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Re: [SCA-Archery] splicing arrows

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  • Mike O'Toole
    ... purpleheart, damn spell checker! ... managed to type it properly that time :-) Michael O Byrne
    Message 1 of 8 , Jun 30, 2005
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      Mike O'Toole wrote:

      > Wood type depends on your goal, purple hard is very nice to look at but

      purpleheart, damn spell checker!

      > Maple can also be used and you could also use oak though they would not
      > give as much contrast as with the purpleheart.

      managed to type it properly that time :-)

      Michael O'Byrne
    • Talmon Parker
      My two cents worth.... If you want a contrasting footed piece on the arrow Then stain it before you make your splice. Then you can make it day-glo purple if
      Message 2 of 8 , Jul 1, 2005
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        My two cents worth.... If you want a contrasting footed piece on the arrow
        Then stain it before you make your splice. Then you can make it day-glo
        purple if you wish.

        Talmon






        DER BARON




        >From: Mike O'Toole <mike.otoole@...>
        >Reply-To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
        >To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
        >Subject: Re: [SCA-Archery] splicing arrows
        >Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 20:47:17 -0600
        >
        >Terri & Gary wrote:
        > > Hi!
        > > New Subject, though I know that we've discussed this before.
        > >
        > > I have a person with a 35" in draw, that needs to splice arrows. I know
        >that
        > > the front end wood should be denser than the back section, but I
        >couldn't
        > > find whether we should just add the 5" or maybe longer, and whether a
        > > dovetail splice, straight splice or a miter? would be best, and how to
        >use
        > > the clamp to make sure the shaft is straight.
        > > Which woods does everyone think is best to use in this project? And
        >which
        > > splice do you prefer?
        >
        >I prefer to add 7 inches (anything less than seven inches is a waste of
        >time:-)
        >
        >Wood type depends on your goal, purple hard is very nice to look at but
        >brazil and holly are mentioned in Toxophilus.
        >
        >Maple can also be used and you could also use oak though they would not
        >give as much contrast as with the purpleheart.
        >
        >Fishtail splice is definitely easier and documentable, again mentioned
        >in Toxophilus. The clamp is only there to provide pressure while the
        >glue sets, your eyes make sure it is straight :-)
        >
        >happy splicing,
        >
        >Michael O'Byrne
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > >
        > > And yes, I've measured several times to make sure of the length. He
        >anchors
        > > at his mouth to lessen the length. He's had friends make him bows, which
        >are
        > > 40#, but his pull length takes them up to 50#. (He's had his friends
        >measure
        > > that also).
        > > Which leads to the second question. Do we spline the arrow for 40, 45 of
        >50
        > > poundage?
        > >
        > > Roewynne
        >
        >
        >
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      • Kinjal of Moravia
        ... ++++ has he ever tried a siper -- that medieval Turkish device for extending draw? He s had friends make him bows, which are ... +++ a number of
        Message 3 of 8 , Jul 1, 2005
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          --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Terri & Gary" <TSHURGIN@c...>
          wrote:
          > Hi!
          > New Subject, though I know that we've discussed this before.
          >
          > I have a person with a 35" in draw, that needs to splice arrows.

          ++++ has he ever tried a 'siper' -- that medieval Turkish device for
          extending draw?


          He's had friends make him bows, which are
          > 40#, but his pull length takes them up to 50#.

          +++ a number of different horsebow designs will readily and
          consistently pull to 35" with little poundage shift. I have read
          that some Korean bows can pull most of their length, e.g. a 39" bow
          can pull 36" -- neat, and unstrung they are only a 1 foot diameter
          circle! Love to have one.

          kinjal
        • Kristine Casper
          I use Purple Heart, Red Heart, Cocobolo (although this wood is tricky to work in a footing), Bubinga, and a few other exotic hard woods. I had wanted to try
          Message 4 of 8 , Jul 1, 2005
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            I use Purple Heart, Red Heart, Cocobolo (although this wood is tricky to
            work in a footing), Bubinga, and a few other exotic hard woods. I had
            wanted to try Ebony, but was advised that it is too "greasy" to work well as
            a footing (same problem as the Cocobolo, but do-able). Poplar also works -
            I though it would look smashing on a Walnut shaft - but the wood density is
            not so different that it would probably be anything more than ornamental.

            Wood density is important if you want: a) a stronger (relatively) front end
            to your arrow, ideally to withstand the whacks it will take; and b) to add
            front weight to your arrow and change the balance point forward. I find the
            second matter to be most important for my shooting - but that's just me.
            The same could be achieved with a heavier point.

            Typically, I use an eight-inch blank with a square cross-section
            (~3/8"-1/2"), split them corner to corner a depth of five inches, so three
            inches will remain solid at the point end and five will taper up the shaft.
            When you plane the footing down is when you make it straight. Chucking the
            nock end in a power drill and spinning it through a sized/sand-paper lined
            channel makes it very round, smooth, and you can taper it to whatever
            dimensions you wish. If you do this, do it before you cut the shaft to
            length; you'll want to cut off the chucked end, as it will be somewhat
            deformed. Therefore, if you want to add more than three inches to the arrow
            length (32+3=35, but in your case that's not long enough after you cut at
            least an inch off nock end), I'd extend the length of the footing, rather
            than shorten the split length. Much shorter than 5" to taper the shaft and
            footing together makes for too steep a join and results in splitting the
            footing.

            As for staining the wood a different color before you bind the two pieces
            together, I've contemplated that, but can't figure out how I'd touch it up
            after I planed/sanded the roughness out of the footing (and the stained
            surface along with it). I foresee lots of touch-up staining, which would
            likely bleed onto the shaft and might end up being more work that it would
            be worth. If you have some other ideas on how to do that, I'm interested.
            Just imagine the colors!

            Laebeth

            -----Original Message-----
            From: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com]On
            Behalf Of jameswolfden
            Sent: Friday, July 01, 2005 12:15 AM
            To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: [SCA-Archery] Re: splicing arrows


            Volume 3 of the Traditional Bowyers Bible describes how to do
            the two point footing and the four point footing. The spining
            would depend on a number of factors but it would start from the
            draw weight at the archer's drawlength. In this case, 50 pounds.

            Bows that are center shot require higher spining. Bows that are
            not centershot (longbows) like lower spining.

            The spining of an arrow is based on it length at 28 inches. A
            longer arrow will have a lower effective spine.

            I am sure that the footing itself would have an effect on the
            apparent spining but I don't know how it would affect it.

            If you start with 32" shafts, then you won't have to make the
            footing excessively long.

            James Wolfden

            --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, "Terri & Gary"
            <TSHURGIN@c...> wrote:
            > Hi!
            > New Subject, though I know that we've discussed this before.
            >
            > I have a person with a 35" in draw, that needs to splice arrows.
            I know that
            > the front end wood should be denser than the back section, but
            I couldn't
            > find whether we should just add the 5" or maybe longer, and
            whether a
            > dovetail splice, straight splice or a miter? would be best, and
            how to use
            > the clamp to make sure the shaft is straight.
            > Which woods does everyone think is best to use in this
            project? And which
            > splice do you prefer?
            >
            > And yes, I've measured several times to make sure of the
            length. He anchors
            > at his mouth to lessen the length. He's had friends make him
            bows, which are
            > 40#, but his pull length takes them up to 50#. (He's had his
            friends measure
            > that also).
            > Which leads to the second question. Do we spline the arrow
            for 40, 45 of 50
            > poundage?
            >
            > Roewynne




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