Re: [SCA-Archery] Sapling for a bow stave
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From: Carolus <eulenhorst@...>
> maple is used for the core of many fine laminate bows. It should beFritz rises again to the same old bait...
> fine for a self bow but might be a little shocky.
It's not the wood, it's the tillering and/or the arrow weight that cause handshock.
If the arrow isn't heavy enough, it leaves energy behind in the bow. That energy will find its way to the hand. The extreme case is loosing the string without any arrow at all.
If the tillering is flawed it can cause the grip to tilt or twist on release. Heavier arrows won't help that.
- --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "logantheboweyder"
> If you want something more authentically period, base yourdesign
> construction off of the construction of a osage orange bow in
> approximately chapter 3 of V1 of the Bowyer's Bible. The ELB
> of the Yew bow in chapter 4??? will be a dissapointment except in,I will point out that "ELB" yew bow by John Strunk in Volume 1 is
> as stated before, learning techniques.
not a true English Longbow at all. It is more of a cross between an
American Flatbow and an English Longbow.
But whether it is English Longbow, American Flatbow, transitional
bow, or board bow, it looks more period than a takedown recurve.
And you will enjoy the flights of your arrows even more with a bow
you built yourself
Tiller of ELB is pretty simple. Tiller of a flatbow is pretty simple
too. As Nigel pointed out earlier, it's not difficult, it's just
Your first bow will probably come out underweight or have too much
stringfollow or have a hinge. I have built around a dozen bows and a
whole lot of firewood but I still consider myself a rookie.
Have fun, start shaving