- So what you are saying is that fully period bows are less accurate (in general) in the competitions than fiberglass/wood ones? I ve haven t gotten enoughMessage 1 of 65 , May 2, 2000View SourceSo what you are saying is that fully period bows are less accurate (in general) in the competitions than fiberglass/wood ones? I've haven't gotten enough experience under my belt to tell what's what in Archery, yet, but I do know my Sig Saur definitely shoots better then my Ruger (handguns). Is it possible you would do better with a different authentic bow?
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Nogy
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 11:12 PM
Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] fiberglass in the period division?
So I will keep shooting and participating at a competitive disadvantage and taking my lumps every time I try to improve the lot of things, because I believe in the simplicity of the idea you saw from my post enough to pursue it.
Archer General of Calontir
Huscarl of his Majesty's Army
Warrior archer who works hard to be period but not an officer of the authenticity police.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- Make your draw plate out of a piece of 16 gauge stainless, 7 x 2 inches. Lay out 2 rows of holes - 6 holes per row. Drill 2 holes (up and down from each other)Message 65 of 65 , May 9, 2000View SourceMake your draw plate out of a piece of 16 gauge stainless, 7 x 2 inches.
Lay out 2 rows of holes - 6 holes per row.
Drill 2 holes (up and down from each other) 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8, 13/32
On the bottom row, use a 4 flute countersink to bevel the edge to paper thin. (the 4 flute countersink has a tendency to chatter in steel, that is why it is good. It will make the exit side of the hole slightly larger that the original and somewhat ragged).
Use the bevelled hole as a scraper (pull a little tension on the scraper, then pull it up and down the shaft, rotating the shaft as you work) and use the clean hole as a gauge.
Stop at the hole just before the one you want, finish with sandpaper and your spine tester and scale.
It works pretty fast after you get the hang of it, so the work goes quickly.
With this setup you can do almost all the shaft sizes and spines you want.
As soon as I get the time, I have some photos of the equipment, plus some other devices I have designed to help in the small shop, that I am going to put on a web page. I'll let the address be known when I get it done, but it looks like it will be next week or later.