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building bows

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  • Bernard Arnest
    Hi, I ve looked at those books... if they aren t specifically on modern take-down recurves then I won t rush into ordering them, but I definitely will get them
    Message 1 of 1 , Feb 22, 2004
      I've looked at those books... if they aren't specifically on modern
      take-down recurves then I won't rush into ordering them, but I
      definitely will get them for knowledge of principles that could be
      reapplied to fiberglass bows, or read them just for the knowledge

      Last night I nearly finished shaping the riser, it's fun! I don't
      have a drum sander (oscillating spindle sanders are too expensive just
      now), but the 1" belt sander with an 80 grit belt did a good job. A
      little refining yet on the belt sander, then I'll work it by hand down
      to 320 grit. Before I apply any polyurethane, it's probably a good
      idea to get the limbs finished first, because they have to be shaped
      to match the riser, even if it is take down and they come off.

      The thickness sander won't be done for two weeks, and the limbs are
      dependent upon it, so in the meantime I'll just shape a few more
      risers just for fun and practice. Umm, could I get away with gluing
      up 2 1" layers? Most woods with only 3-4 exceptions are 7/8 or less
      at my local supplier. I could insert a veneer stripe, but most
      veneers are 1/40"; or resaw and plane a 1/8" thick stripe down the
      center. I'm not worried about strength, the glue should hold and the
      stress isn't on the glue anyway; I'm concerned about style if it will
      look ok or even attractive to have two layers with varying grain
      lines. For laminating up curved sections for a unique riser design, I
      think I'll try using the scroll saw. Cleaner and more controllable
      than a bandsaw, hopefully I'll get a close match; but it'll be tough.
      Or I could stack and cut both thicknesses at once, but then I'd have
      to do it on the bandsaw and that would leave a rough cut that will
      need to be sanded, a cut that might very well not line up then. If
      anyone who has tried it has another suggestion, please let me know.

      For the fiberglass I intend to by unidirectional cloth by the yard
      and laminate it myself, 5 thicknesses will do it according to the
      representative at raka. Then the thickness sander to make it smooth.
      I'm sure that that's what they do at bingham, they're not selling
      float glass. They told me that their laminations were unidirectional,
      which means that it has to be a cloth. Unidirectional should be much
      smoother and less porous than standard bi-directional cloth, which is
      perhaps why they use it?

      The other thing I can do is build the press and heat box while
      waiting on the limbs (a friend is helping me build the sander, that's
      what I'm waiting for).

      So on a take down recurve, would the core be between teh single
      parallel and the single taper? Should I get .02" thick fiber? Or
      does anyone use thinner carbon fiber on the outside laminations, thin
      enough that it isn't too tough?

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