a fool, than to open it and remove all
            > doubt.) :-)
            > >
            > > Cheers -
            > > Etienne
            > >
            > > Etienne LeRouge
            > > Barony of Three Rivers
            > > Kingdom of Calontir
            > >
            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > http://www.shofars.us
            > >
            > >
            > > ---------------------------------
            > > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo!
            > Mobile. Try it now.
            > >
            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            >
          • THL Caedmon Wilson
            This past summer, I made a some practice attempts at making a longbow. Instead of going to the big box store to buy the wood, I went out to my parent s land
            Message 5 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
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              This past summer, I made a some practice attempts at making a longbow.
              Instead of going to the big box store to buy the wood, I went out to
              my parent's land and scouted a few 3" diameter trees. I decided to do
              the method of bow making from the Bowyer's Bible where you work the
              bow while the cut is still fresh and wet. My tree identification
              scores are poor, so I cannot tell you what kind of the wood it was.

              The end products looked like bows, but each failed due to flaws in the
              wood. It was more for the practice of tillering a bow, so I did not
              feel too bad. This coming summer, I will probably try again. It made
              for a pleasant hour out in the garage.

              -Caedmon
            • Oakes, George
              All I can say about making a bow that can help you is this. Go Slow! If you think your going slow enough, slow down even more. Take a couple whacks at the wood
              Message 6 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
              • 0 Attachment
                All I can say about making a bow that can help you is this.

                Go Slow!

                If you think your going slow enough, slow down even more.

                Take a couple whacks at the wood with whatever your using to scrape down
                the limbs, rasp, file, cabinet scraper, and check it on the tillering
                stick. Then go back and take a few more whacks. Check it again, repeat
                as nessesary

                Wood is very suseptable to the world and the environment around it, Keep
                a close eye on the grain, growth rings, and any possible knots. Dont cut
                out the knots, leave them in, go around them, and work them into the
                bow.

                Good luck on your future bows.

                Peace
                Gavin

                ________________________________

                From: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com]
                On Behalf Of THL Caedmon Wilson
                Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 8:01 AM
                To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Re: New to the list



                This past summer, I made a some practice attempts at making a longbow.
                Instead of going to the big box store to buy the wood, I went out to
                my parent's land and scouted a few 3" diameter trees. I decided to do
                the method of bow making from the Bowyer's Bible where you work the
                bow while the cut is still fresh and wet. My tree identification
                scores are poor, so I cannot tell you what kind of the wood it was.

                The end products looked like bows, but each failed due to flaws in the
                wood. It was more for the practice of tillering a bow, so I did not
                feel too bad. This coming summer, I will probably try again. It made
                for a pleasant hour out in the garage.

                -Caedmon





                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Dan Lind
                Okay, total newb question. How does one work a knot into a bow? No doubt the finished bow looks pretty cool, but how does the bowyer determine that the bow
                Message 7 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
                • 0 Attachment
                  Okay, total newb question. How does one work a knot into a bow? No doubt
                  the finished bow looks pretty cool, but how does the bowyer determine that
                  the bow will not explode when drawn? Wouldn't the knot form either a hard
                  or weak spot which could shatter when normal force is applied?

                  Christian


                  On 1/11/08, Oakes, George <goakes@... > wrote:
                  >
                  > Dont cut out the knots, leave them in, go around them, and work them
                  > into the bow.
                  > .
                  >
                  >
                  >


                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Richard Yeager
                  This is some good advice. At the risk of upsetting others i would disagree with some of hte other advice, at least at first. Wait until you have tried to
                  Message 8 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
                  • 0 Attachment
                    This is some good advice. At the risk of upsetting others i would disagree with some of hte other advice, at least at first. Wait until you have tried to make a couple f bows BEFORE going through the Boywer's Bibles. They really are not intended for "I've never done this before and am looking for a good how-to source" They are great books which are much more useful AFTER you have started making bows. Threy are a number of on-line guides for people just beginning that offer a better place to start (assuming you cannot find a bowyer to help at first). The Paleo-planet site also has some useful articles archived (and some of the authors of "the Bible" post there regularly). I would start with a board instead of a log. If you can, find one of the specialty lumber houses and try for a nice piece of Hickory or pecan. For about $15 to $20, you should be able to find a piece that will produce 5 or more staves to practice on. If you are lucky, they will have quarter sawn
                    stock. Barring hickory, some nice ash, hard maple, or red oak are also good choices. If you have to go to big box, find the red oak instead of the common pine.

                    Once you have it, as suggested, go slow. You can always remove more wood. You can't put Any back

                    Good Luck and have fun. Don't get discouraged. Even those of us that make these things commercially have a fair number of staves that never make it to finished bow.

                    Cuan mac Niall

                    "Oakes, George" <goakes@...> wrote: All I can say about making a bow that can help you is this.

                    Go Slow!

                    If you think your going slow enough, slow down even more.

                    Take a couple whacks at the wood with whatever your using to scrape down
                    the limbs, rasp, file, cabinet scraper, and check it on the tillering
                    stick. Then go back and take a few more whacks. Check it again, repeat
                    as nessesary

                    Wood is very suseptable to the world and the environment around it, Keep
                    a close eye on the grain, growth rings, and any possible knots. Dont cut
                    out the knots, leave them in, go around them, and work them into the
                    bow.

                    Good luck on your future bows.

                    Peace
                    Gavin

                    ________________________________

                    From: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com]
                    On Behalf Of THL Caedmon Wilson
                    Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 8:01 AM
                    To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Re: New to the list

                    This past summer, I made a some practice attempts at making a longbow.
                    Instead of going to the big box store to buy the wood, I went out to
                    my parent's land and scouted a few 3" diameter trees. I decided to do
                    the method of bow making from the Bowyer's Bible where you work the
                    bow while the cut is still fresh and wet. My tree identification
                    scores are poor, so I cannot tell you what kind of the wood it was.

                    The end products looked like bows, but each failed due to flaws in the
                    wood. It was more for the practice of tillering a bow, so I did not
                    feel too bad. This coming summer, I will probably try again. It made
                    for a pleasant hour out in the garage.

                    -Caedmon

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






                    ---------------------------------
                    Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • morgan wolf
                    I have to slightly disagree with Cuan, there are parts of the Bowyer s Bibles that *are* written for the first timer, but he is right that the vast majority of
                    Message 9 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
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                      I have to slightly disagree with Cuan, there are parts of the Bowyer's Bibles that *are* written for the first timer, but he is right that the vast majority of the information is written for an experienced bowyer/woodworker, so spending $50-$70 for the set before you've even tried to make a bow might not be the best plan. Check out http://www.xsorbit4.com/users/buildabow/index.cgi
                      for some great tips and build-alongs, as well as some really great "oops" info, so you can learn from the mistakes of others.

                      As for wood, i will echo the red oak sentiment, and I've found a few nice pieces at my local Lowes, just remember to look for good straight grain, no knots, and wide growth rings. A 72" 1"x2" makes a nice flatbow.

                      Morgan



                      ----- Original Message ----
                      From: Richard Yeager <chuymonstre@...>
                      To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 11:20:57 AM
                      Subject: RE: [SCA-Archery] Re: New to the list

                      This is some good advice. At the risk of upsetting others i would disagree with some of hte other advice, at least at first. Wait until you have tried to make a couple f bows BEFORE going through the Boywer's Bibles. They really are not intended for "I've never done this before and am looking for a good how-to source" They are great books which are much more useful AFTER you have started making bows. Threy are a number of on-line guides for people just beginning that offer a better place to start (assuming you cannot find a bowyer to help at first). The Paleo-planet site also has some useful articles archived (and some of the authors of "the Bible" post there regularly). I would start with a board instead of a log. If you can, find one of the specialty lumber houses and try for a nice piece of Hickory or pecan. For about $15 to $20, you should be able to find a piece that will produce 5 or more staves to practice on. If you are lucky, they will have
                      quarter sawn
                      stock. Barring hickory, some nice ash, hard maple, or red oak are also good choices. If you have to go to big box, find the red oak instead of the common pine.

                      Once you have it, as suggested, go slow. You can always remove more wood. You can't put Any back

                      Good Luck and have fun. Don't get discouraged. Even those of us that make these things commercially have a fair number of staves that never make it to finished bow.

                      Cuan mac Niall

                      "Oakes, George" <goakes@tiresplus. com> wrote: All I can say about making a bow that can help you is this.

                      Go Slow!

                      If you think your going slow enough, slow down even more.

                      Take a couple whacks at the wood with whatever your using to scrape down
                      the limbs, rasp, file, cabinet scraper, and check it on the tillering
                      stick. Then go back and take a few more whacks. Check it again, repeat
                      as nessesary

                      Wood is very suseptable to the world and the environment around it, Keep
                      a close eye on the grain, growth rings, and any possible knots. Dont cut
                      out the knots, leave them in, go around them, and work them into the
                      bow.

                      Good luck on your future bows.

                      Peace
                      Gavin

                      ____________ _________ _________ __

                      From: SCA-Archery@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:SCA-Archery@ yahoogroups. com]
                      On Behalf Of THL Caedmon Wilson
                      Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 8:01 AM
                      To: SCA-Archery@ yahoogroups. com
                      Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Re: New to the list

                      This past summer, I made a some practice attempts at making a longbow.
                      Instead of going to the big box store to buy the wood, I went out to
                      my parent's land and scouted a few 3" diameter trees. I decided to do
                      the method of bow making from the Bowyer's Bible where you work the
                      bow while the cut is still fresh and wet. My tree identification
                      scores are poor, so I cannot tell you what kind of the wood it was.

                      The end products looked like bows, but each failed due to flaws in the
                      wood. It was more for the practice of tillering a bow, so I did not
                      feel too bad. This coming summer, I will probably try again. It made
                      for a pleasant hour out in the garage.

                      -Caedmon

                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                      ------------ --------- --------- ---
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                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • morgan wolf
                      Trial and error- you build it, sometimes the little knot makes for interesting character , sometimes the limb snaps in your face when you draw it. Morgan ...
                      Message 10 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
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                        Trial and error- you build it, sometimes the little knot makes for interesting "character", sometimes the limb snaps in your face when you draw it.

                        Morgan



                        ----- Original Message ----
                        From: Dan Lind <darthnapster@...>
                        To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 10:57:19 AM
                        Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] Re: New to the list

                        Okay, total newb question. How does one work a knot into a bow? No doubt
                        the finished bow looks pretty cool, but how does the bowyer determine that
                        the bow will not explode when drawn? Wouldn't the knot form either a hard
                        or weak spot which could shatter when normal force is applied?

                        Christian

                        On 1/11/08, Oakes, George <goakes@tiresplus. com > wrote:
                        >
                        > Dont cut out the knots, leave them in, go around them, and work them
                        > into the bow.
                        > .
                        >
                        >
                        >

                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                        ____________________________________________________________________________________
                        Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
                        http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • logantheboweyder
                        YOu assume it will be a weak spot, and leave extra wood around it, enough that the bow has extra strength there. Logan ... No doubt ... determine that ...
                        Message 11 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
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                          YOu assume it will be a weak spot, and leave extra wood around it,
                          enough that the bow has extra strength there.

                          Logan

                          --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Lind" <darthnapster@...>
                          wrote:
                          >
                          > Okay, total newb question. How does one work a knot into a bow?
                          No doubt
                          > the finished bow looks pretty cool, but how does the bowyer
                          determine that
                          > the bow will not explode when drawn? Wouldn't the knot form
                          either a hard
                          > or weak spot which could shatter when normal force is applied?
                          >
                          > Christian
                          >
                          >
                          > On 1/11/08, Oakes, George <goakes@... > wrote:
                          > >
                          > > Dont cut out the knots, leave them in, go around them, and
                          work them
                          > > into the bow.
                          > > .
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          >
                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
                        • Dan Lind
                          Thank you ... -- Einarr the Christian Son of Håkon, GPA Côte du Ciel Artemisia (MKA Dan Lind) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          Message 12 of 16 , Jan 11, 2008
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Thank you

                            On 1/11/08, logantheboweyder <logantheboweyder@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > YOu assume it will be a weak spot, and leave extra wood around it,
                            > enough that the bow has extra strength there.
                            >
                            > Logan
                            >
                            > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com <SCA-Archery%40yahoogroups.com>, "Dan
                            > Lind" <darthnapster@...>
                            > wrote:
                            > >
                            > > Okay, total newb question. How does one work a knot into a bow?
                            > No doubt
                            > > the finished bow looks pretty cool, but how does the bowyer
                            > determine that
                            > > the bow will not explode when drawn? Wouldn't the knot form
                            > either a hard
                            > > or weak spot which could shatter when normal force is applied?
                            > >
                            > > Christian
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > On 1/11/08, Oakes, George <goakes@... > wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > Dont cut out the knots, leave them in, go around them, and
                            > work them
                            > > > into the bow.
                            > > > .
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            > >
                            >
                            >
                            >



                            --
                            Einarr the Christian Son of Håkon, GPA
                            Côte du Ciel
                            Artemisia
                            (MKA Dan Lind)


                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • zipper51em
                            Greetings to the list! I hope to make some new friends! Please allow me to introduce myself. My name is Omelan and I reside in the East Kingdom. I have been
                            Message 13 of 16 , Aug 29, 2009
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Greetings to the list! I hope to make some new friends! Please allow me to introduce myself. My name is Omelan and I reside in the East Kingdom. I have been an archer for many years, the last 18 in the SCA.
                              My longbow was made by Jay St. Charles (Pacific Yew Inc) Hickory backed Ipe, horn tipped, 76 inches long with a draw weight of 65lbs.(my baby) I shoot Poplar arrows with cow horn reinforced self nocks. I like to thread wrap the fletch with linen and coat the wraps with a mixture of hide glue and home grown verdigris. Brass points glued and pined. I don't use a quiver much but my arrow bag is like those illustrated in the book English Longbowman 1330-1515. On occasion I teach arrow making / building and bowstrings.
                              Thank You for allowing me to join this wonderful list!

                              Lord Omelan
                              Barony of Dragonship Haven
                              Archery Marshal
                              Capt. Of the Archers
                              AOA, OM, OSC
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