Re: [SCA-Archery] fiberglass in the period division?
> Actually , it wouldn't be the fact that we use sewing machines.....ItIt does seem strange that we, the archery community, can't seem
> would be because we didn't raise the sheep, sheer them , wash and
> comb the wool, hand spin it into yarn , weave on an open loom, and
> THEN cut and sew by hand.<G>
to reach any kind of clear concensus about whether we're more
concerned about archery or making archery equipment. Or, for
that matter, we can't seem to recognize that each archer's SCA
goals just *might* be different.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't recall *any* stirring
tales about Robin Hood tillering a bow or plucking goose feathers.
For that matter, I'm pretty sure I've never heard a story about
William Tell adjusting the tickler on his crossbow or lacing on the
It's my hunch that many of us are pretty familiar with the history
and craft of bowyering and fletching, but aren't particularly
interested in *doing* it. I, for one, know how my laminated longbow
differs from a period ELB. I know how my arrows (which I make
using modern equipment) differ from their medieval counterparts.
But, like the man said, I have other SCA interests than making
reproduction equipment. My personal enjoyment from archery
stems more from shooting periodesque equipment in periodesque
shoots than from making (or buying) period reproductions to
particate in mundane shoots (RR, IKAC, etc.).
There are SCAdians out there shooting period reproductions with
period arrows who have *no* inkling how they were made nor why
they are made the way they are. At the same time, there are
walking archery encyclopedia's out there shooting K-Mart
fiberglass bows and crappy mismatched arrows. Somewhere in
between are the people who have a smatterig of knowledge about
archery history & basic equipment and shoot varying degrees of
periodesque equipment. Which group more clearly embodies the
"spirit of SCA archery?" IMHO, the equipment they use is the
*least* most important element in the equation.
How about we all just admit that there are different camps of
archers with different _but entirely valid_ goals for their pursuit of
archery excellence within the SCA and proceed from there. Okay?
- Make your draw plate out of a piece of 16 gauge stainless, 7 x 2 inches.
Lay out 2 rows of holes - 6 holes per row.
Drill 2 holes (up and down from each other) 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8, 13/32
On the bottom row, use a 4 flute countersink to bevel the edge to paper thin. (the 4 flute countersink has a tendency to chatter in steel, that is why it is good. It will make the exit side of the hole slightly larger that the original and somewhat ragged).
Use the bevelled hole as a scraper (pull a little tension on the scraper, then pull it up and down the shaft, rotating the shaft as you work) and use the clean hole as a gauge.
Stop at the hole just before the one you want, finish with sandpaper and your spine tester and scale.
It works pretty fast after you get the hang of it, so the work goes quickly.
With this setup you can do almost all the shaft sizes and spines you want.
As soon as I get the time, I have some photos of the equipment, plus some other devices I have designed to help in the small shop, that I am going to put on a web page. I'll let the address be known when I get it done, but it looks like it will be next week or later.