RE: [SCA-Archery] Re: splicing arrows
- I use Purple Heart, Red Heart, Cocobolo (although this wood is tricky to
work in a footing), Bubinga, and a few other exotic hard woods. I had
wanted to try Ebony, but was advised that it is too "greasy" to work well as
a footing (same problem as the Cocobolo, but do-able). Poplar also works -
I though it would look smashing on a Walnut shaft - but the wood density is
not so different that it would probably be anything more than ornamental.
Wood density is important if you want: a) a stronger (relatively) front end
to your arrow, ideally to withstand the whacks it will take; and b) to add
front weight to your arrow and change the balance point forward. I find the
second matter to be most important for my shooting - but that's just me.
The same could be achieved with a heavier point.
Typically, I use an eight-inch blank with a square cross-section
(~3/8"-1/2"), split them corner to corner a depth of five inches, so three
inches will remain solid at the point end and five will taper up the shaft.
When you plane the footing down is when you make it straight. Chucking the
nock end in a power drill and spinning it through a sized/sand-paper lined
channel makes it very round, smooth, and you can taper it to whatever
dimensions you wish. If you do this, do it before you cut the shaft to
length; you'll want to cut off the chucked end, as it will be somewhat
deformed. Therefore, if you want to add more than three inches to the arrow
length (32+3=35, but in your case that's not long enough after you cut at
least an inch off nock end), I'd extend the length of the footing, rather
than shorten the split length. Much shorter than 5" to taper the shaft and
footing together makes for too steep a join and results in splitting the
As for staining the wood a different color before you bind the two pieces
together, I've contemplated that, but can't figure out how I'd touch it up
after I planed/sanded the roughness out of the footing (and the stained
surface along with it). I foresee lots of touch-up staining, which would
likely bleed onto the shaft and might end up being more work that it would
be worth. If you have some other ideas on how to do that, I'm interested.
Just imagine the colors!
From: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of jameswolfden
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2005 12:15 AM
Subject: [SCA-Archery] Re: splicing arrows
Volume 3 of the Traditional Bowyers Bible describes how to do
the two point footing and the four point footing. The spining
would depend on a number of factors but it would start from the
draw weight at the archer's drawlength. In this case, 50 pounds.
Bows that are center shot require higher spining. Bows that are
not centershot (longbows) like lower spining.
The spining of an arrow is based on it length at 28 inches. A
longer arrow will have a lower effective spine.
I am sure that the footing itself would have an effect on the
apparent spining but I don't know how it would affect it.
If you start with 32" shafts, then you won't have to make the
footing excessively long.
--- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Terri & Gary"
> Hi!I know that
> New Subject, though I know that we've discussed this before.
> I have a person with a 35" in draw, that needs to splice arrows.
> the front end wood should be denser than the back section, butI couldn't
> find whether we should just add the 5" or maybe longer, andwhether a
> dovetail splice, straight splice or a miter? would be best, andhow to use
> the clamp to make sure the shaft is straight.project? And which
> Which woods does everyone think is best to use in this
> splice do you prefer?length. He anchors
> And yes, I've measured several times to make sure of the
> at his mouth to lessen the length. He's had friends make himbows, which are
> 40#, but his pull length takes them up to 50#. (He's had hisfriends measure
> that also).for 40, 45 of 50
> Which leads to the second question. Do we spline the arrow
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