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Re: [SCA-Archery] Crossbows

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  • Siegfried Sebastian Faust
    ... An excellent written paper Njall ... Mind if I make a few comments? (Well, I m going to make them anyway, so I hope you don t mind) ... Actually, they
    Message 1 of 20 , Jan 21, 2004
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      At 11:25 AM 1/21/2004, Scott Jaqua wrote:
      >I'll donate what little knowledge I have on this topic.
      >For a paper on the building of shorter, two fletch bolts, the how and why I
      >do it, please check out the following page on my web site.
      >Njall Olaf Hagerson

      An excellent written paper Njall ...

      Mind if I make a few comments? (Well, I'm going to make them anyway, so I
      hope you don't mind)

      >2) Crossbows by definition are center shot. So issues of arrow spine, do
      >not effect crossbow bolts.

      Actually, they aren't center shot. Or if they are, they are illegal by SCA
      standards. They however, due to their shorter bolt length, shorter draw,
      and having a track/guide, simply don't mind spine nearly as much ...

      AS LONG AS, there is enough spine to keep the bolt from flexing, at all ...
      you want them solid. If someone was to make 28" bolts for their crossbow,
      they would start having to worry about spine.

      There is also the fact that the stiffness of the shaft increases as you cut
      it shorter ... at the shortness that bolts are cut (especially short
      bolts), they are extremely 'high spined'

      Personally, I always recommend buying the highest weighed spine shafts for
      your diameter ... at least a 'goodly spined' group. It never hurts.

      >The balance point can be almost anywhere, so long as it is forward of the
      >center of drag.

      I've actually found that with many crossbows, the farther forward the
      balance point, the better. Making it become more of a bullet with a
      streamer behind it in flight ... I use 165gr tips on my 11/32 :)

      >Select the lightest premium grade 5/16 shafts you can find.

      Just a note that 5/16 doesn't work for all crossbows ... some prefer 11/32
      or thicker ... YCMMV (Your Crossbow Mileage May Vary) Plus you can get
      heavier points for the 11/32, making potentially even more point heavy bolts.

      >If in cutting the point taper, you remove too much wood, toss the shaft in
      >the trash.
      >Don't be afraid to toss any bolts that still fall out of the group.

      I never recommend throwing any bolts into the trash. Keep them for the
      'over water' shoots, the 'target hidden between 3 rocks' shoots and the 'no
      backdrop, just miles of thorns if you miss' shoots. While that little bit
      of weight difference may affect getting 6 golds at 30yds as opposed to 3
      golds 3reds ... it doesn't matter that much when the target is a foam deer,
      and it's better to use the 'bad' bolts that you don't mind loosing.

      >However, if you spin the bolt too much you create excess drag. A slow bolt
      >is much more effected by cross winds and such.

      True ... but I'd personally rather have a very stable, heavy, long bolt
      that fires consistantly, than a 'fast' one, that might have other problems.

      I always err on the side of stability, which is why I go for longer bolts,
      with HEAVY tips, and a good strong fletch angle.


      THL Siegfried Sebastian Faust http://crossbows.biz/
      Barony of Highland Foorde Baronial Web Minister & Archery Marshal
      Kingdom of Atlantia Deputy Kingdom Earl Marshal for Target Archery
      http://highland-foorde.atlantia.sca.org/ http://archery.atlantia.sca.org/
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