Re: request for information on reflex/deflex bow kits
- Having both a bamboo backed and a hickory backed bow, I can tell you
both are great materials to make your bow's back from.
My bamboo backed Padauk probably shoots a bit faster, but it's more
from the tiller than anything else.
Both bows are 60+lb, and they shoot within 5ft/s of each other. Of my
hickory backed yew bow, I have not heard many bows quieter, and of my
bamboo backed bow, I have not shot many bows smoother.
Other cultures mention that one should "listen" to your bow. Indeed it
will tell you a lot about how it is functioning, and energy transfer.
You should also "feel" your bow. Handshock can come from many places
but the two biggest are: mismatched arrow weight (physical), and
mismatched limb tips (speed). Relates to what I posted before.
- Go get a copy of the current (Either March-April, or April-May, I
forget which) Primitive Archer magazine. It has step-by-step
instructions on exactly how to make your own Reflex-Deflex longbow.
The only thing that I saw that it left out was how to source your
--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <evilmonkey@...> wrote:
> I'm new to this list, so my apologies if these questions were
previously answered. I purchased a very functional 72 inch longbow,
which I am quite satisified with, except for the release shock. I
also am afraid that the bow is a bit to light for my preference on
draw. so I started researching what other cost effective means were
available to build something, a little more elegant and
personalized. I was directed to rudderbows by Philip Silva, and
after an email with the owner he recommended I use either a 'u
finish bow' or a reflex deflex kit (
> I do not want to rush into a misinformed, or poorly decided
purchase, and I was curious if anyone else on the list has done
business with them, or could perhaps give me an informed opinion on
the reflex/deflex style longbows. From what I've seen online, they
are effectively a hybrid between a longbow and recurve, with a
slightly improved FPS & significantly reduced release shock. The
drawback to shopping online of course is buyer beware.
> I've never built a bow before, in fact my woodworking skills are
relatively nonexistant, however I am not intimidated at the project,
very worse case scenario I end up with an expensive lot of firewood.
I am curious however what those more informed might recommend, if
its above the skillset of a beginner to accomplish, or if I should
even be looking at a 'cheap' bow. Bow material is another question
that I have, Bamboo? Is it worthwhile? I'm currently using a
hickory/osange ELB, and I do like the look and relative limb
response, although I have no basis of comparison.
> Thank you for any information, suggestions, or opinions you can
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- When Godwin fitzGilbert de Strigoil put fingers to keys it was
3/26/07 4:53 PM...
> ... Handshock can come from many placesWhen tillering:
> but the two biggest are: mismatched arrow weight (physical), and
> mismatched limb tips (speed). Relates to what I posted before.
As you draw the bow on the tillering stick, watch the handle for any
tipping or turning. Carve the bow so the handle stays utterly still
while drawing on the stick. Any movement it makes during the draw, it
'unmakes' on release. In your hand. All at once. Every time. Handshock.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam.