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Re: Need advice about crooked arrows

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  • Godwin fitzGilbert de Striguil
    ... -snip- ... -/snip- Well John, unfortunately you get what you pay for. I had all kinds of issues with arrows that I purchased, which is one of the reasons I
    Message 1 of 3 , Feb 22 10:27 AM
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      > Message: 7
      > Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2004 22:33:50 -0800
      > From: John Rossignol <giguette@...>
      > Subject: Need advice about crooked arrows
      >
      -snip-
      > They are very basic arrows, hence the low price.
      -/snip-

      Well John, unfortunately you get what you pay for.

      I had all kinds of issues with arrows that I purchased, which is one of
      the reasons I learned as quickly as possible to make my own. You can
      possibly straighten the ones you have with a "J" tool, or something
      similar. What it does is basically compress the wood on whatever side,
      so that you modify the grain a little bit and straighten the arrow out.

      I would advise against buying 'cheap' arrows from somewhere other than
      local.


      -snip-
      >
      > 1. First, a reality check. Is it unrealistic of me to expect straight
      > shafts in arrows that only cost $3.75 each?

      No. I have heard of several folks who make arrows, and provide fairly
      good straight shafts for about the same price you paid. I'll look up the
      names and numbers.


      > I know that $45/dozen is a fairly cheap price for wooden arrows. Most
      > of the ones I have seen offered were $84-$120/dozen, but on the other
      > hand they were "decorative" or "period-style" arrows with ivory-
      > reinforced self-nocks, wrapped fletchings, special paint jobs, etc.
      > The ones I ordered are not fancy at all, and I assumed that was the
      > reason for the price difference.

      There is that, but more importantly is not what you see, but how the
      shafts were picked, spined and matched. Unless you put a special request
      in, you're shafts most likely will vary +- 5lbs in the spine department,
      and quite a bit more in the weight department.


      > After I notified the seller about the defects, he wrote back that these
      > were intended as "starter" arrows. However, there is nothing on his
      > website to indicate this. They are simply described as "cedar shaft
      > target arrows". There was also nothing in our phone conversation to
      > indicate that the arrows might not perform well "as is".
      >
      > Is it unreasonable of me to be a bit annoyed by this?

      Without 'knowing' exactly what you're getting into, you could be
      annoyed. If there were some of the cheapest shafts the site sells, you
      can be fairly sure, they are meant as 'starter' arrows. Although,
      'starter' arrows should be every bit as straight as you're favorites.
      Why? because giving a new archer bent and unreliable shafts is a sure
      way to get the person to not like archery.


      > 2. How hard is it to straighten wooden arrows? The seller briefly
      > described two methods:
      > 1) warm over steam and roll under the hand on counter top.
      > 2) compress the wood into shape by rubbing the outside of the
      > "bend".

      2.2 is done with that 'J' tool I mentioned above.


      > 3. Is a wooden arrow that has been straightened ever really as good as an
      > arrow that has never been crooked in the first place? In my
      > experience, once something gets bent it is almost impossible to get it
      > really straight, and it gets bent again, or breaks, easily.

      More than likely you will need to 'periodically restraighten' those
      shafts that you have straightened. It's high maintenance.


      > 4. Are "premium" arrows sometimes made with shafts that were not straight,
      > and are then straightened before sale? Or are they always made from
      > straight shafts?
      >
      > John Rossignol

      Speaking from my own personal experience in the arrows I have made, you
      start with a straight shaft. If you are making premium arrows, you sort
      through a large number (could be hundreds of shafts) to find those
      shafts that are:
      1. Straight
      2. Within 2lbs spine weight.
      3. Within 5 grains physical weight.

      Then you would proceed to process them into finished shafts.

      I started out with a single Jo-Jan fletching jig, some feathers, glue,
      points
      and pretty good shafts. Although the initial cost may seem large,
      what you wind up with very quickly is arrows that are better than those
      you just bought at the store, and maybe 50cents to a buck cheaper, per
      arrow.

      Godwin
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