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Re: [SCA-Archery] String Nocks

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  • jay
    I wrap a bit of artificial sinew or serving thread around the string to make a nock point. (Kinda gotta if you use self-nocked arrows). Artificial sinew is
    Message 1 of 12 , Jul 11, 2006
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      I wrap a bit of artificial sinew or serving thread around the string
      to make a nock point. (Kinda gotta if you use self-nocked arrows).

      Artificial sinew is waxed and easier to move for minor adjustments.

      Calum


      At 7/11/2006, you wrote:
      >Research project: What are period (loosely) string nocks. I'm looking
      >for something other than the common brass nocks that are readily
      >availible.
      >
      >Any ideas?
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >--
      >[Email to SCA-Archery-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com to leave this list]
      >
      >Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • thmcinnish
      This link has good instructions on how to install a string nock. I am a little slow at times and it took a few shots to get it right but it does work. I
      Message 2 of 12 , Jul 11, 2006
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        This link has good instructions on how to install a string nock. I am
        a little slow at times and it took a few shots to get it right but it
        does work. I installed one nock and have been toying with the idea of
        adding a second.

        http://www3.sympatico.ca/ragiwarmbear/diy/ton/tie.html
      • John edgerton
        Waxed thread is a less modern replacement. There is some question if nocking points were commonly used in period. Jon ... [Non-text portions of this message
        Message 3 of 12 , Jul 11, 2006
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          Waxed thread is a less modern replacement. There is some question if
          nocking points were commonly used in period.

          Jon
          On Tuesday, July 11, 2006, at 12:51 PM, Michael Tyderek wrote:

          > Research project: What are period (loosely) string nocks. I'm looking
          > for something other than the common brass nocks that are readily
          > availible.
          >
          > Any ideas?

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Jason C. Russo
          http://www.student.utwente.nl/~sagi/artikel/turkish/ Check these out. Authentic Turkish flight arrows, but they look tedius to make. ... [Non-text portions of
          Message 4 of 12 , Jul 11, 2006
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            http://www.student.utwente.nl/~sagi/artikel/turkish/

            Check these out. Authentic Turkish flight arrows, but they look tedius to
            make.


            On 7/11/06, Michael Tyderek <scadougal@...> wrote:
            >
            > Research project: What are period (loosely) string nocks. I'm looking
            > for something other than the common brass nocks that are readily
            > availible.
            >
            > Any ideas?
            >
            >
            >


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Bruce R. Gordon
            Greetings There are many alternatives to the little metal dinguses (dingi ?) - waxed threading, serving of differing colors, that sort of thing. But as to
            Message 5 of 12 , Jul 11, 2006
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              Greetings

              There are many alternatives to the little metal dinguses (dingi ?) - waxed threading, serving of differing colors, that sort of thing. But as to period practice? Can't say they didn't, and it seems it would be an obvious idea and easy to arrange - but I've never seen any pictures showing such a thing, nor read any period commentaries that refer to placement points unmistakably; Ascham doesn't mention them (but then, there's a lot that Ascham seems to glide over in silence...).

              Nigel

              Research project: What are period (loosely) string nocks. I'm looking
              > for something other than the common brass nocks that are readily
              > availible.
              >
              > Any ideas?
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              --
              Three things never heard from the mouth of a Celt:
              "Do these colors match?"
              "Is this too much jewelry?"
              "Is that my drink?"

              http://web.raex.com/~obsidian/index.html


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • James Koch
              I have made waxed linen strings. These tend to mash down a bit where the nock pinches. Perhaps with natural materials for strings, additional nocks weren t
              Message 6 of 12 , Jul 11, 2006
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                I have made waxed linen strings. These tend to mash down a bit where the
                nock pinches. Perhaps with natural materials for strings, additional nocks
                weren't necessary. I shot without one on my old bow for years, but I have
                a pretty good eye for nock placement. A good way to answer this question
                is to look at primitive bows used in more modern times.
                >
                Jim Koch (Gladius The Alchemist)
                >
                >
                >At 08:25 PM 7/11/2006, you wrote:

                >Greetings
                >
                >There are many alternatives to the little metal dinguses (dingi ?) - waxed
                >threading, serving of differing colors, that sort of thing. But as to
                >period practice? Can't say they didn't, and it seems it would be an
                >obvious idea and easy to arrange - but I've never seen any pictures
                >showing such a thing, nor read any period commentaries that refer to
                >placement points unmistakably; Ascham doesn't mention them (but then,
                >there's a lot that Ascham seems to glide over in silence...).
                >
                >Nigel
                >
                >Research project: What are period (loosely) string nocks. I'm looking
                > > for something other than the common brass nocks that are readily
                > > availible.
                > >
                > > Any ideas?
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >--
                >Three things never heard from the mouth of a Celt:
                >"Do these colors match?"
                >"Is this too much jewelry?"
                >"Is that my drink?"
                >
                ><http://web.raex.com/~obsidian/index.html>http://web.raex.com/~obsidian/index.html
                >
                >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >
                >


                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Carl West
                ... Yup, that s one way. What works for me (mind you I worship consistency before speed) is to serve it on. I do this on a flemish or twined string where
                Message 7 of 12 , Jul 11, 2006
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                  thmcinnish wrote:
                  > This link has good instructions on how to install a string nock. I am
                  > a little slow at times and it took a few shots to get it right but it
                  > does work. I installed one nock and have been toying with the idea of
                  > adding a second.
                  >
                  > http://www3.sympatico.ca/ragiwarmbear/diy/ton/tie.html

                  Yup, that's one way.

                  What works for me (mind you I worship consistency before speed) is to
                  'serve' it on.
                  I do this on a 'flemish' or twined string where the nocking area has
                  been thickened by adding into the twining instead of adding the dead
                  weight of serving.

                  I make my nocks about a finger's width along the string. Much more
                  comfortable to shoot.

                  String the bow

                  mark the point where you want the arrow to contact the nocking point
                  with a pen or pencil. (above, below, up to you, and how you determine it
                  is up to you too).
                  For the example assume the arrow nocks under the nocking point.

                  unstring the bow

                  Lay an inch or two of one end of a 12 - 18" strand of 20-30 pound linen
                  (waxed) between the strands of the string at your mark.

                  re string the bow

                  firmly and tightly, with the short end hanging down (pointed toward the
                  bottom of the bow), take one turn of the long end around the bow string.

                  flip the short end up and take several more tight turns around the
                  bowstring working upward, keeping the short end taut

                  do this for about half the final width, then do the serving-ending
                  under-the-loop wrapping trick* for as many turns as you've already made,
                  leaving the short end out of it.

                  when that's all drawn up tight, trim flush the two ends coming out of
                  the middle of the nocking point.

                  Smooth, comfortable, cheap and requires no special tools, just some of
                  the linen you made your string with in the first place.


                  * Yeah, I know, I glossed over the magic part, I'm looking for a
                  description that's already on the web, haven't found one yet. It's a
                  tough one to describe without pictures and it's late, I'm not up to
                  making pictures just now. If someone knows what I'm on about and can
                  point to a good description, that'd be cool.

                  - Fritz
                • thmcinnish
                  Can you clarify about thickening the string? Are you splicing in additional material to the flemish string or are you using using twining in place of the
                  Message 8 of 12 , Jul 12, 2006
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                    Can you clarify about thickening the string? Are you splicing in
                    additional material to the flemish string or are you using using
                    twining in place of the serving?

                    I have been looking for a way to thicken my string to improve the
                    string to nock fit. If there is a better way to improve the fit so
                    that it is more positive I would be open to that idea also.

                    Many thanks,
                    Thomas


                    > Yup, that's one way.
                    >
                    > What works for me (mind you I worship consistency before speed) is
                    to
                    > 'serve' it on.
                    > I do this on a 'flemish' or twined string where the nocking area
                    has
                    > been thickened by adding into the twining instead of adding the
                    dead
                    > weight of serving.
                    >
                    > I make my nocks about a finger's width along the string. Much more
                    > comfortable to shoot.
                    >
                    > String the bow
                    >
                    > mark the point where you want the arrow to contact the nocking
                    point
                    > with a pen or pencil. (above, below, up to you, and how you
                    determine it
                    > is up to you too).
                    > For the example assume the arrow nocks under the nocking point.
                    >
                    > unstring the bow
                    >
                    > Lay an inch or two of one end of a 12 - 18" strand of 20-30 pound
                    linen
                    > (waxed) between the strands of the string at your mark.
                    >
                    > re string the bow
                    >
                    > firmly and tightly, with the short end hanging down (pointed toward
                    the
                    > bottom of the bow), take one turn of the long end around the bow
                    string.
                    >
                    > flip the short end up and take several more tight turns around the
                    > bowstring working upward, keeping the short end taut
                    >
                    > do this for about half the final width, then do the serving-ending
                    > under-the-loop wrapping trick* for as many turns as you've already
                    made,
                    > leaving the short end out of it.
                    >
                    > when that's all drawn up tight, trim flush the two ends coming out
                    of
                    > the middle of the nocking point.
                    >
                    > Smooth, comfortable, cheap and requires no special tools, just some
                    of
                    > the linen you made your string with in the first place.
                    >
                    >
                    > * Yeah, I know, I glossed over the magic part, I'm looking for a
                    > description that's already on the web, haven't found one yet. It's
                    a
                    > tough one to describe without pictures and it's late, I'm not up to
                    > making pictures just now. If someone knows what I'm on about and
                    can
                    > point to a good description, that'd be cool.
                    >
                    > - Fritz
                    >
                  • dmerrill@omnicityusa.com
                    Different serving material had different thicknesses, you might look to find a spool of thicker serving material. Rask ... This message was sent using IMP, the
                    Message 9 of 12 , Jul 12, 2006
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                      Different serving material had different thicknesses, you might look to find a
                      spool of thicker serving material.

                      Rask


                      Quoting thmcinnish <thmcinnish@...>:

                      > Can you clarify about thickening the string? Are you splicing in
                      > additional material to the flemish string or are you using using
                      > twining in place of the serving?
                      >
                      > I have been looking for a way to thicken my string to improve the
                      > string to nock fit. If there is a better way to improve the fit so
                      > that it is more positive I would be open to that idea also.
                      >
                      > Many thanks,
                      > Thomas
                      >
                      >
                      > > Yup, that's one way.
                      > >
                      > > What works for me (mind you I worship consistency before speed) is
                      > to
                      > > 'serve' it on.
                      > > I do this on a 'flemish' or twined string where the nocking area
                      > has
                      > > been thickened by adding into the twining instead of adding the
                      > dead
                      > > weight of serving.
                      > >
                      > > I make my nocks about a finger's width along the string. Much more
                      > > comfortable to shoot.
                      > >
                      > > String the bow
                      > >
                      > > mark the point where you want the arrow to contact the nocking
                      > point
                      > > with a pen or pencil. (above, below, up to you, and how you
                      > determine it
                      > > is up to you too).
                      > > For the example assume the arrow nocks under the nocking point.
                      > >
                      > > unstring the bow
                      > >
                      > > Lay an inch or two of one end of a 12 - 18" strand of 20-30 pound
                      > linen
                      > > (waxed) between the strands of the string at your mark.
                      > >
                      > > re string the bow
                      > >
                      > > firmly and tightly, with the short end hanging down (pointed toward
                      > the
                      > > bottom of the bow), take one turn of the long end around the bow
                      > string.
                      > >
                      > > flip the short end up and take several more tight turns around the
                      > > bowstring working upward, keeping the short end taut
                      > >
                      > > do this for about half the final width, then do the serving-ending
                      > > under-the-loop wrapping trick* for as many turns as you've already
                      > made,
                      > > leaving the short end out of it.
                      > >
                      > > when that's all drawn up tight, trim flush the two ends coming out
                      > of
                      > > the middle of the nocking point.
                      > >
                      > > Smooth, comfortable, cheap and requires no special tools, just some
                      > of
                      > > the linen you made your string with in the first place.
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > * Yeah, I know, I glossed over the magic part, I'm looking for a
                      > > description that's already on the web, haven't found one yet. It's
                      > a
                      > > tough one to describe without pictures and it's late, I'm not up to
                      > > making pictures just now. If someone knows what I'm on about and
                      > can
                      > > point to a good description, that'd be cool.
                      > >
                      > > - Fritz
                      > >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >




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                    • Carl West
                      ... The former I think. Note: I m using twine here as the verb that denotes the process of reverse-twisting used to assemble a flemish string. When I make
                      Message 10 of 12 , Jul 12, 2006
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                        thmcinnish wrote:
                        > Can you clarify about thickening the string? Are you splicing in
                        > additional material to the flemish string or are you using using
                        > twining in place of the serving?

                        The former I think.


                        Note: I'm using 'twine' here as the verb that denotes the process of
                        reverse-twisting used to assemble a 'flemish' string.


                        When I make the eye-loop, I add in a number of extra strands of linen,
                        usually 50% more. I twine the string together until the reinforcing
                        strands have run out and go an inch or two more.

                        I leave the strands straight until I get to a few inches above the
                        nocking area. Then I begin twining again. After an inch or so, I'll add
                        in a strand. It's about 16" long and I tuck it's middle into the crotch
                        of the twisting, straighten the twisted 'legs' so I can lay the new
                        strand smoothly in with the others. Then I make another twist or two and
                        add another strand. Keep doing this until the string fits very snugly in
                        your nocks. As the string stretches, it will shrink in diameter, take
                        that into account.

                        I twine past the end of the reinforcements again then leave it straight
                        until I get to the bottom of the string and I twine in reinforcements
                        for the area that'll have the bowyer's hitch, then I taper it out and
                        ideally end it with a _tiny_ figure-eight in the last few fibers of the
                        string.

                        Have I answered your question?


                        I prefer to reinforce the nocking area instead of serving it.
                        Serving hides the area that wears out on a linen string. For me, anyway,
                        that area cares not whether it is in direct contact with the arrow, it
                        wears out in it's time. If that part is bare, you can see when it's time
                        to replace the string _before_ it's dangling from your bow in two pieces.
                        And, serving adds no strength to the string. It is purely defensive. If
                        I'm going to add weight to the string, I want to get as much function
                        out of it as I can.


                        - Fritz
                      • thmcinnish
                        ... of ... linen, ... add ... crotch ... two and ... snugly in ... take ... straight ... reinforcements ... and ... the ... That answers my question. It is
                        Message 11 of 12 , Jul 13, 2006
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                          > Note: I'm using 'twine' here as the verb that denotes the process
                          of
                          > reverse-twisting used to assemble a 'flemish' string.
                          >
                          >
                          > When I make the eye-loop, I add in a number of extra strands of
                          linen,
                          > usually 50% more. I twine the string together until the reinforcing
                          > strands have run out and go an inch or two more.
                          >
                          > I leave the strands straight until I get to a few inches above the
                          > nocking area. Then I begin twining again. After an inch or so, I'll
                          add
                          > in a strand. It's about 16" long and I tuck it's middle into the
                          crotch
                          > of the twisting, straighten the twisted 'legs' so I can lay the new
                          > strand smoothly in with the others. Then I make another twist or
                          two and
                          > add another strand. Keep doing this until the string fits very
                          snugly in
                          > your nocks. As the string stretches, it will shrink in diameter,
                          take
                          > that into account.
                          >
                          > I twine past the end of the reinforcements again then leave it
                          straight
                          > until I get to the bottom of the string and I twine in
                          reinforcements
                          > for the area that'll have the bowyer's hitch, then I taper it out
                          and
                          > ideally end it with a _tiny_ figure-eight in the last few fibers of
                          the
                          > string.
                          >
                          > Have I answered your question?

                          That answers my question. It is difficult to visualize so I'll have
                          to get some material out and start experimenting. I am still new to
                          archery and string making so it will just take time to learn.

                          Thank you.
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